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Showing results for tags 'steering'.
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Hello fellow gear heads. I’m new to the antique Mopar world. Been a GM guy since the early days. So sorry. Lol. Anyway I just purchased a ‘48 Plymouth 2-door sedan for a rat rod project. I’ve been studying intently the subject of installing a rack and pinion. I understand the center tie rod take off rack is the way to go. My question is, has anyone ever contemplated modifying the control arms to accept reversed S-10 spindles? Only asking because I have a few sets laying around. The way I figure, you’ll get an instant drop of about 2” plus the ease of installing disc brakes. Wouldn’t be too hard for a competent welder to make the necessary mods to the control arms to accept the S-10 ball joints. Just need re-drilled rotors if you want the 4-1/2” bolt circle. I’m just not sure about the whole bump steer situation with reversing the spindles side to side to locate the steering arms to the rear... Like most hot rodders, I’m on a budget.... I’m married after all. Haha! Thanks in advance for any advice!
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The steering column bracket has a bushing pressed in for the shift rod. I was able to remove this using Miller tool c-625, designed to be used for the fluid drive oillite bushing.
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Need some advice as I am entering new territory (for me). I am building a "52 Plymouth Suburban and I am mating a 131 Hp P23 flathead with the Power Pack 2bbl carb to a GM TH2004R automatic OD transmission, using a Wilcap adapter. I need an auto steering column, but because the wagon will look stock, I want to re-use the original steering wheel. Also does installing an automatic necessitate a different gearbox, or will my stock gearbox mate up? The front suspension is stock. I remember a thread where we discussed a Vega box and GM 525, but we weren't talking about automatics.
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Folks....so I took my '49 B1B out for a test drive a few days before Thanksgiving 2017. Took it around the block (about 3/4 miles) making 4 right hand turns. Made three loops. It was all I could do to keep the truck going straight and returning to straight after making the turns. I would say I have close to 90 degrees free play at the steering wheel. Think I can get rid of most of the free play by adjusting the steering box. What concerns me most is the failure of the truck to come back to center after the turn. Been awhile since I drove this truck or any vehicle with manual steering. I do remember and understand that after making the turn you could let the wheel slip through your hands and the steering would return to center or close back to straight. With this truck I had to "steer" the wheel back to straight after the turn and with the excessive free play it was kind of exciting getting it back to straight and keeping it there. Also, I had 15" radial tires on the front and noticed the steering seemed exceptionally hard to turn. I mean back when this truck was my daily driver I used to be able to parallel park it using one hand pressed against the steering wheel. Checked the toe-in and although not to 1/8" spec, it's pretty close at about 3/16 . Any suggestions about the non-centering and hard steering would be appreciated. If anybody could give me an estimate of acceptable free play from your vehicles that would be great also. Note that my primary purpose of this truck would be driving it in parades and local car shows. I don't see myself ever taking it on a highway or above maybe 45-50 mph. Best regards to all.
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Steering column in '50 Business Coupe leaked from day one. I've replaced the pitman arm seal twice. Taking engine back out so it's time to fix the leak. I have a '53 or'54 Plymouth that I've never paid much attention to. Will the steering shaft from the 53-54 fit in the '50 steering tube? The '50 tube is already repainted, the horn & turn signals work, and I've rebuilt the steering wheel. I'm just concerned that the frame mount and the rod length are the same. Where's the best place to get a new box to frame rubber mount? Thanks, Carl
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Hello everyone, I'm again asking for your help. A few weeks ago I finally bought the "steering column and gearshift boot" from oldmoparts.com, and while the interior car is being redone, it's time to install it. As far as I know, to do it I have to remove the steering wheel to pass the boot through. But it's also needed to disassemble the gearshift. So, I get to the question. Does anyone have some kind of exploded view of both ends of the gearshift? (similar to the attached). I tried google, but nothing useful showed up. Best Regards and thanks!
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Well the time is now, this 47 Plymouth business coupe SD has stalled for a year, but only for good reason. the original plan was a mild build with a 318 Magnum. But i was able to get my hands on an entire 08 Charger R/T, that's getting turned into a drag runner. Yup that means the 5.7 Hemi, trans, interior, steering column, gauges, seats, and entire electrical system is being installed in the the Plymouth. AND ONLY ABOUT A MONTH TO FINISH!!! Engine: 5.7 Hemi Trans: 5 speed Tiptronic Steering: 89 Chevy caviler Rear end: 01 ford explorer (DSK Brake typ) http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/vethd32/media/IMG_20170326_192443944_zps2oqtkxxj.jpg.html?filters[user]=144930205&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1 http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/vethd32/media/IMG_20170325_112957080_zps742lbbze.jpg.html?filters[user]=144930205&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=3 http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/vethd32/media/IMG_20160709_241347219 1_zpsunomkp06.jpg.html?filters[user]=144930205&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=4 Ill try to keep this feed updated as best i can!
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I've been driving my 48 plymouth with pretty loose steering for a while now. The other day I noticed that I now have some play in the column. The shaft inside the column that the wheel attaches to. I can wiggle the steering wheel up and down, not much, maybe 1/16th or 1/8th inch. Just enough to notice it isn't right. I have the shop manual but all it says is that "there should not be any up and down movement of the steering wheel at the steering column jacket." It does not make it clear how to fix that issue. In the exploded view it looks like that shaft goes all the way from the steering wheel down through the worm gear, is that right? I'm wondering what I should look for to take that movement out of the steering wheel. If anyone's had this issue before. Thanks!
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Hello, Been awhile since I posted. Starting to get back into my 47 plymouth project and had a couple questions. Doing the cavalier R/P install, what oil pans have people used to ensure clearance for a BB mopar (413)? I have a front and center sump available, but both look like they won't work with the R/P. For the rear, I am looking to get rid of the leaf springs and install a 4 link with either coilovers or airride. What kits are people using? The rear end is a 323 sure grip out of a 69 road runner. Any info or experience people have would be fantastic. Thank you in advance.
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hey y'all. I'm trying to get a 3 spoke moon wheel on my 53 cranbrook due to a shorty original wheel. Ive tried 2 adapters that my local shop said would fit and neither worked. Anyone have any experience or knowledge on the topic? Thanks in advanced.
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- steering wheel
- adapter
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I have never rebuilt my draglink and I think I have too much play in the steering box end. I looked at the technical archives and found nothing. What am I in for? is this a day job or an hour? Greg
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THANKS EVERYONE WHO ASKED ABOUT THESE PARTS. I moved the entire lot today to one buyer. Jim Good morning, I sold my P15 last April and am now longer in the hobby. LOOKING TO UNLOAD TO ONE PARTY or VENDOR. I have a disassembled overdrive needing some work, a complete (sans steering wheel) steering set up with good sector gear that was pulled from a '48 Desoto, but I believe the parts book says fits P, D and Desoto. I have some manuals, including a Master Index parts reference for 46-54 for all Mopar (has great exploded illustrations), some misc. trim parts, ignition parts, coupe quarter glass, wing vents and glass, distributor housings (some mostly complete) Vacuum modules, etc., If you can come pick up these are yours. Otherwise, by end of June I will need to dispose of. Please keep this hardware in circulation or use. Located in Lake County, IL, northeast Illinois. Jim Leman 847-840-0784.
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I've got a 48 plymouth and my steering has quite a bit of play. I want to get steering nice and tight again and I'm wondering if there is a rebuild kit available or where to send it to be rebuilt. I remember seeing an article in a magazine, maybe rod & custom last year about a shop in southern IL that rebuilds them. I even got a quote from them and have since lost the contact info and can't find the magazine. Can anyone help? I don't really want to do the cavalier rack swap. Thanks!!
- 20 replies
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- Steering
- Steering box
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Hi everyone, I have a 1951 Cranbrook 4 door mild kustom. Almost all of the work was done by the previous owner. I am fixing the steering by putting in a Chevy Cavalier unit using the mounting kit from Fat Man Fabs. to replace the junkyard unit that was slapped on. I have to use the r and p to get the linkage around the 350 Chevy that is in it. The driver's side steering arm has been repaired or shortened, but I don't know which. Is there a resource that would tell me the stock length? Better yet, is there a reliable place to purchase a replacement? Thanks. My wife really wants me to get the car on the road as soon as possible. She's awesome! John.
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Hey Guys, Im in the process of doing the diesel swap into my '52 B3b 1/2 ton and I've been fiddling with the front suspension. Its all torn down and i got new leaf springs from St. Louis Spring. Now im in the process of collecting the necessary parts to put it all back together when the time comes, king pins, shackles, tie rod ends, drag link, etc. This got the gears turning in the old brain... since the diesel is heavier (750 lbs dry) than the flat head 6, would i be better sourcing a 1 ton or 1-1/2 ton front axle and spindles? Also would it be a good idea to get a steering box from one of those trucks in order to provide greater mechanical advantage when turning? Im not familiar with the heavier spec trucks so any help would be greatly appreciated. I decided to make this a separate thread instead of in bedding it in my "1952 B3b with Cummins 4bt" so that people can search for it in the future easier and hopefully it will help them out. Thanks, -Chris
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So, where does someone find a steering wheel nut? Looks to be maybe 5/8 x 18. Does that sound right? After screwing up the nut in a related attempt, I saw the plans on how to get the old steering wheel off in this forum. Man these are tough buggers to get off. The old steering wheel is really bad, and I have a used one that is a fair bit better. A buddy of mine worked in a commercial equipment repair shop and found a brand new steering wheel that is slightly smaller in diameter (about 1-1/4" smaller), but appears to have the same shaft size, spline, etc. Even the horn button looks like the original on my '48. Anyway, about that nut........... I can't be the first guy looking for a nut, can I?