rustyzman

Check out this link at Unity Mfg. This is the complete list back to 1929 I believe. If the info is not there, just call them, they were very nice last time I called. http://unityusa.3dcartstores.com/assets/images/168-Complete01-06-11.pdf

Gotta mic the journals first. Ideally, you should check the clearance on all the bearings when you reassemble, just to be sure they are right. Sucks to find out something is wrong after assembly and installation. Better to know now. Totally possible that you have a misboxed bearing or that the crank is not ground correctly on that journal. Plastigage is another good idea.

If the trans is in neutral, clutch stuck or not really makes no difference unless the trans input shaft is frozen, which is unlikely. Classic test would simply be a bench test of the starter. Pull it, clamp is solidly in a vise and hook up a good battery. If it is sluggish to turn, you found your problem. As for rusted stuck clutch, the right way is removal. You may get it free with some work, but the flywheel surface, pressure plate surface and splines will likely be corroded and need cleaning/surfacing. If your trans has a vent, then water could be in there too. Does not hurt to drain it and refill. Good luck!

If pressurization is an issue, just gut the vacuum valve (spring loaded brass valve in the middle of the cap lower gasket, or dingling one depending on what part number you have) off the new cap and you will have a non pressure cap. We used to remove them for burping out newer cars a while back after coolant services (we put the regular cap back on afterwards, so no hack work here). It should solve that issue nicely. Just an idea. Anyone notice if they make an aluminum one for the trucks?

The people at Unity are very nice to deal with. I bought a NOS one for my caprice on ebay and had to get the mounting kit direct from Unity. My mounting/drilling pattern was not in the box as I chose the door mount instead of the A pillar, so a quick phone call and they sent it out to me. Nice quality stuff. Most all the spotlights I have encountered in my travels have been Unity. Could just be that they are right here in Chicago. Nice addition to a vehicle. Makes a killer driving light on country roads in the dark of night. You can aim it a bit off the side to catch the glow of the deer's eyes so you can prepare before it jumps in front of you.

Had a friend years ago that had one. He got pulled over for driving it on a residential street (exceeding weight limit). As I understand it, he convinced the officer that it weighed less than 5 tons and got out of the ticket!

Coke will dissolve rust, albeit slowly. Phosphoric acid will do it faster. Basically the same thing in Coke that dissolves the rust, but in high concentration. Buy concrete cleaner for $15/gallon and try it. Flow it in with a small pump and catch it in a pan. It will take a couple few days to really dissolve substantial rust and will leave a black oxide in its place. I have a 5 gallon bucket of it for dipping parts. Be sure if you use acid that you are only working on ferrous metals, as it will disolve some others (bearings maybe?). Ask me how I know (fuel filter bracket from my old 240Z went in with more than it came out with, oops). Don't get it on the cement, it will eat it. Be aware that if you have used or will use that much heat on the block, you may have align boring issues on the cam and crank. Just a thought. Good luck.

Roberts motor parts is a start. Floorboards are going to be a fabrication job from what I have seen. I need some glass as well on my '54. On the dodgeclassictrucks.com website he has this note on the C1 windshield "The C1 glass number is DW333, and I have it on order from Iowa Glass Depot for $363." I have not checked that out for verification though.

Yes, in fact I found mine to be loose upon disassembly. The ring gear would actually slide a touch on the carrier because of it. I had some slight wear on the bolts and carrier as a result and reassembled them with Loctite sleeve retainer on the bolt shank and Loctite red on the bolt threads along with the staking washers. I have only a couple of miles on it since, so no long term reports on longevity. Absolutely torque them to spec and stake the washers to the flat, preferably on two faces where possible. Highly recommend Loctite on the threads as those little washers will do little in the long run to prevent this from happening again. If you have the threaded carrier, please check that the radial locking pins are secure. Mine had one that had exited the carrier at some point and put a serious dent into the casting. I suppose it stopped the wheels dead as well when it happened (before my time).

Check on ebay for that guy moparkenan in Istanbul Turkey. I recall in the past he had a couple of different chains and gears. As in, possibly with and without groove and such. An email to him may be worth your time. That guy has always got a bunch of old mopar stuff for sale. Makes you wonder what all he really has out there Turkey.

On a conventional serviceable tapered wheel bearing setup it is normal to have a little rocking play in the wheel. Always err on the slightly loose side with tapered wheel bearings, never tight.

When I called i inquired about them making 19.5"s because anything smaller will not clear my rear drums. Still plan to do them, but will modify some to fit myself.

That was me. I just did the 4:10 in my '54 1 ton and bought the spider gear and shaft kit from VPW. Though the part numbers in my MoPar parts book differ from PW to truck, they were exactly the same. It was NOS military stuff, packed in several different layers of packaging with lots of cosmoline. The carrier bearings on mine turned out to be the same as some trailer wheel bearings, so they were readily available from multiple sources. Pinion bearings were good so I did not search them out. Also, my pinion seal was an exact match from VPW, just measured the OD of the seal where it meets the housing (3.5" maybe?). VPW said that if the parts did not fit I could return them minus a stocking charge of like 20%. I felt that was more than fair and did not have to return anything.

Stockton had previously quoted me $250 each if I bought 6. 6-8 weeks lead time. Also note, they would not be coined wheels, so the stud centering issue with the coined depressions will require some thought and modification.

My heart goes out to you. I have been there. I have two now that mean the world to me and my wife. Our best friends are never forgotten.

Cut a few brands open sometime and you will be suprized at the differences. I did this at work for a customer display. Big differences inside (less filter material, bypass valve construction, etc...) Best filter for my money is WIX. Professionally, that is what I used. Personally, sometimes the orange ones end up on my car (occasionally price wins out). They are inferior, though. My opinion, FWIW.

Nice work. I can personally appreciate the hand made work. Love that tall bottle jack in the first couple pictures to. Gotta find one of them somewhere.

As I recall, Proto is part of the Stanley/MAC/Blackhawk/FACOM family of tools. I have many Proto tools and think they are of fine quality. I love my Proto torque wrenches, excellent feel and compact design. Some of the old brands I liked were Kraeuter, Peck Stowe and Wilcox (PEXTO), Mustang, Fleet, Sherman Klove-Wayne (SK), Diamalloy, Herbrand, Williams, Bonney, Armstrong and BON-E-CON just to name a few. Lots of good old companies out there, though many are gone now.

Right on the money Dave72dt. Most tools won't last in a professional environment. Every time I go to sears here they give me a hard time about warranty. Also, don't ever try to warranty wearing a work uniform, chances are they will deny it. The SK Tuff1 fine tooth ratchets are the best I have owned. Same ranking for the FACOM fine tooth as they have a very similar mechanism. SK and FACOM partnered for a while and the product benefitted. Now FACOM is partnered with MAC and they have the same ratchet head design (round head with a black serrated ring for direction change). Try one, you will not be disappointed. Snap On is hit or miss. I personally really don't care for their traditional ratchet. However, I have a short handle flex 3/8" that is fantastic and a micro 1/4" that I have never found an equal to. Bought a Great Neck fine tooth long flex handle that is of very good quality and strength. Still have many craftsman ratchets and other tools as well with no plans to remove them from service. Just some thoughts.

If that master is similar to mine, then mounting will require adaptation to the truck as it is two holes, as well as a spacer as the rod from the original will be quite a bit too long. Herr Otto, I'll take those two valves if you still have them for sale. Email me with a total price and how you would like to be paid and it will be done. Thanks. rustyzman@yahoo.com

I could not get the link to work for me, but... The line connected to the larger reservoir is for the front brakes. Likely the one closest to the actuating rod. You may very well have the same master I have. Mine fits 70's to early 80's GM products, 4 wheel drum 1 ton. 1 1/4" bore, both circuits. I have noticed on mine as well that my rear brake action is not as powerful as I would like. However, I also have to break in my linings a bit more before I call it bad. I have plenty of pedal stroke as well with no binding in my adapter. Interested to see what you find with yours. Could you also post the NAPA part number?

Really poor condition, but still kind of a rare bird. (or ram, whatever) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-refrigerated-ice-cream-truck-1954-Dodge-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c1666139dQQitemZ120634872733QQptZUSQ5fCarsQ5fTrucks

I hear ya! First trip around the block was a couple months ago. That is the kick I needed to really rev up and get it to the car show last week. Finished or not, just getting on the road for a short jaunt is a great feeling. Keep going!

If the spline is rusted in place, copious amounts of PB blaster or your personal favorite penetrating oil is where I would start. Many people lubed the splines on the trans during clutch service so usually they seem to come off the disc. Some careful prybar action between the trans and the bellhousing with the bolts out may also prove helpful. Usually the disc gets stuck to the flywheel and the pressure plate face first and the pressure plate rusts up to the point that is won't release. Hopefully you won't have to go too ape on it for it all to start breaking free. Even if the engine turns, without getting the spline from the input shaft out of the disc, removing the pressure plate bolts won't get you far as it will all still be trapped in the bellhousing. Worst case, pull the engine and trans together and start working on it on the ground. Good luck and be careful.

I ran into that on a customers 51 Chevy pickup which he brought in for me to make road worthy. Mice had made a nest in the bellhousing and it turned the clutch into a seriously rusty mess. There is a pan underneath that you can unbolt for access to the pressure plate, etc. If you have rusty water coming out, chances are everything is rusted. Pull that pan and see what you have. Likely, you will be pulling the trans and going through the clutch.