static timing question

[chucky07]

ok..my new engine still wont start..other than for a few seconds with starter fluid...I have spark, gas in carb...Now i'm assuming it has to be the timing...

I read the instructions for static timing ..and tried it..but I cannot figure it out.

I have number one at tdc...i pull the wire off number 1 spark plug hook test light to it and good ground and turn the dist the light is suppose to come on..well it does not..no matter how far i rotate the dist....I know the light works cuz when i hook directly to batt it comes on good and bright..

any ideas? any other way to get dist position close enough to at least start engine?

thx in adv

[buds truck]

please pm me about the emergency brake handle and cable I sent you. Bud

[greg g]

I believe you need to rearrange your procedure. If you have a test light (like a circuit probe The lighted icepick with the wire and aligator clip) connect the clip to the dist terminal ffrom the coil to the pointsand the other ended grounded. With the ignition on and the distributor alligned in the general are of having the rotor pointed to number 1. the lamp hsould be lighted. this indicated the point are closed and the coil is being saturated. If you truely have #1 at TDC, you can now rotate the distributor till the lamp goes off. this indicates the points have opened triggering the coil to fire. The rotor should now be pointing to the position that will fire piston one. When you have that established, and the wires on the proper towers in proper firing order, you should be staticlaay timed to apx TDC for #1.

However you statement that it starts and runs with starting fluid leads me to be lieve it is something besides timing. An engine will start and idle at just about any timing setting "in the neighborhood"

Gas to the carb doesn't mean its getting to the engine. I s you acc pump working? (do you get a squirt of gas when you open the throttle?) Is your choke closed? Have you fouled the plugs with many unsuccesful tries to start the engine? Are the plugs wet with gas?

With everything oriented properly, stick a screw driver in the plug connection of number 1 cylinder, ground the shank of the screw driver to a head bolt and have somebody crank the engine. Don't hold the screw driver not the best way to find if you have spark at the plugs, rather observe if there is a spark betweent he screw driver and the head bolt.

If you have spark compressio and fuel you should have fire.

[Merle Coggins]

I think you may have something backwards, Greg. If you connect a test light between the distributor points terminal and ground, the light will only light if the points are open. At that point the test light is providing the path to ground for the coil and the lamp will light, but may be dim since it is in series to the coil. When the points are closed the light will not be on since the points are providing the ground for the coil and no current will pass through the test light.

However, I agree with you on the other idea. If it runs for a few seconds on starting fluid, it would also run if it was getting fuel. If the carburator hasn't been gone through it may have gummed up jets or jet circuits. And even if there is gas in the float bowl it may not be getting drawn into the venturi. I'd try using a squirt bottle with gas. Squirt the gas into the carb throat while cranking. If it'll run while squirting the gas in, than it's time for a carb overhaul. I've also found that it sometimes helps to hold the throttle slightly open. If the idle circuit is the one that is plugged up, it won't be getting gas unless you open the throttle plate enough to start pulling from the main jet. Mine was like that at first. It would run with slight throttle but wouldn't idle. A quick carb cleaning and adjustment corrected that. However, if the main jet circuit is also plugged too, that won't even help.

Merle

[socalkevin07]

well the gas is squirting into the carb when i pump it..

as far as the static timing goes...I have a question...

Perhaps the machine shop messed up the crank cam alignment marks because when i bring it up to TDC mark on dampner I notice that the points are closed..

Shouldnt the points be open on a high point of the dist cam when it's at tdc?

This whole timing issue is pretty overwhelming for someone new to it like me...Just when I think I learn something I am told something on the contrary so I'm starting to think there are too many variables for me to comprehend....

[brian hood]

Do you have old stale gas?

[socalkevin07]

i removed tank..had it cleaned out...put new gas..cleaned lines..new fuel filter..new fuel pump....gas squirts in carb..but wont keep running..

Would like to figure it out..cuz my new engine sounds very nice for the few sec it will run ehehhe..

Perhaps I am not setting the choke properly? and the throttle cable inside..that goes to carb? not sure of the proper orientation of either cable.....Or maybe i should hold gas to floor? I'm thinking there is a procedure and steps i should take before hitting starter button...

I'm trying a process of elimination but perhaps someone has the magic formula for all the settings before i hit the starter button again. (once battery charges up again that is)

thx

[Merle Coggins]

Put the engine at the TDC mark with the distributor rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire. (I'm assuming that your distributor isn't 180 degrees off since it'll run momentarily on ether) If the points are fully closed at this position, loosen the distributor clamp bolt and rotate the distributor body opposite of the direction of rotation (rotor rotation) until you see the points just begin to open. This should be the position where spark should occur. If you are using the test light as mentioned above, the lamp should light as soon as the points open. Now tighten the dist clamp bolt and try it again. This time leave the choke fully open and give it slight throttle.

I rarely static time an engine before starting. Often times I'll hook up a timing light and adjust it while cranking. I can usually dial it in close enough for it to fire up with minimal cranking. It may help to have a helper step on the starter pedal while you're under the hood checking the timing, or runing the carb linkage by hand.

Good luck,

Merle

[Bill pilot99]

Put # one on compression, should be at TDC, put a spark plug on # one wire ,

turn the distribitor a little till you get a spark. Make sure the plug is grounded on the block. Make sure the wiring is right . This has been working for me for

55 years.

[chucky07]

am at work now but i'll try both when i get home..you guys are the greatest..and i know it will be running like a sewing machine before long

[Merle Coggins]

You're confussing me here. Do you have two different profiles on this forum?

Are you chucky07 and socialkevin07?

[Don Coatney]

You're confussing me here. Do you have two different profiles on this forum?

Are you chucky07 and socialkevin07?

I also am a bit confused? How many threads are there about this same problem?

[chucky07]

Ok..i got engine to tdc...my rotor is at the seven oclock position and ...

when i take off dist cap and turn it until the points start to open I can't.

There is not enough travel of the dist. co open points...they are dead in the middle of the flat part of lobe.

I'm very confused now...Does this mean I am 180 deg. off? but how could I be if my rotor position is correct? and it does start for a brief min with starter fluid?

and when i push thottle gas squirts in..and gas is getting to carb...

I think it's a timing issue but I can't figure out what..

any ideas?

[Allen I.]

If you "bump" it with the starter you should be able to get the points to open wide.

Open the dizzy, take off the rotor and push down on the starter switch for a moment.

[Jim Yergin]

Did you check to see if you have two adjusting bolts on the distributor? There should be one that fastens the distributor to the block to the right of the distributor body and there is another one that is up under the base of the distributor on the left that fastens it to the mounting plate. You may have to loosen both to get adequate movement to set the timing.

Jim Yergin

[Don Coatney]

Did you check to see if you have two adjusting bolts on the distributor? There should be one that fastens the distributor to the block to the right of the distributor body and there is another one that is up under the base of the distributor on the left that fastens it to the mounting plate. You may have to loosen both to get adequate movement to set the timing.

Jim Yergin

As pictured

[socalkevin07]

I had no idea there was another adjustment under the dist....well in the a.m. i'll try loosening the "hidden" nut and see if i can turn it enough to set the static timing.

I was also wondering if when I bring my engine to the dc mark that perhaps the dampner is not correct...meaning the pointer is not really dc? this would answer why the points will not open on dc, correc?

[Don Coatney]

I had no idea there was another adjustment under the dist....well in the a.m. i'll try loosening the "hidden" nut and see if i can turn it enough to set the static timing.

I was also wondering if when I bring my engine to the dc mark that perhaps the dampner is not correct...meaning the pointer is not really dc? this would answer why the points will not open on dc, correc?

I always find it much easier to do distributor work with the distributor removed from the engine. Have you removed your distributor to replace points etc?