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Langdon Stovebolt Dual Carter Carbs, Exhaust Questions!


fadingfastsd

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Hey guys,

I've got a pretty nasty exhaust leak at the heat riser on my stock intake right now, as well as just below the collector from a crappy weld on the exhaust pipe. So I'm moving up my engine mods ahead of schedule.

I've been doing alot of research on here about the Langdon Stovebolt dual Holley/Carter 2bbl carb setup, and have a couple questions.

I'm ordering the following from Langdon tomorrow:

(www.stoveboltengineco.com)

*Langdon Cast Iron Split Headers - $325

*Flange & Seal Kit - $15

*Heat Plate for intake manifold - $30

*Inlet & Exhaust Gasket Set - $9

*Offenhauser 2x1 intake manifold - $235

*2 Carter/Weber Carbs - $170

*2 Carb 2->1 bbl adapters - $30

*2 Polished air cleaners - $90

*1 dual carb linkage - $45

I have a couple questions for you guys though:

What all do I need to water heat the intake manifold? Does it come with the necessary parts, or do I need to source those?

If so...what?

Where do I bring the heated water from, the thermostat/upper radiator hose? Do I just T into the rad hose, or is there a modified thermostat housing?

What all do I need to split the fuel line to both carbs? Does this setup come with necessary parts, or do I need to source those?

Is the stock fuel pump adequate for running both of these Carter carbs?

Also, I noticed the electric chokes on these carbs require a 12v source.

My car is still running the stock 6v pos ground system, what do you recommend for using the electric choke?

Also, for exhaust I plan on using Langdons' recommendations:

2" pipe from manifolds to mufflers, 1 3/4" pipe from mufflers to back bumper.

What mufflers do you guys recommend for a classic, loud flathead hot rod sound?

He said short glasspacks with little round holes inside (miramount or cherry bombs?). What length? Where do I get them?

He also said, mufflers mounted as far forwards as possible.

Any comments?

Thanks!

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Well, there's been a pretty good discussion on the pros and cons of the langdon's HEI distributor at this link:

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=10654

I don't know much about the Langdons carbs, manifolds and stuff though. Some day I might try a set of those carbs just to see what it would be like to have carbs that don't leak:D

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Also look at Blueskies web page liked to his profile. He has done the langdon thing. He is running an edmunds intake, picking up the heat by passing the heater line through the manifild fittings. My opinion is the heat is not necessary if you are where it never freezes or you don;t drive inthe winter.

I do not heat my manifold and have driven in 20 degree temps with no problems. I did let the car warm up before driving off. 30 and 40 i jus t drive it normally.

You chould be able to get mufflers through any of the online speed shops like Speedway or summit.

You will eed to have the pipes custom bent. I do not see the need to have smaller pipes on the back side of the mufflers, but I am ot an engineer.

If you are swiching to electronic ig you will need to convert to 12 V neg.

So I would suggest you keep the stock ignition unless you plan on doing the change over as part of you modification process.

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i definitely feel the 2 2bbls on top of the offy intake is not necessary .

using the 2 carter 1bbls is easy..good..and plenty of power. and saves lots of money! ( i dont know langdon, and i am not talking about his product at all. it is probably good and well tested.) also those big aluminum pots are not that attractive...they hide too much of the good thing.

bill

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I am running a Langdon HEI in my 265 IND engine. It works very well in my setup giving me a hotter spark and allowing a wider gap. I changed to a 12 volt neg. ground electrical system. The nice thing was that the coil fit exactly into the firewall mounting in place of the old one maintaining the vintage look.

I've had my Dodge for around 45 years and like the fact that I can now stop at any local parts store and pick up parts for my ignition system.

I would not go back to the old ignition system unless I was Hershey bound.

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Ok thanks guys.

I'm gonna pass on the distributor for now. I'm not having any problems with my stock ignition setup, so I'll just leave it.

Anyways, 6v pos ground is cool right!?

I went ahead and ordered everything above from Tom Langdon, so I should get it all next week.

Can you guys help me put together a list of the additional stuff I'll need for T'ing in the water & fuel lines?

I want to have everything here and ready when the parts get in.

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The Offy twin intake should come with various brackets, bits of linkage and pipe and hose connections to adapt the twin carbs to the single pipe, well mine did, so if the intake comes in the Offy box you should get the extra bits, I'd wait till it arrives or check with Tom Langdon.....andyd

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i definitely feel the 2 2bbls on top of the offy intake is not necessary .

using the 2 carter 1bbls is easy..good..and plenty of power. and saves lots of money! ( i dont know langdon, and i am not talking about his product at all. it is probably good and well tested.) also those big aluminum pots are not that attractive...they hide too much of the good thing.

bill

Using the 2 stockers may be easy, but I'll bet they won't idle as well as the Carter-Webers, and parts are more available as well. With my mild cam my engine loped a little with the stock carb, loped a little more with a pair of Stromberg 97's, and now idles smooth as glass with my Carter-Webers (darn, I liked the lope!).

Marty

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I did not like his headers and sent them back. Poor fit, poor design, and bad welding.

Someone just takes an existing header, cuts off one of the four tubes to create a 3 tube header. The "signal" will bounce back and get messed up by that cut off 4th tube and render the small gain in power useless.

Have a pair custom made correctly or use the originals.

My 2 cents worth.

James

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I did not like his headers and sent them back. Poor fit, poor design, and bad welding.

Someone just takes an existing header, cuts off one of the four tubes to create a 3 tube header. The "signal" will bounce back and get messed up by that cut off 4th tube and render the small gain in power useless.

Have a pair custom made correctly or use the originals.

My 2 cents worth.

James

Probably the tube headers, that he sold, but the cast iron ones are a different story altogether. I believe they are the ones that FF was thinking of

of getting.

AL

DSC_0772.jpg

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I'd love a set of the cast iron Fenton repops also but just where the front header dumps is where the Oz RHD steering box lives........right between the oil and fuel pumps.......that gap you Yanks have is taken up by the RHD steering box on my 41 Plymouth Coupe............buggar.....lol......andyd

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Thanks Norm, finally got the exhaust sys in and have made a couple of shake down runs. First one with the wife went without a hitch,thankfully,

the second time I shut down at a multi lane intersection and had to push to the side(with help) lifted the hood and found the power wire clip had slipped off the coil. Needless to say I was quite relieved. Not completely happy with the advance settings w/the HEI yet,having to downshift at times, but tinkering is part of why we do this. Just happy to be back on the road

again.

AL

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Hey your rug looks just like ours, but when I take shots like that I always get my toes in the pic..... Pretty, remember not to tighten them down too much. the spec is 12 to 15 lb.ft. You Might want to go over to the Vintage Power Wagon site and grab a set of the brass tapered nuts and the tapered washers that go with them.

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Yep I just received everything else today (carbs, linkage, air cleaners, intake).

I was wondering...does Langdons kit come with hardware (nuts/bolts) to mount the carbs(adapters actually, 2 bolts per adapter) to the intake? Hardware to mount heat plate to intake? Hardware to mount headers to engine?

None of that hardware seems included, but should it have been?

Thanks! I'll post up pics of the rest of the stuff soon.

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