Spray Paintguns OT

[Young Ed]

Bob there are already companys and cars painted with water based paint.

[BobT-47P15]

Yea, I know. Some of the early stuff didn't hold up very well.

Reckon the current stuff is improved.

[55 Fargo]

Bob there are already companys and cars painted with water based paint.

There are lots of places here doing waterbourne base coats already, even small town shops. The Clears are the same old 2 K Urethane types to the best of my knowledge.

Being water based does not mean toxic free for the people using it, just a different animal, even this technology will no doubt change into the future. I am going with plain old acrylic enamel, or straight enamel. My car will be in the garage a lot and not winter driven, Enamel should last me a long time that way.

Urethane paints last a lot longer, have a way better gloss retention, but having said that, they will also fade in the Arizona sunshine........Fred

[Jim Yergin]

I think Jim Yergin did his car in lacquer paint. Check with him.

I did do mine in lacquer. It is what my dad taught me to use and my minimal skill level required the ability to wet sand my mistakes. However, my supplier stopped selling it years ago because of environmental restrictions. I bought two gallons of it just before they stopped carrying it. I believe it is still available over the internet.

Jim Yergin

[steveplym]

Lacquer is good paint to start out with. My car was a lacquer paint job, but after 20 years or so it started to crack. I think that single stage enamel is better than lacquer, but it is all about what you prefer.

Frank, I'm not sure what you mean by enamel being un retouchable. I assume you mean that you can't blend the color into the panel if you get a small dent, etc. I've touched up my single stage paint jobs with a matchbook stick, can hardly tell it's there if you get up close. Then you can sand it with 1500 and rub it out. Can't tell there was even a chip or scratch.

Now if you have a pretty good dent in it you would have to paint the entire panel as it will not blend like basecoat/clearcoat would. Unless it is a large panel that should not be too much of a hassle. Even with lacquer I would suggest painting the whole panel so it would match correctly. If not you will see a line where you stopped painting on that panel. With basecoat and clearcoat you could blend in your base over you repaired area and then you would still have to clear the whole panel to make it right.

[Frank Blackstone]

You have given me good information with which to make a decision. Even though I can get lacquer at the local PPG store and it would be easier to spray I like the durability of the enamel which I have on my other rides. The color choice for the lacquer is much more limited. I will take all due precautions to be safe.

The un retouchability I was refering to was the large dent repair. I am glad it is possible. I guess I needed Coatney to translate my words to make my messages more clear. It's scary to think he knows how I think. Frank

[Frank Elder]

Maybe a couple of Coatneys to cover correctly, heheh!

[55 Fargo]

Here is a question for some of you more experienced with a paint gun like Tim Adams, Dezeldoc, and Steveplym.

On my 3 HVLP guns, when I have 40 psi showing at the regulator gauge on the paint gun handle, and I give the handle a sqeeze to allow the air to flow, and I get a 10 psi drop on the gauge, does that mea I have 10 psi out of the cap, is that how these guns should work?

[Plymouthy Adams]

no..that means that you dropped 10 PSI only...you will adjust your regualtor at the handle to equate the input as marked on the handle of your gun..I think you said 35 for laquer...45 for enamel..so when you pull the trigger to the first stop. air only..adjust the regulator on the gun to maintain the set input pressure..when you release it it will go back up but again when you pull the trigger to the first step it will clear the gun and drop to the preset pressure prior to the second step on the trigger where you will atomize the paint..again..this set inlet pressure is the guaranteed nozzle pressure of 10 PSI as mandated for a HVLP gun...this low pressure is the factor that prevent paint bounce...the high supply of 100 PSI at the input of the regulator at the gun is you gurantee of high volume...I will add this..not all so called HVLP's are not truly HVLP guns..

[moparalltheway]

Put some paint in your gun and practice for what works best. Spray a old body panel or a large piece of cardboard. A good paint job is in the prep work. And most of all TAKE YOUR TIME! I have did some nice paint with a cheap gun from Walmart. Learn and know your gun. For spraying primer of any kind I use a gravity fed Campbell H. industrial type gun for farm use. Very cheap and inexpensive.