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Showing results for tags 'Wiring'.
Found 22 results
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Hi, I am Michael , new member here from Marmora Ontario Canada. Purchased a 1951 S15 custom Desoto original equipment all original and in good condition. It runs and some things work and others don`t. I replaced the battery cables with number 1 copper and heavy soldered terminals I had the carb rebuilt but feel that it may not have been done properly since a linkage was unattached and words like `don`t need that part` were said. I finally put the linkage back in the right place. There are three wires going to the carb two to the top with terminals and one to the drivers side of the carb halfway up. I do have a manual with a wiring diagram and I do have a meter and continuity buzzer. I would like to know exactly where these wires should go and what there purpose is. Unfortunately the wires have been joined to the original harness and the colours have been lost, they may be in the wrong place.. I also do not know what and where the parts are that the wiring diagram identifies such as the automatic transmission controls .....are they on the transmission? The 30 amp circuit breaker is that on that square box with four terminals ? Is it possible for someone to interpret the wiring to the carb the coil and to that 4 terminal box and outline in simple terms where those wires should go? The second issue I have is the choke and carb again. If I pour gas in the carb it will start and then run ok. The manifold auto choke wire should go exactly where? and when you turn the key should it close the choke butterfly and hold it closed in the start position only? Should the gas peddle be pumped a lot to start? I did notice that the carb pump does put fuel in the venture. Does the ignition capacitor sit on top of the generator? Where can I get a new ignition switch? Thank you for your help. I tried to upload photos but the files are too big.
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Chrysler C-38 and C-39 wiring diagram from Motor Age magazine View File Wiring diagram for C-38 and C-39 Chryslers (1946-first series 1949) from Motor Age magazine Submitter JonathanC Submitted 08/02/2022 Category Reference Information
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Hello everyone. I made a huge mistake and pulled the guts out of my distributor without taking pictures where the wires went to. I thought I would remember but obviously that didnt happen. I have the new points added but can't finish. I'm hoping someone could pull their cap off and take some up close photos of the guts and wires. The pics I have found online don't help me much. Thank you so much for any help you can offer. -Dan
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Hey guys, Been lurking for a while, and finally have some time to really give my car the attention it deserves. First up on my list to redo is to address the original wiring - although still mostly functional, I'd like to replace it all with some nice new braided wire before finishing off the interior, and was wondering if anyone else here has a ballpark idea of how much (length) of wire I'm looking at to order? I have the schematic from the service manual but it doesn't seem to mention length anywhere. Also, where are some critical areas where I should consider adding or replacing body grounding straps? Thanks in advance. (P11 business coupe, still original 6V)
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I have a 1940 Dodge D14, and I was wondering what the best wiring harness is to replace the original? Mine is corroded and needs replacement.
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FLATHEAD ENGINE questions for 1948 Plymouth special deluxe
vinny1416 posted a topic in P15-D24 Forum
I have a 48 Plymouth special deluxe and havent been able to get this motor to start. It cranks and I put gas in the carb trying to get it to start. Though when I was working on it my stud that the positive cable bolts to got really hot. Wire isnt hot but just the bolt. I get the motor to crank and sounds like it wants to start because it does pop but cant get it to run.
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So i have a 50 wayfarer. I did some motor work to the car. Im putting the car back together and re wiring the car back to original. Its hard to see the wire colors compared to the book, since its so faded. It also doesnt help that the previous owner mustve wanted to get the car running with home theater speaker wire. Anyways i have the distributor and coil in it. No spark. The coil is wired into the horn relay such as the book says. I would appreciate it if someone can give me some guidance since im 21 and this is my first full blown project car. The old girl is all stock and has the 6 volt positive ground on it.
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So i have a 50 wayfarer. I did some motor work to the car. Im putting the car back together and re wiring the car back to original. Its hard to see the wire colors compared to the book, since its so faded. It also doesnt help that the previous owner mustve wanted to get the car running with home theater speaker wire. Anyways i have the distributor and coil in it. No spark. The coil is wired into the horn relay such as the book says. I would appreciate it if someone can give me some guidance since im 21 and this is my first full blown project car. The old girl is all stock and has the 6 volt positive ground on it.
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Without buying a harness. What awg wiring do I use to redo everything. Headlights, horn, under dash, dom lights, parking lights, brake lights.
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Can someone tell me the order to wire this up ? And which spark plug is #1 and #6 on the engine.
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Hello everyone. I'm new to the site, and don't have any auto repair experience. I'm kinda diving in blind into the hobby, and might be asking a lot of dumb questions, so I hope you'll have patience with me. I purchased a 1951 Dodge Coronet with the Gyromatic transmission. It's been sitting in a barn since about 1984, 25,000 original miles. Interior is in pretty sad shape. It starts, runs and stops, but almost ALL the wiring insulation has been eaten by mice. A lot of the electrical things aren't working on it, and I hope most of that is due to the wiring being bad. The battery drains overnight while parked, so I know I have at least one major short somewhere. Breaks are ok, manual shifting works, but I'm not hearing the "Click" or "Clunk" for the Gyromatic. Running lights, horn, and the heater motor work, but the headlights, interior lights, panel lights, and the windshield wipers aren't working. One thing I can't seem to find a consensus on is what gauge wiring to buy. I found an online store that sells cloth covered wire for about a buck a foot. https://enginebarn.myshopify.com/search?q=Cloth+Covered+Wire&x=0&y=0 Some people have told me that for the best performance I should use 10 gauge for everything on these old 6V positive ground systems, but I worry about not having enough room for the wires to fit through the firewall. I have a service manual on order, but I'd like to buy the wire now so I have it ready when the manual comes. Any recommendations or tips about the wiring?
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- 1951 dodge coronet
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I've recently acquired a 1950 P-20 project car, and since it needs a complete re-wire anyway, I'm considering switching over to a 12 volt harness and adding air conditioning. I've always left my other old cars 6 volt and never had trouble, BUT, it sure would be nice to have A/C here in Southern California. Has anyone else added a "Vintage Air" (or similar) unit to their old Mopar? If so, I'd love to hear how the swap was made from the old heater system to the new.
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Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 51 B series pickup?
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I wonder if anyone can help me with some brake light wiring questions. I finally decided to add an extra pair of brake lights to my stock 41 Plymouth P-12 coupe. It originally only had the single, trunk mounted light, which just doesn' cut it in modern traffic...too many times people don't notice me braking. I added two NOS 6 volt "Guide Lamp" style lights with red lenses on the rear bumper, and connected the wiring to the existing single brake light wire. I installed 6 volt, 20 watt halogen bulbs. It worked fine initially, but eventually blew the single 30 amp fuse in the main lighting circuit. Following some on-line tech tips, I tried re-routing the hot wire from the brake light switch directly to the solonoid on the starter, and installed a 20 amp in-line fuse. This bypasses the main light circuit and keeps the central fuse from blowing, but when I tested the brake lights for several minutes I noticed that the ammeter now jumps way to the positive side and the brake light housings get so hot they literally start to smoke! Is this an issue with the halogen bulbs themselves, or is re routing the hot wire to the solonoid a bad idea? Should I just ditch the halogen bulbs and go back to regular (dim) bulbs, and/or switch the wiring back? Maybe I'm the dim bulb here.....
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I am just getting started in my mission to get my grandfathers 1940 dodge pickup running again. The wiring is shot and I am looking for any advice on where and how to start my rewiring project. I removed the starter and generator and am having them rebuilt. Most of the wires are all cracked and bare in some spots. Should I replace with new or the old cloth style? is it possible to find a complete wiring harness? or diagram? Thanks
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Well I do have some clues. It connects to the radiator, it has a wire, I think it might be for the fender lights but I can't determine what it does for them and I can't find it in the wiring diagram.
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I'm looking for any help! I recently bought a 48 special delux for a great deal, runs like a champ fires right up etc. guy said there was 'minor' electrical problems when they removed something. Well minor to some is major to others!!! It has been converted to 12 V sorta. New coil and alternator, but no lighting or gauges work. I assume the didn't convert the positive ground to negative with the lights but I'm not sure. I've never experienced a positive ground vehicle before. All the wire is deteriorating and needs replacement. I am looking into a wiring harness, but do I go back to the 6V or complete the 12 V conversion correctly? Any help would be great! Matt. (still wet behind the ears)
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File Name: Vehicle Wiring Schematics covering 1946 to 54 File Submitter: Alshere59 File Submitted: 27 Apr 2013 File Category: Reference Information Schematics are broken out by models. NOTE: 1946 or P 15 does not give wire size, down load the next year for that information. Click here to download this file -
What can I pull out of the car before I start setting in new wire. I picked up the car not running and the wires where not hooked up to the starter. Not sure if it was reverse polarity. I took the starter to Hammetts to have it checked and got it to work but I can't get the silenond to kick in when I think I have it hooked up right. Not sure where the wires go on the starter. There is 4 lugs on the starter. So I guess in need help with where the wires go on the starter and if I can't get it to turn the motor over I will need to replace the wire system with the one I bought from ez wire.thanks for any info......
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What can I pull out of the car before I start setting in new wire. I picked up the car not running and the wires where not hooked up to the starter. Not sure if it was reverse polarity. I took the starter to Hammetts to have it checked and got it to work but I can't get the solenoid to kick in when I think I have it hooked up right. Not sure where the wires go on the starter. There is 4 lugs on the starter. So I guess in need help with where the wires go on the starter and if I can't get it to turn the motor over I will need to replace the wire system with the one I bought from ez wire.thanks for any info......
