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Looks like a Langdon's HEI Dizzy and Coil on Epay


greg g

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I'll be going that route when I get to that stage on the Chrysler, but I think I will buy right from Tom. If I have some issues, I'd like to be able to get some help. $150 isn't much of a saving over buying new and getting some customer service if needed.

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Are these really the same for both 23 and 25" engines? I want to install one in my 52 1/2 ton with the 251.

What spark plug wires are recommended?:confused:

Yes, the one distributor works for both. You can't see it in the photo, but the bracket that bolts to the block is moveable, and the instructions tell you to match the height of your old distributor.

He doesn't recommend a sparkplug, just recommends opening up the plug gap.

Marty

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What spark plug wires are recommended? Are these units reliable on the flatties? Does it come with only 1 type of vacuum advance or does Langdon match it to your engine?

There is no reference to plug wires in the instructions I have, but I would say a good spiral-wound suppression wire would be a good idea. I can't speak to reliability personally, because I haven't installed mine yet!

He does recommend that you set it with an initial timing of 10-18 degrees BTDC (without vaccum advance connected), and that you use the ported vacuum for mild engines and full vacuum for performance cams. He doesn't say what the advance specs are. He does say that the unit is based on a 1982-84 GM 2.8L "S" truck distributor, if you feel like researching it.

Marty

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  • 12 years later...
On 10/26/2006 at 8:52 PM, martybose said:

There is no reference to plug wires in the instructions I have, but I would say a good spiral-wound suppression wire would be a good idea. I can't speak to reliability personally, because I haven't installed mine yet!

He does recommend that you set it with an initial timing of 10-18 degrees BTDC (without vaccum advance connected), and that you use the ported vacuum for mild engines and full vacuum for performance cams. He doesn't say what the advance specs are. He does say that the unit is based on a 1982-84 GM 2.8L "S" truck distributor, if you feel like researching it.

Marty

Digging up this really old thread.  When you say ported vacuum or full vacuum, what do you mean?  What's the difference between the two and how to do I hook up to either one?

 

Thanks,

 

Matt

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Ported vacuum has the line to the distributor hooked to the carb. in a place where vacuum varies from 0 hg at normal idle about 5-700 rpms. and changes vacuum as the throttle position is changed.  Where as full vacuum is hooked direct to the intake manifold will be near max vacuum at idle and close to that full at light throttle positions, and way low at full throttle .

 

The timing specs martybose -a while back -posted will be most likely be way to high for a Mopar flattie! The specs he was using was for the GM motor in a "S" truck which is what the distributor started life in, modified to fit in the early Mopar flatties.

 

Making any sense??

 

DJ

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Yes, I think that's making sense.  In other words, the difference between ported and full vacuum is the difference between the vacuum source above the throttle plate vs. below the throttle plate.  My engine will be set up with dual carbs, headers, and a custom cam, although nothing outrageous, so I'm not sure if it would really fall into the "performance" category or not.  I guess I can try the vacuum advance either way and see which way I like best.

 

And, yes, I thought the amount of timing advance listed was awfully far advanced.  I'll try something less than that when the time comes.

 

Thanks for the reply!

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