Disc brake conversion question...

[makkelsay]

i havent gotten their kit...

ive pieced everything together from the olddaddy kit

i dont even remember how much olddaddys kit is...

i can get the parts pretty cheap and already have most of them

just need spacers and brackets

[dezeldoc]

Brackets are pretty easy, if you look around you can find the bearings and won't need the spacers, try someone like motion industries or timikin.

[makkelsay]

Well i used the races from the outer bearing and they worked for a test but i wouldnt mind the spacers and brackets. I mean if scarebird sucks i wont buy em but i would rather not spend over 150 for brackets and spacers and i thought olddaddys kit was more expensive and ya had to drill out holes

[BeBop138]

Well i used the races from the outer bearing and they worked for a test but i wouldnt mind the spacers and brackets. I mean if scarebird sucks i wont buy em but i would rather not spend over 150 for brackets and spacers and i thought olddaddys kit was more expensive and ya had to drill out holes

Both kits are fine---I know Dez had trouble with Mark at Scarebird---he treated me well on my 52 Windsor----good luck with the conversion no matter which you choose...........Lee

[claybill]

I was going to instaLL P/DISC BRakes...I BOUGHT A HANGING PEDAL and bracket that would put the master cyl right thru the firewall ala chevy....

postponed the whole idea.

i have the hanging pedal/bracket for sale....from a 70'sbaracuda?? and nearly new GM dual m/c...$45.

$30 +ups....(less than my cost)

claybill

[Captain Neon]

Does any one sell a four wheel disc conversion kit that allows me to use my original master cylinder and stock wheels? Brake work may be in my future, and the conversion to disc should cost just a few more dollars with much better performance.

[55 Fargo]

Does any one sell a four wheel disc conversion kit that allows me to use my original master cylinder and stock wheels? Brake work may be in my future, and the conversion to disc should cost just a few more dollars with much better performance.

I thought ECI had a 4 wheel conversion kit for Old Mopars, but what others have recently gone through, think I would pass on ECI at the moment.

If and when I do the conversion, will do front discs, with Old Daddy's kit, stock MC, and residual valves, and that may be it........Fred

I know a lot of folks feel safer with the modern braking systems, and dual MCs. But for the record, without sounding cocky, how many on this forum have lost there brakes, using a stock MC, I know Coatney's MC failed, how about others. I am talking about stock brakes systems, or front disc brake conversions with stock MC, with all in good working condition........Fred

[Olddaddy]

This appears to be an old post that's popped back up to the top, so I am going to reply to bring things current. My Plymouth kit is $160 including shipping. My Dodge kit, which fits trucks and early Mopar cars with four hole spindles is $175 including shipping. I am currently working on a new kit that will convert Chrysler, DeSoto and Dodge cars using their original spindles eliminating the swap to Plymouth spindles. I expect to have it on sale for $160 by the end of October, or sooner. One small correction to info posted here, my kits are similar to the PlyDo kit, but they are not the same. My kit does not position the inner bearing on the spacer, it rides directly on the spindle. My brackets are laser cut to tight tolerances, not flame cut. My rotor is a Mopar 5 on 4 1/2" pattern, not a GM pattern. Nothing against the PlyDo kit, it does a very good job, but I prefer mine. My buddy Tony Urwin sent me pricing info on parts needed to do his conversion using my kit earlier today. These prices are current today, 9-18-10:

Napa - $286.83

Auto Zone - $245.14

Advance Auto - $236.83

O'Reilly - $134.69

For as little as $135 you can convert your car or truck using one of my kits.

Technically speaking you can simply do the conversion and drive your car. You can use the original MC, but a later dual reservoir unit would be better.

Residual valves are a really good idea for underfloor MC. A metering valve, preferably adjustable is good for disc, drum setups. Four wheel discs do not need the metering valve. A good bracket and underfloor MC will work fine, a firewall mounted swing pedal works well also. I always try to convince my customers to go with a late model rear end to get late model drums, or discs. The reasons are well covered here, better brakes, gear ratio etc. Your old drums will work with discs, later drums will work better.

I am available for info or tech support via email, to olddaddy@rustyhope.com. My webpage is www.rustyhope.com

[Jim Yergin]

Does any one sell a four wheel disc conversion kit that allows me to use my original master cylinder and stock wheels? Brake work may be in my future, and the conversion to disc should cost just a few more dollars with much better performance.

AAJ Brakes has a four wheel set-up (http://www.aajbrakes.com/). I installed them on my '41 P12 and used original wheels and master. Worked fine but I have since gone to a dual reservoir master from ECI.

Jim Yergin

[Paul Beard]

A.A.J. Brake on the links page sells front and rear conversion kits. He will sell all nparts or just what you want and you can buy the rest yourself. I bought his full kit for my "53" B4B front disc and everything works fine with the original M/C.

[Tony_Urwin]

Those prices that Charlie posted were from an old post by Merle Coggins. In checking the prices, I think that Merle was correct- O'Reilly has the lowest prices for the necessary parts.

But....I think the $134.69 was a typo. Should have been $234.69.

[Merle Coggins]

O'Rielly was the cheapest, but I did make a mistake on the total. I don't remember what I messed up on, but I later realized that I missed something on the O'Rielly list and it was closer to the others.

Merle

[Olddaddy]

Oops.....well, the parts are under $250 if you shop carefully. The kit is $160, so theoretically you could do your conversion for about $400 or less. I'd be curious what a stock drum brake rebuild would cost, if you could find drums. Nothing against stock, but discs make for a very safe car and cannot be seen with the stock wheels in place. My car is stock appearing, but very modified underneath.

[55 Fargo]

Oops.....well, the parts are under $250 if you shop carefully. The kit is $160, so theoretically you could do your conversion for about $400 or less. I'd be curious what a stock drum brake rebuild would cost, if you could find drums. Nothing against stock, but discs make for a very safe car and cannot be seen with the stock wheels in place. My car is stock appearing, but very modified underneath.

Putting the drum price/availability? aside, front brake re-do job.

-4 wheel cyls X $35.00 each =$140.00

-shoes re-lined=$100.00

-brake hoses=$30 to $40

-drums machined= $25.00

-total=$305.00

But this would be much more with NOS drums, or even decent used drums.

Going to front disc, would be modestly more money, but well within reason.......Fred

[William Davey]

I installed oddaddy's kit on my 55 Dodge C-3-B8 and could not be happier. I did not use residual valves or proportioning valves and have not had any problems. During my install I did encounter a few issues with spacers and brake lines and Charlie was EXTREMELY helpful. He gave me his personal phone number! Try that with ECI!

Service is very important, and well worth a few extra bucks to me.

Some other learnings from my conversion: Residual valves are only mandatory if the MC is mounted lower than the wheel cylinders. This is probably more common with cars. Proportioning valves may be needed, but I had trouble with one rear wheel locking up prematurely BEFORE I did the disc conversion. I just could never get all 4 drums adjusted properly. Again I'm taking Chalies advice and will install a new differential (from an 89 Dakota) this winter to solve both the brake and gear ratio problem.

[old rat 49]

I bought the kit from Charlie and parts from O Reilly and everything works except the axle nut wont allow for cotter pin. It needs about another 16th of an inch. Anyone else run into this problem ?

[faucet47custom]

I bought Charlies kit second hand from a gentleman on here that was going a different route with his car. It included the Plymouth spindles and the shock mount relocation. I have had a few questions here and there about what to use and have emailed Charlie several times. Every time I get a response with the info I need. I also sent him the Dodge spindles I took off my car so hopefully he can make a kit for these as well. On the MC I am still trying to figure out what way I want to do that. I want to retain the under-floor MC so I may bravely try the ECI kit, but I am trying to find a different supplier with the bracket that I can retain my original style brake and clutch pedal mounting.

[55 Fargo]

Price for front disc brake conversion here in Canada,

-Charlies kit $160.00 plus shipping

-1980 Volare rotor/hub assembly 2 X $103.79=$207.58

-1985 Pontiac Grand Prix caliper assemblies 2 X $28.39= $56.78

-Brake hoses 2 X $18.29 = $ 36.58

-total $460.94

This price does not reflect tax, residual valve prices, brake fluid, US/Canada exchange on Charlies kit.

Canadian prices are higher than US prices, but this is a very reasonable cost, and most likely well worth it, especially if you do not have good drums, and need to try and buy NOS drums.........

[William Davey]

Old rat 49. I found that the spindle nut completely covered the existing holes in my spindles where the cotter key goes. After tightening a new (NAPA) nut several times to complete to ensure the bearings are seated I marked the flats that always ended up at the 12 and 6 o'clock position. Then drilled new holes through the nuts in a vise. Reinstall the nut and mark the spindle, then take a deep breath and drill the spindle in place.

I caution that this is not a job for the 59 cent wal-mart drill bit. Use a good bit, use a lubricant like WD40 and go slow. When your arms start shaking, stop and rest. Keep the drill straight up and down (a spotter helps).

I've got about 500 miles on it and the wheels haven't fallen off yet.

[old rat 49]

Figured I'd have to do that. Just hoping for a different answer. LOL

[teardrop puller]

I think I took the 3" cutoff wheel and made the notches a little deeper where the cotter key passes. Been on there a couple of years and quite a few miles, so I guess it works. The nut is pretty thick.

kai

[Olddaddy]

The prototype caliper brackets for the larger bodied cars, Chrysler, Dodge, and DeSoto will be done by the weekend. I am hoping to mock them up and get pictures of the assembly which I will post here. I will be looking for a research assistant, more commonly known as a guinea pig..........who wants discs on one of these three cars. The kits will be identical in terms of parts, spacers, hardware etc. The only real difference will be the shape of the caliper bracket and upper mounting point.

The castle nuts are always interesting. On most cars they are not an issue, trucks are different and require ingenuity. The best solutions I've found are a thinner nut, sold by Napa and others, drilling a new hole in the nut to line up with the spindle, or drilling a new hole in both, or deepening the groove in the nut where the cotter pin passes through. All will work and to date I have not heard of a failure.

Do not be confused or think it is necessary to move the steering box on any car to install disc brakes. It is not necessary on cars or trucks. I did a one off dual reservoir install on a 51 Pilothouse Dodge truck mounting a late model MC on the original bellhousing location. We did move the box on that truck. We could have found a short MC, but decided to go with one we had onhand to get it done. We moved the box forward less than 5/8", adjusted the tie rods and the truck has been driven for nearly four years now without issue. If I were not so busy I would research shorter master cylinders as the original bellhousing location is the best place to put the new MC. Anyone work in a parts house with time on his hands? Send me a pm or email and we can work it out if you are the curious type.

I really don't want to get caught up in my kit vs somebody else's kit, or he said what about whatever. I make a good kit and so do other people. Buy the one you like and suits your purpose. Mine is very affordable, the parts are still commonly available, and the bolt pattern matches your original vehicle. With some planning and skill the work can be done in an afternoon. If you can drill out 2, or 3 holes and run a tap through them you can do the conversion, assuming you have some mechanical ability. I have talked a number of people through the process via email and pictures over the years. Some of them never quite got it, but they did end up with a working brake system that was better and safer than what they started with.

I am happy to talk to anyone who has questions, my email is olddaddy@rustyhope.com.

[daddyo23]

Charlie's right, if you have some ability the job isn't that bad. I did mine in a day with tapping the holes and have a very good braking system. I did get an eci master kit and while I didn't too much trouble with it I did have to doe some mods to make it work. Can't remember the details now as it was a year ago or so and I do suffer from c.r.s. .

[fedoragent]

Here are the Plydo instructions. I believe they are the same as what Olddaddy offers. Total cost around five hundred bucks for parts only. I am happy with my conversion.

Don with your disc conversion in the front are you able to use the stock 15 or 16" wheels?

Thanks,

FG.

[Don Coatney]

Don with your disc conversion in the front are you able to use the stock 15 or 16" wheels?

Thanks,

FG.

Yes. Follow this link for more information.

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=6191&highlight=stock+wheels