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Servicing Chrysler Distributors article from Motor Age magazine May 1948 View File Instructions for servicing Chrysler distributors from Motor Age magazine May 1948 issue Submitter JonathanC Submitted 08/02/2022 Category Instructions, Manuals & Templates  

I am a bit confused by the installation instructions for the 2563LSP6 into my 1950 Plymouth 218 flattie. The instructions show to mount the ignition module in the same place as the condenser was removed from, but the holes do not line up for the screw to go into the center hole with the left hole over the nub that locates the condenser. If anyone could post a picture showing the mounting position of their Pertronix 6 volt positive ground I would really appreciate it.

Ignition switch turns car on but when switch to off position it stays on

Hello everyone. I made a huge mistake and pulled the guts out of my distributor without taking pictures where the wires went to. I thought I would remember but obviously that didnt happen. I have the new points added but can't finish. I'm hoping someone could pull their cap off and take some up close photos of the guts and wires. The pics I have found online don't help me much. Thank you so much for any help you can offer. -Dan

This actually happened to my dad's 59 Triumph Herald convertible, but I thought I'd post here because it was an unusual problem. Dad gave me the Herald recently, as he now cant in and out of such a small sports car. It's had issues which I was working through. I've been driving it to and from work over winter (on sunny-ish days) but eventually it became very hard to start then refused to start. Plenty of fuel - no spark. Poor spark out of the HT coil lead. Ok, either the coil or condenser has died. Replaced the condenser in the distributor with a NOS one. Hot spark from the HT lead, nothing at the plugs. Hmmm - only thing left is the distributor cap. Put a multimeter across the coil lead connector and the carbon brush - open circuit. There should be some resistance.... Carefully removed the brush and its spring as I didn’t want to stretch or damage it. The spring looked burnt, and the hole it sat in was black. After a squirt of WD40 in the hole and cleaning it out with a cotton bud I could see the metal the spring sat against. Cleaned the spring and brush and pushed it back. I used a flat punch to carefully push the brush until it actually clicked in place. I checked for continuity with the multimeter and I had a reading! I turned it over with all plug leads off and one aimed at No. 4 plug. Damn thing tried to start! Put it all back together and away she roared – well, as much as a 948cc engine can roar. It actually feels like I’ve gained a couple of HP. Moral of the story - when you have eliminated the obvious, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the problem. I’ve had a brush spring break and a brush crumble, but this was something new. Dad’s 82 and been mucking around with cars for most of that time and never had that problem. Rick

Well, we have had six solid months of winter this year and I finally got my 1947 Crysler New Yorker out on the Road. Drove it to the office three times this week and it was running great. I went down to the parkade to go home and I put the key into the ignition but it would not rotate - it seems stuck fast and will not turn though the key can move in and out of the keyhole. Before I call the locksmith - can anyone please offer me some advice? In order to get it out of our buildings parkade and back home is there a safe way to Hotwire or bypass the ignition switch until I can get the keyhole replaced or repaired?

I'm currently trying to get a 51 b series going and all I need to do is hook up the cables from the battery to the starter(foot starter), but all there is, is a spot right in front of the lever I'm assuming for the positive. Am I correct on this? Second I don't have the key for the ignition and I was wondering if I could cut the wires and install a toggle switch? Any answers appreciated

Just wondering if anyone has come across any universal or aftermarket ignition switches that would fit in place of where the original switch once fit. Tired of my universal one just hanging, and trying to avoid buying a NOS one on Ebay. Thanks!

File Name: 1952_autolite_catalog.pdf File Submitter: P15-D24 File Submitted: 07 Jan 2015 File Category: Reference Information 1952 Autolite Catalog Click here to download this file

Hello All, Many thanks again for all of your help on getting my trunk unlocked in time for last weekend. I found a locksmith to pick it open for me. But now, I have another question: When I lost the keys to the ignition and trunk, I had no spare set. So, unable to find a way to have a new key made for the original lock, I bought a new ignition switch and key set and installed it. It works, but to my surprise, the switch and lock cylinder that came, supposedly the correct type for my 1946 Plymouth, did not match the one that was in the car. The original was made by Alemite, and the key was a tiny Star type HFD7, and no provision I could find to remove the lock cylinder. The new one came with a much larger key, and a totally different-looking cylinder. It also has a pin on the top of the switch to remove the cylinder with. This solved a different question I'd had for a while, I came across an original Plymouth P15 blank with the crest pressed on the key. It was too big to fit the old lock, but glides right into the new ignition. A correct fit. So, which is it? I have no reason to believe the old lock is not original to the car, but every other resource points to the new lock as being the correct type. The only explanation I can think of is that it is a left-over 1942 part that was installed only on the early 1946 models. Is the lock original, or not? If so, why is it different? Thanks very much in advance, and best regards.

I have a 52 B3B that was overhauled and seems to run fine at idle and when increasing rpm in the shop. When I drive it on the road it does not want to go over 30 mph and begins missing and sputtering some popping thru the carb. the plugs are new, firing order is correct, plug wires new, distributor cap not cracked. I have converted to 12V but did not change the points. The points do have a frosting around them. I do not have a ballast resistor to the coil. I am sure the valve timing is correct but have not checked it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Larry

Hi all, in my 42 Dodge is a 1950 230 Engine. Now I tried to have a look at my ignition but I have some problems with the marks on my damper. Because I didn't see anything I tried to get the marks better with a little bit of chalk but besides some marks I only found one number what seems to me like a "10". If this is right the other marks might be these degrees. Am I right or am I completely wrong? Thank you in advance Kai