what car did my engine come out of?

[gmanmadera]

Come on you smart guys, everyone says this is the bible for finding information.

Is there no one that can help me?

I have a 1948 Dodge truck B-1 Series, I have ordered parts, for this truck some fit some don't. The engine I have, I believe is a 218 but out of a different vehicle. These are the numbers I have, stamped on the engine block between # 1 and # 2 cylinders is N249448 CAL. Still on the engine block below the starter are the #s 1119729-15. And on the engine head are the numbers D 1311804-1. Still other #s I see are stamped 49 12-22.

This is an example of my dilema, have ordered 4 different dipsticks and indicater tubes none fit all are to long. Getting expensive. How do I find out where my engine came from?

Thanks very much.

gmanmadera

ggarymartins@aol.com

559-673-6811

[Don Coatney]

The engine ID numbers are stamped in the engine block above the generator as pictured below.

[Don Coatney]

Do you live in Madera, CA?

[gmanmadera]

Don;

The #s I have stamped on my engine in that location are N249448 CAL, so what vehicle did this engine come out of?

I do live in Madera,CA.

[Don Coatney]

The numbers you posted are not familuar to me. Hopefully someone will chime in with a good ID.

I left Madera in 2000 and moved to Tennessee. I lived in Marera Ranchos 16638 Mark Avenue.

[pflaming]

I am also determining what I have. I only have TP 23 on the top marking place followed by a three bladed ax icon like often seen in British / Scottish battle axes, or it may be the liberty bell, cannot tell for certain. It came with an unattached eight hole fly wheel mount, but the inside mount is only four holes. If good, can it be used? The length of the engine head is 35".

[carl b51]

Well I have checked through a pile of paper and haven"t been able to fine a Chrysler block number that starts with N . But the 49-12-22 is December the 22nd 1949. Sorry

[Don Coatney]

The length of the engine head is 35".

Best measure again.

[PatS....]

Best measure again.

Could it be a straight eight?

[Frank Elder]

Pflaming, it may be a worn maltese cross, if it is it usually means a block has a higher nickle content in the iron, making it stronger and more desirable.

[pflaming]

Don I remeasured, length is 23". And tyes it is a maltese cross! So that's one good thing!!!

Today is the first time I have had to really look at this engine. (1) Nice and clean behind the valve covers though some slugh in the 'oil basins' that collect the oil. I did not disturb it, need to know the proper way to clean that out without getting into the system. (2) Very dry, maybe even rusty looking in the plug holes and after removing the manifolds in the intake holes, dry and 'rusty'. The flapper in the manifold is rusted shut! (3) Need big socket and wrench to see if the engine is frozen. It is NOT supposed to be. . . should I put something in the cylinders for a few days. THis engine has been idle for around five years.

Interesting project, don't have a clue how I would do this w/o this forum.

PF

[townwagon]

PF, the TP 23 motor is a 1960 Dodge truck 230.

The original engine asked about N249448 CAL sounds like a stamp put on by the state.

Normally that is a California stamp, N249448 is the number, CAL = California.

You most likely have a replacement block, and the engine was restamped with a state issued VIN for some reason. Is your door tag missing? The trucks I find with that sort of engine number normally are missing the door tag.

Either that or the vehicle the engine came out of was missing the VIN tag.

In any case you will have to figure this one out the hard way, comparing your engine accessories to others using pictures or something.

Things like dipsticks can be different for different applications, even if the actual block is much the same.

Maybe someone has a guide to the casting numbers of the block, but that will only help a little. You will most likely have to measure up this engine to find out more about it.

Sorry I could not give a more exact answer.

Eric

[pflaming]

townwagon

Member, been hanging around a while... Join Date: Oct 2006

Location: WI

PF, the TP 23 motor is a 1960 Dodge truck 230.

How does this block / engine compare to the standard engine which I removed a few weeks ago? Looking at all parts, it appears it will fit in, but what might I expect with a four (4) hole flywheel hub and an eight (8) wheel fly wheel? Get a different fly wheel?

Really appreciate the information.

PF

[greg g]

What transmission are you going to run?? The 8 bolt flys were for the fluid drive set up. The 4 bolts were for regular three speeds. Lots of permutatios here also. My 56 crank uses 6 fasteners. The 218 was a four bolt deal.

You could probably have the flywheel drilled for the extra bolts if you are running fluid drive.

For the "N" series engine, see if that number is the same as the ID number on your cars title or registration. Many states used the engine number for ID numbers for titling/reg purposes. So maybe the numbers are reflective of the original engine number but with the new alpha characters.

Also I read somewhere (likely on the all par site) that Chrysler sold new un numbered blocks to engine rebuilding companies. Places like Jasper, and Allstate (yep Sears and Roebuck) and others. they were supposed to stamp a number into the blocks when they got built, but obviously many didn't get stamped, because there are a lot of engines ut and about with no numbers on them. Also you may want to look for a riveted on tag somewhere onthe drivers side of the block, this would be a rebuilders tag that would reference a parts specification to be used when ordering replacements.

You said you have ordered parts that don't fit. On the short blocks not much was different besides cranks and rods, and some seals.

Have you measured your stroke to determine your engines displacement??

If not you can easily do so. On the head above #6 cylinder is a small square headed pipe plug. Removing this allows you to insert a piece of stif wire, and by rotating the engine, measure the length of the pistons movement in the cylinder. The plug is above the piston, and the wire will ride it. Just make sure the wire is at least 7 inches long. 4 3/8 = 218, 4 5/8 = 230.

Where is the dip stick, in the block or in the oil pan? If they are too long, you could just shorten one and add markings for the full and add marks.

On mine, a 56 engine, I am using the 46 dipstick, it goes directly into the hole in the block and does not use a tube.

[pflaming]

Greg, Thank you for the insights. With four extra holes, can I still use the flywheel? Will that effect the balance? I am going to use the existing three speed transmisson and keep things simple and stock. I hope it all fits, will try to loosely bolt it all together outside of the truck.

[greg g]

The holes are drilled so that the flywheel will mount only one wa to the crank. The 8 hole flywheel should bolt up o problem ot the crank when its alligned properly. I forgot to mention that my current flywheel (from the 56) is drilled with 8 holes. I am using the 6 that lined up to the crank.

[townwagon]

PF, what was original engine did you pull, or what did it come from? You may have pulled a 218, which would be less stroke, etc.

Eric

[pflaming]

I am guessing it was the less expensive, i.e., smaller 218 engine because of the three on the tree. The length is 23" as is my 'replacement. The engine was driven hot & the head removed so I haven't checked the serial numbers. From what I have learned, I will measure the bore and stroke and compare.Today I tried to rotate the replacement without success, so I poured in some tranny oil and will let it set for a bit, then try again. If that doesn't work, then I will get some bulk penetrating oil and . . . I may have bought the foundation to a new coral reef.

[pflaming]

The engine I pulled has: 23" head; Plate # is T306 *star* 6II2I(star); the block number on the lower side is 326229-36; the bore is 3 1/4"; the stroke (block depth, head is off" is 3 5/8". All measurements are =/- taken with a steel tape. When I get the replacement engine free I will measure the stroke on it. Maybe even remove the head and look inside.

[Merle Coggins]

T306 is a 218 CID Truck engine from a 51-53 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck.

[carl b51]

PF, pull the head clean out the rust , drop the pan and unhook the rods so you don't do any damage to the crank, drive the pistons out one at a time. now that you can see the inside all your questions will be answered . carl

[pflaming]

Carl, I did as you suggested, here is what I found. So I removed the piston rod from the crank and the engine was free. Then put a narrowed 2x4 in the piston hole and drove it down 1/3 inch. The bore is the same as the engine I took out, 3 5/8 bore and 3 1/2 stroke approximate so this engine is essentially the same as the one I removed.

The red liquid is tranny fluid, the head is upside down over the block; the valve pic shows the rest of the engine not bad. No sludge in pan and all the valves moved. Could turn the shaft easily with a 15" cresant once the stuck piston was disconnected. The 'bearing' sleave was smooth and no edge at the top of the cylinder sleave, so this engine must not have run that much.

Next? question: Is this worth salvaging? Seems the piston will have to come out, haven't figured that out yet, the the piston rheamed, the valve ground (professionally).

Think I will start looking for different engine. Any out there? I am an ex English teacher, works and ideas are exact but not like this. Never done anything like this before so . . .fun!