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locking the doors on my 53, NOT


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just saw another thread and the guy mentioned his door only locks from the passenger side, and saw a response about how they were made that way for "off traffic' side safety.

Anyways,

my 53 has zero provision for locking the doors, did the job rated trucks even come with locks and if so, how did they do it? I always thought it was stripped down model from the factory, no heater, defrost at all, no locks, very basic truck.

My doors have no holes in them and the handles are lock free also.

so, that being said, how do I lock this critter up?

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It should have had the lock on the passenger door. Heater/defroster was an option, and often times they got aftermarket units.

On your driver's door try lifting the inside handle so that it detents into a horizontal position. If it does, that's the lock position. I believe the passenger door latch would lock the same way, but there's no way to do that from the outside. Maybe someone removed the lock assembly and filled the hole?

Merle

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It should have had the lock on the passenger door. Heater/defroster was an option, and often times they got aftermarket units.

On your driver's door try lifting the inside handle so that it detents into a horizontal position. If it does, that's the lock position. I believe the passenger door latch would lock the same way, but there's no way to do that from the outside. Maybe someone removed the lock assembly and filled the hole?

Merle

You can do it if you have vent windows. That's my poor mans door locks I used for quite a while on my plymouth. Just push the vent closed when you are done and it looks locked

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It should have had the lock on the passenger door. Heater/defroster was an option, and often times they got aftermarket units.

On your driver's door try lifting the inside handle so that it detents into a horizontal position. If it does, that's the lock position. I believe the passenger door latch would lock the same way, but there's no way to do that from the outside. Maybe someone removed the lock assembly and filled the hole?

Merle

but if it detents and locks, how am I gonna get back into it w/o a lock cylinder?

I guess I could always leave the vent window unlocked and reach in like my buddy does his 55 plymouth w/ shaved handles.

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Ssssshhhh don't let the secret out. The 50 coupe Dad sold a couple weeks back was the same way. Some customized it way back and thats all it ever had for locks

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Hi from Australia, dont know about lifting the handle to lock it as the passenger side has an extended piece that slides a bar up and prevents the door latch from opening.The drivers side does not. I will have to try your option but looking at the lock out of the door cannot see how it could work. My 49 was made in Canada and assembled here so maybe it is different? All said if you guys are right it will save me some trouble as you can lock the drivers door, get out passenger side and lock with key and re-enter the same way. Looking for a complete rubber kit, glass, windlacing etc. whole box and dice. I found a site Roberts rubber but saw a forum somewhere that said they don`t fit well. Any help guys? Jack

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Hi from Australia, dont know about lifting the handle to lock it as the passenger side has an extended piece that slides a bar up and prevents the door latch from opening.The drivers side does not. I will have to try your option but looking at the lock out of the door cannot see how it could work. My 49 was made in Canada and assembled here so maybe it is different? All said if you guys are right it will save me some trouble as you can lock the drivers door, get out passenger side and lock with key and re-enter the same way. Looking for a complete rubber kit, glass, windlacing etc. whole box and dice. I found a site Roberts rubber but saw a forum somewhere that said they don`t fit well. Any help guys? Jack

hello from Texas, send me an Aussie beer and I'll send you some Texas Shiner....yummy stuff.

back on subject now, Both of my doors "detent" downward for locking from the inside.

also, I have bought the pre-fab, so called factory replacement rubber from Roberts, it did seem to small, so I ordered a "generic set up from Roberts and its just looks to hokey to me, so the first "original replacement" rubber will have to be stretched to fit, it looks like it will work, just seems small and might be a bitch to get right. My buddy said it needs to sit in the sun for a good while to get "hot" then install. I'm going to try that approach.

I am planning on having someone show up and do the glass install next week, I'll update as soon as I know for sure.

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The right side - passanger's side - door latch units have a square hole for the lock stem to fit into and to actuate the lock mechanism. If your right latch has this feature, likely someone has removed the outside lock unit.

Rubber parts from either Burn Bumm or Roberts are a joke, IMHO. I have about a full set of their stuff laying around here, and it's mostly useless. These guys sell both car and truck parts, and simply expect that what fits one will fit the other. When it comes to returns or adjustments for parts that don' work or fit, they do not understand these words.

Taie for esample, cowl vent gaskets. The stuff they sell simply will not fit. Vintage Power Wagon sells this material by the foot. You just glue it into place and put the seam at the back. It works perfectly. I've never heard a bad word on this forum about Steele Rubber or Clesters. They both seem to have good products.

In point of fact, I will go on record by saying both of these fellers have bedside manners that totally lack gravity. I'll buy anywhere else before I spend any more of my money in Massachusetts with either of these men.

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After all this talk of door locks I went playing with the 46. Can anyone tell me where to start looking if the door won't lock when using the handle from the inside? I push it to the lock position but it still opens from the outside

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