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Showing results for tags 'Transmission'.
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I'm moving right along on my '52 Suburban build. This week I finished upgrading the brakes to a dual master cylinder from ECI Hotrod Brakes and Brackets. It's very well made and I had no trouble fitting it to my existing underfloor brake pedal. The instructions were good, and the only thing I had to buy extra was a bracket off eBay, to hold the combination valve below the master cylinder. I tried to re-use all the original clutch parts that I could, but needed to add a bit of metal to the clutch pull back spring arm as it was wallowed out, and install new clevis pins. My wife donated her old tan purse for the clutch fork seal. I saved some $ by using the P15D24 Forum template and made one myself, as AB and others are all out of stock. Next-steering column fun! ECIChrysler.mov
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Hello all! I have a 1952 Plymouth Cranbrook that I recently finished restoring and have been driving around. After getting it on the road, I quickly realized the draw of an overdrive transmission, which my calculations show would give an estimated ~20 mph increase in range.(Which would be basically necessary where I live) I have had trouble finding an overdrive trans for a good price, it have recently found someone selling one nearby for $700. I was just interested if anyone was more knowledgeable about overdrives and could help give me some direction on exactly what needs to be changed, added, modified, etc. I know I will have to modify the electricals, but I’m not completely sure of “what” and “why” past what I found in my manual. Also wondering if the transmission is a complete swap in, or if I will need to modify things like driveshaft length and things like that. I am talking to the seller about looking at it and possibly purchasing it Saturday, so I would really appreciate any information, tips, and advice before then!!! Thanks!!!
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3 spped manual trans when unable to get it into 1st and rev - check the screw on the side, under the top shift lever. It's a slotted screw head. after removal check the length of the shoulder past the end of the threads - should be about 1/4" if it's less - it's sheared off. If the pin shoulder is sheared, it allows the vertical shaft to move up, instead of the internal lever, so it can't engage the 1st/rev rake shaft. Use a magnet to find the sheared end (in the lube). Can't help in finding a new screw - I had one in another old tranny.
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At the risk of asking a previously asked question while I wait for my parts manuals. Is a 3 speed manual transmission in a 1940 P9 2 Dr Plymouth Sedan the same as the transmission in a 1947 Dodge Special Deluxe D25C 4 dr? The same question for the rear axle. The engine I know is a different size but all my research shows any parts for the transmission always list from 40-47 as fitment. I have an opportunity to purchase the 1940 car and am wondering if these major components will be useful as spares. Thank you.
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I need to buy a flexplate and hub to attach my Mopar-GM Wilcap adapter plate (on my 265) to a GM 2004R trans. The Wilcap aluminum adapter plate came free with a 218 motor I bought a few years ago. According to the phone message, the company is now called Transmission Adapters but they are still using the Wilcap web pages. They are based in Wisconsin, and when I call day or night, I get "We are experiencing high call volume and sales orders. Leave a message and send an email and we'll get back to you" I've not received a call back or email response in a month of trying. Anyone have recent experience with these guys? Also is anyone else making an auto trans adapter for our flatties? If I didn't already own the GM 2004R, I'd just try to find a TorqueFlite and be done with it!
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Hi, I bought a working 241 motor and attached transmission from a 1941 Chrysler Coupe for my PowerWagon. So I do not need the transmission, clutch or bell housing. Can you help me identify what type of transmission and coupling this is so I can list it for sale for someone that can use it? Thanks
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hello all, I have a 1933 Dodge DP 6 with a 1953 Dodge 230ci engine, the stock transmission in the vehicle is a 3 speed with no-syncro's and not very good shifting sounds. it either must be rebuilt or will be replaced with a new updated transmission. I am not familiar with what to do in this scenario. is there anyone who can help me find the correct transmission adapter plate and transmission to go with? I have been told to go with a t5 transmission and an adapter plate, but am not sure where I can find these items. I would like to keep the flat head 6 but due to the irritating time trying to find the correct parts that will bolt onto the engine, I am considering full tear down of drive train and install a new mopar v8 setup. but would rather stick with flathead just cant find the correct parts to go with. all help is appreciated. (sorry if this has been asked, I could not find anything relating to this topic) -
I've got a 1955 Dodge C-1-B6 with a NP420 4-speed. The guy who sold it to my Dad (in 1973!) said it was late in the model year and maybe got some '56 parts, but who knows. In any case, it's got a casting number C-88221 with a top cover C89988. The pictures below are from another post, but mine looks the same, with e-brake and all. (Not sure about the tower though.) It's being rebuilt, but the synchronizer is blown and I can't find a replacement. Any ideas? I've asked D. Cirillo and Vintage Power Wagons, no luck.
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I have a 1949 Desoto custom. She's got transmission problems. As in it won't stay in 2nd gear. It has the fluid drive tip toe trans. It starts out fine . shifts into second and go's for a while then pops out of gear with a loud clunk. I have taken it into a shop and it looks like the pump is bad and the housing and syncros also the speed blocking ring. Thats what they're telling me. I don't know that much about transmissions. Anyway We are not finding any parts for this trans. Can anyone steer me in a good direction where I might find parts?. Or someone who can machine the extention housing?. Or possibly buy one in good condition? Thanks
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I am a novice trying to reinstall the 4 speed transmission in my 1952 B-C-3. I followed the directions in the manual when removing the transmission and slid it out on guide pins placed in the upper bolt holes. Now when I try and slide it back in it is getting hung up. It appears to me that the throw out bearing is the issue. I can't seem to get it lined up up correctly. I tried putting the bearing directly on the transmission shaft but then I can't get it past the clutch fork. I then tried to remove the clutch fork but can't seem to get it out of the housing with the clutch installed. Can someone please advise what the correct procedure for installing the transmission? The book just says "reverse removal procedure". Thank you!!!
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Hi all, I'm new here and will get some pics of my new project up soon, as well as some progress reports. Currently, though, I'm in search of a gasket set and seal for the 3 speed manual, standard duty, transmission for my pickup. Google hasn't provided any results, except for a similar products, but not the ones I need. Anyone know of a source or recommend how I can move forward? Any help is appreciated, first project vehicle here. Done a handful of motorcycles in the past.
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I disassembled a 1950 4-speed trans just for kicks and to clean it up and check it for wear and possible bad bearings. I'm putting it back together now and I noticed that the reverse gear fork rail has one end made of brass. I'm just wondering why that might be and whether it makes a difference in which way it should be re-installed - brass or steel end first. I didn't pay enough attention during reassembly, but I think the steel end gets inserted first which puts the brass end at the rear of the trans. The shop manual doesn't say except it does say that the rail should be installed from the rear.
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The transmission cover plate was missing when I bought my B3B, but I found one in very good shape on eBay. Only problem is that the plate came from a '48, '49, or '50 and has the oblong hole in it for a floor mounted emergency brake handle. My '51's e-brake handle is under the dash. Does anyone have a photo of a transmission cover plate without that hole. Did Dodge put a plug into the hole for the last three years or simply stamp plates without the hole. I want to know how it should look if I decide to weld it up.
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hello all, I have a 1933 Dodge DP 6 with a 1953 Dodge 230ci engine, the stock transmission in the vehicle is a 3 speed with no-syncro's and not very good shifting sounds. it either must be rebuilt or will be replaced with a new updated transmission. I am not familiar with what to do in this scenario. is there anyone who can help me find the correct transmission adapter plate and transmission to go with? I have been told to go with a t5 transmission and an adapter plate, but am not sure where I can find these items. I would like to keep the flat head 6 but due to the irritating time trying to find the correct parts that will bolt onto the engine, I am considering full tear down of drive train and install a new mopar v8 setup. but would rather stick with flathead just cant find the correct parts to go with. all help is appreciated. (sorry if this has been asked, I could not find anything relating to this topic)
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I have a 34 Plymouth that has a 1940 Dodge (D-14) engine in it. The transmission cross member has been hacked up and a welded to the frame cross member (maybe from the 40 Dodge) installed. Is there a way to identify which transmission I have and which bell housing I have? Bell housing is Cast Number 692605-5 (34, 40?). Transmission is now out of car.
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Picked up a really nice 51 Coronet Gyromatic w/ 230 Flathead. I’m 3rd owner, 10K original miles. Looking to put in a Gen 1 hemi and a vintage BW T-85 3 speed column shift.... more or less trying to make it a 50s correct Hot Rod. (Yes... doing up the Flathead is still in consideration ). Question is, will I have to replace the whole column or will the column for the Gyromatic be able to link right up? I’m thinking no as the column for the Gyromatic has R, 1(H&L) & 2(H&L)... and nothing for a 3rd gear. Yup... I’m THAT guy... so my apologies if someone has to explain or revisit AGAIN. Thanks for any help!!! Tips on 50s correctness are welcomed too! Again, thanks & happy upcoming New Year! hoop
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Quick transmission question on a '48 D24 with fluid drive (stock). Everything works great, 1- R shift is smooth & quiet as is the 2-3 shift. When I come out of 1st gear on the way to 2nd I get a noise, sort of like a clunk, at varying degrees of intensity. I just changed what I am pretty sure must have been the original gear oil in the transmission & rear. It seems to have helped & I continue to shift through the gears in an effort to work the new gear oil into everything. I still have to clean & lubricate the shift linkage. Anything else I should consider? Could this be a shift linkage wear or adjustment issue?
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From the album: Stx123
Having a problem putting shifter rods back together correctly. Right now I have no reverse. If anyone has a pic, or knows the correct way, that info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you -
On a B4B, how does one tell if it equipped fluid drive? Thanks!
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I'm trying to stay with all original engine colors so I'm wondering about the various engine and transmission parts colors. Here's what I think the colors should be... (but some are pure guesses on my part)... Black: 1. Oil Filter Canister / 2. Crankcase Ventilation Tube / 3. Distributor / 4. Front Motor Support Bracket / 5. Fan / 6. Oil Pan / 7. Emergency Brake Drum Argent (Silver): 1. Block / 2. Head / 3. Oil Pump / 4. Water Pump / 5. Bell Housing / 6. Transmission / 7. Dip Stick Tube Did I miss anything?
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The clutch throwout bearing went on my Wayfarer. I need to have the transmission pulled to fix that obviously. Here's my question. The synchronizer gear is worn so I can't shift from 2nd the 3rd without the gears grinding unless I shift as a snails pace. I am wondering if someone can recommend a shop or person that rebuilds these 3 speeds as long as I am pulling it? I thought I read something on here a couple years back but my search did not bring it up. Minnesota would be nice but I guess I could ship it if I have to.
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New to this stuff: I just got a 56 Truck and I want replace the stock 3 speed flathead 6 with a 360 Mopar and overdrive. Will I have to change the differential? What else will I have to change? I am trying to estimate the total cost to do this. thank you for your help
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First off, forgive me that I'm new to all this. I'm learning as I go. Had a bad clutch chatter in my '47 Plymouth and am replacing the rear main seals and clutch. I ordered a new clutch disc from Bernbaum but the new one has a deeper offset than my original and doesn't seat properly in the pressure plate. I looked on the forums and for other online images and haven't found another that looks similiar to the one that I have. I am wondering if I just need to order another pressure plate or find a different clutch. The clutch that came out is a 9 1/4. Also, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if there is any sort of plug or cap that is supposed to go on the transmission where it bolts up. I got a new seal and it has a hole around the opening and it seems to me like there should be, but again, I have zero experience and the manual doesn't show anything. Thanks! Dan
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I know this topic is discussed frequently, but I really don't seem to be finding the information I am looking for. I am wondering what "simple" options there are for transmission swaps for my 50 Dodge Coronet 230 flat head. I know there is the S-10 T5 option, and so far I am leaning in that direction. What I would like to find out is if there are other transmissions that will work as as an easy swap. I'm not too concerned about power loss if there is a viable automatic that is essentially bolt in- Cant be worse the the gyro-matic! I am keeping the internal motor stock, but thinking about a dual carb and split exhaust. I want to leave it 6volt as well. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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Hi Folks, As I stated in my introduction, I’m in the planning stages of a ‘40s-style hop up based on a Dodge Brothers roadster and using 90%+ period MoPar content. After missing out on a complete engine / trans setup from a ‘38 Dodge passenger car, I’ve started thinking about other sources for a floor-shift 3-speed for this project. 1938 Dodge engine and trans I was already planning to use the steering box, column, and wheel from a Job Rated truck, and it occurred to me that these vehicles used floor-shift boxes as well. 1942 Dodge truck floor shifter Were the ‘39-‘47 truck three-speeds related to the ‘37-‘38 passenger-car boxes? How do the ratios compare? Can you swap parts around? Any help is appreciated! Regards, Dave
