55 Fargo Posted May 13, 2009 Report Posted May 13, 2009 (edited) Hi all, went and bought the paint for my car finally:rolleyes:. I finally settled on a High Gloss Synthetic Industrial Enamel, it is much like the OEM paint, if left outside would need a maintenance to retain it's shine. My car sits indoors when not in use, so will help the fading out too quick problems. The color is Platunum Grey, much like OEM Dove Gray, I was set to go blue then changed my mind. I was at work the other day, and in our staff gym, they just painted the walls a beige type color, it used to be pumpkin orange.The first thing that occurred to me, was all the rough spots on these walls were much more concealed to the eye, they did not jump out as they did with a darker color like orange. So I figured, maybe I better go lighter with the old 47, my bodywork is only amateur, and I AM NOT GETTING ANYONE TO FINISH OR TWEAK MY CAR, so I thought I would go lighter to conceal a little more. The platinum grey looks great with the dark blue dash, and window garnish trim, the seats will eventually be a grey cloth as well as my door panels and head liner, so it will be a nice contrast with the dark blue. I have a couple of days prepping then will set up my shop for painting. The paint was very cheap, $42.00:) for the gallon, which is contractors/wholesale price, it would normally retail about $65.00, I bought 2 quarts of dupont enamel reducer for $20. I do have a pint of Evercoat DOI Wetlook Hardener, but the gent I bought this paint from said not use it:(, he said it may work fine, but it will not crosslink with the paints synthetic resin. I am leary not using any hardener, as it is shinier,harder,cures faster, when added. This paint has a gloss level of 93 @60 degrees, which is very shiny:).....Fred Edited May 13, 2009 by Rockwood Quote
dezeldoc Posted May 13, 2009 Report Posted May 13, 2009 That paint is not good for a car, great if you want to paint light poles or sheds, my buddy painted his 62 plymouth in it and he is crying now as it last about a month then goes flat, he keeps it in his shop out of the sun but it still dies. if you are going to use it do a test piece and try the hardner and see what happens my bet is it will work fine. without it will take a while to dry. Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Posted May 13, 2009 (edited) Not true, maybe where you live, this stuff does quite well in the northern sun. I have a trunk lid that has been out side with rusto paint and hardner, it's out 7-24, and is just as shiny as when I sprayed it a year ago. This stuff is not friggin hardware store paint, it dries in to the touch in 20 minutes at 70 f, and is hard dry in 1 to 2 hours,is much like Nason or Omni Acrylic enamel, probably better, has great reistance to chemicals, excellent reilience to sun, and is very very shiny. What is with so many guys, and I don't just mean you Dezeldoc, when anyone wants to use anything but SS urethane or BC/CC, then what ver else a guy want to use , is inferior garbage. Now I realize that the southern sun is far more damaging than the northern sun, but my car will not be parked out on some black top parking lot 7-24. Anything with paint on it, up north here will last 10 times longer than down south........... Edited May 13, 2009 by Rockwood Quote
dezeldoc Posted May 13, 2009 Report Posted May 13, 2009 (edited) Not true, maybe where you live, this stuff does quite well in the northern sun. I have a trunk lid that has been out side with rusto paint and hardner, it's out 7-24, and is just as shiny as when I sprayed it a year ago.This stuff is not friggin hardware store paint, it dries in to the touch in 20 minutes at 70 f, and is hard dry in 1 to 2 hours,is much like Nason or Omni Acrylic enamel, probably better, has great reistance to chemicals, excellent reilience to sun, and is very very shiny. What is with so many guys, and I don't just mean you Dezeldoc, when anyone wants to use anything but SS urethane or BC/CC, then what ver else a guy want to use , is inferior garbage. Now I realize that the southern sun is far more damaging than the northern sun, but my car will not be parked out on some black top parking lot 7-24. Anything with paint on it, up north here will last 10 times longer than down south........... That is the key right there! that is why i said to test it with the hardner! i don't care if you paint it with a brush and latex paint it's your car. i just don't like to see people put a bunch of time into bodywork and then throw the wrong paint on it. you can get good auto paint from many places and not pay over 150 for the whole set up. mine on my 50 cost me 170 for everything, do i use this paint often? no! most of the paint i use cost over 600 but right now i don't have a bunch of $$ to spend on paint so i used the cheap stuff and so far it is working great. Edited May 14, 2009 by dezeldoc Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 13, 2009 Report Posted May 13, 2009 not everyone has the money to shell out for mega dollar paint jobs..others just want to do their own work and again sometimes that is also with restricted budget...and I do not see Fred cutting into anyones profits by stealing away work..lets be supportive..give him the opportunity to do this job without negatives..if there be negatives..I know that Fred will report back that the job was not as expected and advise against others following his lead if it does indeed turn out that way. I have myself never top coated a vehicle with this paint but for frames, inner fenders etc with the catalyst and automotive quality reducers..excellent extremely durable finish..beats high dollar paints on hold out and chips... I would take this process over Nason any day of the week...now that stuff is worse than the over the counter hardware store variety paint.. Quote
dezeldoc Posted May 13, 2009 Report Posted May 13, 2009 Nason and Acme both junk! shot 1 car years ago with each and they were by far the worst i had ever shot. my response was about using the hardner, without it it has no holdout and slow dry time. Fred is a good guy and i don't want to see him end up with a mess after all the time he has put into the car. no flame intended. Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Posted May 13, 2009 You guys will get a full report and pics of the results of this paint job. My expectations are not super high, but I expect a failry decent quailty, shine etc. I will be very candid on any negatives and/or shortcomings with this product. I hope to be on this forum a long time, and will be forthright on any degradation of the paint product on my car. My budget is tight, as was mentioned, if I could this car may very well be sent in for a paint job. The truith is this, although I have enboyed the process, I am not interested in doing a lot of body and paint, the fumes, from painting, the ISOs from catalyst/hardeners, spook me to be honest. I have used this alkyd type of enamel a number of times over the last few years with success. I have heard it stated, these cheaper paints can sometimes be just as good as the entry level paint fromt eh big companies like Dupont or PPG........Thanx Guys Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 13, 2009 Report Posted May 13, 2009 Acme paint was at one time a very high end paint..I have used this paint in the past on a very high dollar British car with excellent results. The Acme at the time was the only paint on the market with a true BRG paint...thus the application of said product. Most all shops will have their favorite system..most are dictated by the jobbers price to the said shop...Dezeldoc..I know you wee not flaming Fred..only I think we should sit back and see what gives..the paint he is using is fast becoming known for its gloss and duarability in one very harsh enviroment... Quote
dezeldoc Posted May 13, 2009 Report Posted May 13, 2009 Agreed!! sorry fred just don't want to see you unhappy! Quote
JerseyHarold Posted May 13, 2009 Report Posted May 13, 2009 On another note..... Light gray is an excellent color for the car. The fact that it will hide some blemishes is a bonus. When I worked for a large homebuilder, we painted all the houses with a very light tan paint to disguise the not-so-great drywall work. Quote
steveplym Posted May 14, 2009 Report Posted May 14, 2009 Keep at it Fred looks like you are getting everything ready. I'd try the hardener definitely. Will make it look better. I've personally had good luck with Nason single stage enamel. Used Acme about 10 years ago and had really good results. One thing about it Fred, if it fades out, or just doesn't look right it is better than just being in primer. Primer doesn't seal out moisture, so that can get in and damage your body work. You can always repaint it if needed and your only out $42 bucks. Can't wait to see how it turns out. Good luck! Quote
Normspeed Posted May 14, 2009 Report Posted May 14, 2009 Keep at it Fred, the car has come a long way with your help and it's already a head turner. I think you are your own worst critic! Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Posted May 14, 2009 Hi all, mixed the paint with Dupont Medium Speed enamel reducer, and Evercoats DOI Wet Look Acrylic Enamel Hardener. The ratio was approx in parts per 8-3-1. This proved to be a tad too thick, as I laid on a tack coat, followed by a heavier coat, this coat was a bit cloudy. I let this coat flash, sprayed on a nice full wetcoat, the paint glossed up, but I got a little peel and 1 run. This paint dries fairly quickly, I,likes the color, it is a good hide color thats for sure. This paint is super glossy, and smooth, I did get a little peel, but thats my fault, should have thinned the paint a little more, and I had a gut feeling it was too thick. The paint is every bit as shiny as any acrylic enamel paint I have ever seen, and it will get glossier by tomorrow, as the enamel lies down more. I will have to wetsand this door, and recoat, beacuse of the peel, but who cares, no big deal. I do not have my camera at my disposal, or would post pics. Thsi paint is much glossier than Tremclad(Rustoleum in Canada). The test will be how it does in the coming weeks..............Fred Quote
RobertKB Posted May 14, 2009 Report Posted May 14, 2009 Fred, we are all looking forward to some pictures. It is great to see that you have actually reached the paint stage. Good luck! Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Posted May 14, 2009 Well Robert I still have a little more prep work, but I had the doors already done, so like a kid, I just had to try out the paint..........Fred Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 15, 2009 Author Report Posted May 15, 2009 (edited) The painted product. Slight peel , this was my fault, paint should have been reduced more, and when I spraying the 3rd coat tried to wet it down more, and got a wee bit of peel, otherwise the gloss would be like a mirror, it is very shiny and smooth, a slight blur in relfection. This a light color, and wetsanding and polish will correct this door, or I may wetsand and repaint. Now I can get everything ready for final paint, andwill do car in sections, with car altogether...........very happy with the results, these pics are dry paint, the wet look ecrylic enamel hardener no doubt has helped... ps looks almost the color of Jons coupe PSS these pics are blurred, and have been reduced, these doors are supershiny, but these pics are not showing it Edited May 15, 2009 by Rockwood Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 15, 2009 Author Report Posted May 15, 2009 My paint combo, and another pic of the door from the back angle. Quote
40phil41 Posted May 15, 2009 Report Posted May 15, 2009 Fred, Your results look good to me from the photos. Can't wait to see the whole car done and sitting out in the sunshine :-) Good luck. Phil Quote
dezeldoc Posted May 15, 2009 Report Posted May 15, 2009 Fred, at the paint store you should be able to pick up a viscosity meter, it is a cheap litttle tool that you fill with your mixed paint then time how long it takes to drain out and will tell you if the mix is right, kinda takes some of the guess work out of mixing. on the run when you sand it use a paint stick and wrap the paper around it and sand with that, it will hit the high on the run and keep it off the low so it should sand flat. use your fingernail and make sure the run is hard before you try and sand it. if you see a run happening you can take a piece of masking tape (longer than the run) and kinda of lightly put it over the run and pull it off then let it tack and recoat it. glad to see you used the hardner. keep at it it is going to look good! I did some checking on that brand of paint you used vs the paint my buddy used and it looks to be a much better paint than what he used. Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 15, 2009 Author Report Posted May 15, 2009 Thanx Dezeldoc, the paint company doesn' sell any ford or any other viscosity cups. Its a very commercial industrial paint place. Most of the stock is in 5 gallon or even 55 gallon drums. There spec on spraying is to thin 10 % with xylene, then spray with a fluid tip E, which is a 1.7 or 1.8, of course meant for good coverage and industrial applications. I had to thin it much more than this, but did not quite thin it enough. Maybe it's time for me to learn to use the viscosity cup to get it right........Fred Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 15, 2009 Author Report Posted May 15, 2009 Fred,Your results look good to me from the photos. Can't wait to see the whole car done and sitting out in the sunshine :-) Good luck. Phil Thanx Phil, hopefully by mid June.... Quote
dezeldoc Posted May 15, 2009 Report Posted May 15, 2009 Fred, did it spray like auto paint or was everything around it sticky? i got to thinking and about 25yrs ago i shot some equipment at a machine shop and used some kind of industrial paint they had and everything was sticky including me. but when it was dry it was tough as nails. Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 16, 2009 Author Report Posted May 16, 2009 No, it isn't quite like that, but Rusto and Trewmclad can be laike that kinda sticky overspray, as the paint flashes and dries slow. This stuff is more like auto enamel, dires fairly quick. I also am using an HVLP spray gun, mind you I turn up the air a bit for better atomization. I would not even use these HVLP guns in a hoe shop, but my compressor is smaller, and might not keep up to some of the conventional spray guns. But to be honest, doing a liitle tiny bit of spray painting at home, might as well have a gun that can really lay it on, HVLP guns have there place, because of the reduced overspray, but at home doing 1 car, it isn't really necessary. Unless I am spraying a heavily populated residential type neighbourhood, where any control of overspray is an issue. I am still undecided whether to paint the whole car, or tape and mask, and do sections, would like to do it all in 1 day if possible. The reason for this , I have kids at home, a super busy schedule, and live in the country with tons of yard work to begin soon... Quote
dezeldoc Posted May 16, 2009 Report Posted May 16, 2009 Go for the whole thing at one time if you can swing it. one mess, one time! then when it is done it is done. Quote
RobertKB Posted May 16, 2009 Report Posted May 16, 2009 Go for the whole thing at one time if you can swing it. one mess, one time! then when it is done it is done. Although I am not a painter, this makes good sense to me. Once it is done it is done and you can then pick away at putting the trim, bumpers, etc. back on. You can even enjoy driving it again! We are all looking forward to seeing the finished product! Quote
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