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Crazy idea for carbs???


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Posted

While recoverig from jet lag after 11 hours of flying to the east, my mind wondered over to todays gas and the junk that was in my carbs last year.

Does any one think that drilling and tapping some drain holes in the bottom of the float bowls then fitting brass plugs would be a problem?

This would allow gas to be easilly drained from the carbs prior to long periods of no driving. Probably would have to take the tops of anyway after drained to give the acc pumps a shot of oil, so it might be just as easy to pull the tops and use a suction device to remove the gas. I know I drain the carbs on my mc before putting it up for the winter. Just a brain wave of little consequence.

Posted

My car and truck both sit for a solid 5months if not a little longer. I do use a little stabil in the fuel over the winter but I have no issues restarting in the spring. Neither has required a jump or other work to start up in the spring.

Posted

Greg,

I do the same as Ed except I don't use any stabil or other additives. However, I do start my car up all winter and let it run. But.........I also leave the gas in my lawnmower and snow blower in the off seasons. I haven't had any problems with the gas either.

I think you were just unlucky enough to get some bad gas earlier this year. In either case, don't think I would drill a drain hole in the carb. It's just another area that would be a possible leak down the road.

Posted

Why park it. Drive it, drive it, drive it. Keep it running year round. Get the thrill of driving in the snow, and ice, just like the years of these cars. Unless your car is really a show car. Oh by the way, don't do anything foolish get yourself some good snow tires.

This is not an advertisement, but I never heard anything bad about Town Fair.

AL

Posted
Why park it. Drive it, drive it, drive it. Keep it running year round. Get the thrill of driving in the snow, and ice, just like the years of these cars. Unless your car is really a show car. Oh by the way, don't do anything foolish get yourself some good snow tires.

This is not an advertisement, but I never heard anything bad about Town Fair.

AL

I do like your idea, but you ain't a Northener, heck man, there is too much slush, road salt(or it's even worse replacement), on the roads of upstate New York, Gregs car would be corroding in no time.

I also live in a snowy are of NA, but it is colder here with less salt on the road, but would not drive a classic car through winter, too hard on them.

But you know, it would no doubt be fun to go for a winters cruise in our oild cars, just how do you keep the snow,slush and salt off them.............Fred

Posted

I have a friend who has a motorcycle and he has a rule that the bike gets ridden 12 months a year, and he has yet to miss a month.

If the bike can be ridden in the frozen north, a car can be driven. After all, that's what they were built for.

DougAtRickis_Jan_23_07.jpg

January 23/07. Waiting for his wife after breakfast at a local restaurant...a ride of about 5 miles for them...10 for me.

Posted

Our 130 plus inches of snow, and it almost immediate conversion into a saline slurry, containing chunks of rock salt, from November till April will leave my 62 year old metal colection in the garage, thank you very much.

I do have an aquaintence who rides nearly everyday, weather be damned. While I admire his skill and courage, i wonder at his grey matter.

Posted

Greg;

It would take about the same ammount of energy to remove/clean/seal your gas tank as it would to remove/drill/tap/install pipe plugs in the bottom of your carburetors discounting the below the knees rule. Are you still getting crud in your float bowls?

The less severe winters here in Tennessee do allow me to drive my car all 12 months. So I do not have a need to treat or drain the gasolene in my car.

Posted

Yes, these cars were driven back in the day in all the snow and ice. In fact, I've driven a 52 Dodge in all that type of weather, and other old cars from the 50's back in the 60's. But...........that was then, and there was a lot less traffic on the roads. Why do that today when you don't have to. Front wheel drive is much better in the snow than rear wheel drive.

Pat, don't know if you've ever ridden a bike in the winter. But........that's not much fun either. I have ridden a bike in 20 and 30 degree weather. Even with a full face shield on the helmet, gloves, boots and a snowmobile suit on, that's no fun at all, even on nice dry pavement. Every time you stop at a light the face shield will steam up from your breath, then you have to flip it up to clear it off. Plus, you freeze your hinder.

All that said though, I still think the best thing to do is for Greg to simply start the car up and let it run for 20 or 30 minutes, at least once a month during the winter. Could even pull it out of the garage and let it run sitting in front of the garage, then put it back afterward. We get an average of about 50 inches of snow a year, last year we had about 110 or 112 inches. Plus once we get snow in November or December, it stays here just like his does until around late February or March. If it snows a little dusting in Southern California, it's gone in a few hours. That's a big difference.

Posted

Shel thats a perfect example of why mine wont see a rode in the winter. The front fenders on my 94 dakota are 1/2 gone! The bed has been swapped once by me already and the new one is starting to loose its wheel wells already too.

Posted

Shel and Ed,we get rust here, but not as bad as you guys in NY Shel, where ever the temps stay close to freezing, and a lot of snow the worst is , more salt usage. Here in Manitoba it is often so cold in winter, salt doesn't do much druing those periods.........Fred

Posted

Norm, I positon my car rear end in first, and the pass side up tight against the wall.

Running it would pump CO into the house. plus, I need the 2 feet of floor space to get the sowblower in in an accesible position.

Posted

Greg,

I can relate to your problem getting the snowblower in and out. After I bought the large blower the end of last year I was thinking I would have to keep it in front of the coupe for access. But.........then after looking, if I just park the coupe close to the overhead I could put the blower behind the car. Then take it out of the side door. I put a 36" wide door in there when I replaced it about 4 years ago. So.........now the coupe won't be blocked in and I won't have to move it to get the coupe in and out during winter and get the snowblower out too without moving the car.

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