msawdey44 Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 From time to time I get delusions about putting power steering on my '50 Wayfarer--I don't mind the exercise, but the slowness is a bit of a drag. Has anyone had experience in installing power rack and pinion in the older Mopars? Fatman Fabrications has a kit for this, to use the 89-96 Cavalier power rack (link: http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=20). As their catalog notes, they have a specific kit for '46-'48, and a some-assembly-required version for '39-'53. When I e-mailed to ask what this meant, the answer was "better call and talk to us," which I haven't yet done, though it makes me think that some further fabrication may be involved. Anyway, has anyone had experience with these kits, or with otherwise adapting power racks in to the Mopars? ALSO, once a rack is in place, how does one handle the pump pulley situation--on mine the pulleys and belts are the old, wide variety. Is there a power steering pump lurking out there that has a wide pulley, say from a tractor or a heavy truck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 the Dodge application was a fixed setup for that size frame and as the frames are similar to the the Plymouth and I would guess they did not have aPlymouth at the time to compare, the grinding of the mounting brackets to fit the subtle curve difference is necessary for the affixing to the Plymouth chassis..other than that the install will be similar..the tie rod ends are many and vaired as I have now heard about 3 different models to chose from..the later ones do not use a stand off washer for drawing the taper in place nor use of a conical spacer to be inserted. The bending of the steering links from the spindle is crucial to ensure the alignment to the rack and pinion centerline both horizional and vertical position..this is the main focal point for bump steer elimination and as I have read..this would account for about all normal driving..it did make a slight reference to a heavy bump could still cause some negative effect. The instructions from Fatman cover this as the rack MUST be properly mounted in regard to the inner pivot of the lower control arm and the steering is thus altered to meet this position... IF you decide this is the way you wish to go..do get another donor set of steering links or you can buy these already fabricated from Plydo this way should you decide to return to stock..you can do so..however along the same line of thinking and really seldom mentioned is the steering column..your's will need be cut and altered thus get a spare here or upgrade to a aftermarket or later model shorter scolumn...I find the early 90's Moapr front wheel drive columns ideal. As with any and all modifications..they are just not cut and dry and totally reversable...study this hard and be sure of the direction you want to go...staying stock steering wheel and column position and yes they do stick a tad further into the compartment and your chest compared to modern columns will require a cut, insert bush/bearing and grafting of a splined/D-joint to make use of the Borgeson joint..on an added note..this is already in use with the Mopar column I mentioned above.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted September 6, 2009 Report Share Posted September 6, 2009 Here is a link to another forum with what might provide the best and easiest front suspension and steering up grade ever. Uses the bolt off aluminum crossmember suspension and steering from 03 and newer Crown Vic and Marquis. These ar aluminum forgings that even contain the power Rack and Pinion set up as a piece. 12 inch discs to boot and with the MOPAR friendly wheel pattern. might be a bit wide at 64 inchec but maybe no with offset wheels like from anFWD car. Fellow sayh he got a 5 inlowereing out of the deal, but might be able to mount it under the frame if not wanting that much drop. I am loking at this for the Studebaker truck down the road but gotta take some measurments. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/716058-buildup-06-crown-vic-front-suspension-into-67-f100.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopt50wgn Posted September 24, 2009 Report Share Posted September 24, 2009 I had the fatman steering on my 50 Plymouth when I bought the car. It was a nice setup except for the fact that the steering (tie rods) sat very low , almost too low. I sold the control arms and spindles and got a whole Fatman stub for mine. Like the guy said.....I would call them before you buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtw3749c Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 There is/was a post about how one guy did it. I'll see if I can locate it again, as my son wants to do that to his 48 DeSoto. Only thing is, I had a major computer crash (power supply and mother board) so it may take me a little time to find it. My hard drive was saved, but it cannot be cloned to the new computer hard drive, so it's hunt and search through old files. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted October 15, 2009 Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 I'm installing one of Fatman's setups on my 48 Plymouth as we speak; I've got the dropped spindles and disc brakes on but I need to pick up the tie rods for the rack so i can locate the frame brackets in the right place. I'll let you know how it comes out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 16, 2009 Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 don't forget that the Chrysler LH platform cars got the same TRW R&P as the Cavalier except it is forward located....you can source them for tie rod ends also.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted October 16, 2009 Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 Good advice, Tim. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted October 18, 2009 Report Share Posted October 18, 2009 don't forget that the Chrysler LH platform cars got the same TRW R&P as the Cavalier except it is forward located....you can source them for tie rod ends also.. Tim, can you also use the dakota RnP by itself? One more, is manual RnP sufficent with our large steering wheel leverage? I would like to get rid of the stock steering setup but not so keen on adding pwr steering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 (edited) the Dakota is also a forward mounted rack so a no-go....now I guess I best add this..if you wish to change a lot of stuff around yeah..it could be done..but it is smiply put..whole lots of work and effort when there is an easier proven method.. Edited October 20, 2009 by Tim Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 Good to know! Thank you Mr. Mannington:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msawdey44 Posted October 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2009 My '50 Dodge has the wide belts/pulleys--any thoughts on the best way to fire up the power steering pump? Somewhere I got an inkling that some mid-80s AMC products used a wide belt (4 cyl jeeps?) and thus might be a possibility, but I haven't been able to confirm this. Wide belts are still used on heavy trucks (I generally order my replacements from Ryder), so is that a possibility? Or is there a narrow-groove, preferably multi-groove, crankshaft pulley that can be put on the '50 engine? When I've cursorily (that is, cursing about issues of interchangeability) examined my crankshaft pulley, and one on a '55 Plymouth flathead, there doesn't seem to be much similarity in the way they attach, but maybe I'm overlooking a deeper compatibility (no philosophy where none intended). One solution that presented itself is the electric power steering pump from a Toyota MR2, but it looks like the current draw can be very high unless one manages to get a vehicle speed sensor mounted somewhere to provide pulses to the built-in computer that reduces pressure as speed increases. Anyway, how does one handle the pump issue in these conversions? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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