rustyzman

Just looking for opinions on what a legitimate redline speed on the stock 230 would be. My manual says 3000 RPM, but would like to know what others have experienced in reality. I know exceeding that limit is not recommended, particulary with this being an undersquare engine with a really long stroke but what do you all run them at? For now, I'll set the HyFire rev limiter to 3000, and maybe modify that number if I prep the engine for more. Remember, its bone stock and I am not looking to race it or anything (that would be funny to see). Just looking for opinions.

I should think a full service machine shop could bore out the axle and fabricate a sleeve that would be pressed in. Then ream the sleeve to the king pin size for proper interference fit. Being a reverse elliot type axle, as you said the only bushings are in the knuckle/spindle. Since the bushings have already been installed and reamed, it should all fit like a dream after that. The axle beam itself should not be loose on the pin. The bolt really should be more of a locating device than anything. Old age and not enough grease perhaps.

Nice. In Illinois if you have not plated a vehicle for about 10 years, they purge the system and your vehicle is bumped from all records. This can be a good thing is some cases. Always helps to call and see if they have a record of your serial number. Good to hear you'll be on the road soon!

That will be a BadA** ride. Gotta love classic style with a margin of modern safety.

That truck is crazy shiny. Did you catch the clear reflection of the guy taking the pictures in the hubcaps? Nice resto, but for that money it would need to be a lot more perfect for me, no paint runs, sunpro gauges, dented horn, etc. Still a really nice looking truck.

The wheels you bought are drop center for tubeless tires. They will not fit over the one ton drums. I measured them to do some wheel searching myself for my C1D which has the same problems with the two piece wheels and rust. My measurements show that I will be going with 19.5's if I can successfully modify them, make spacers for the front and make adapters to convert the system from stud centered to hub centered. The diameter of the inside of a tubeless GM P30 19.5 with 10 lug 7.25 bolt circle looks like it will clear the drum. I have to chuck it up and the mill, weld some holes shut and make some new ones for a mock up to make sure this rim is a suitable candidate. The drop center rim refers to how the center of the rim has a valley that pokes down towards the drum so you can insert the bead of the tire in there to remove it. Those rear drums are just awful big for those little wheels these trucks have. Stockton's price is just too big for my budget at this time. The biggest problem you will have if you try to make spacers will be wheel studs. An adapter with integral studs will be required because you won't find replacements that are long enough to make up that 2" difference. I have searched and found the only suitable replacement, which requires a little lathe and mill work, is only 1/2" longer than stock and right hand thread only. Could be a tough project, but anything can be done if you put your mind to it. Maybe Stockton will work with you on getting different wheels, especially if they said these will fit.

Thanks all. The grill was the same faded blue as the rest of the truck when it got home, obscured by a large heavy grill guard and a spare tire mounted quite off center. This was a 2 minute attempt at making a temporary improvement with a spray can. I think once restored though it will likely stay a similar color with maybe some careful detail work in the center in another color. Lots of time to decide on that. Rust is very relative to me as I worked as a mechanic/bodyman/fabricator for a while on Datsun Z cars (hence the name) and grew very accustomed to rust repair. Plus I still work in the field and in Chicago everything rusts (even my driveway under the front bumper!). I could not resist getting this truck. The price was really right at $227.50 and I have desperately wanted an old 1 ton plus stake bed to replace my late 240Z for a while. Tired of doing all the work and fixing them for others and never getting to enjoy the results. Anyway, lots of pictures are being taken of all the steps in the resto process and I am writing a blog about it so I don't forget the details as time goes on. Figure a few years before it is halfway decent and the rest of my life spent tweaking ought to do it. Plus it gets to live in the garage this year so its life expectancy will go up quite a bit.

Second on the keeper holding tool. I know I have at least one of those to make L heads easier. OHV is no issue, even head on car, but an L head needs that extra hand.

Man, I used to be great with catalogs. Big long racks with the catalog name printed on the edge. Handwritten notes in the pages for corrections and additional info we felt we needed. I kick myself for throwing away so many as new ones came out. Not that my stuff was super old, but we easily had books referencing back to the 60's. The key now is to know the right guys at the parts stores. I have a few guys in a couple of parts houses that kept lots of old paper and can find things. Also have numbers for a few manufacturer reps that can sometimes help. Not a lot of old school parts stores left though. Here where I work we are all computer based cataloging now. We are on the service side, not the parts side but we look up all our own parts. It can be great if you know where to look. Worst case we can still call the W/D's and see if they can find them. Even the dealer cataloging isn't what it used to be on older stuff. If it does'nt have a 17 digit VIN many say they can't even look something up. Sad changes. It would be great to upload old catalogs to something like the Old Car Manual Project. That would be really helpful.

Lets try this one. This is Forrest the truck and one of my dogs Snickers as it stands currently. This truck is a project of mine and my wifes.

Working on a picture to post.

True that the force of buoyancy is a function of the volume of the float, but the more weight on the float, the lower it will rest naturally. Just as a loaded ship sits lower in the water than the same ship unloaded. That was my only point.

I pulled this info off my Blog so excuse the writing style. This is all for my 54 so I can not say what is correct for other years. Pictures I have seen show what looks to be the same odd rear brakes on the Pilothouse one tons as well. I don't have my factory parts book here for any additonal part numbers but I have not been able to cross reference those to anything new. Front shoes are 11″ by 2″ FMSI number Shoe 98 drawing 1550 catalog ref. no 192. Everyone seems to list these as part number 98 (TS98 at NAPA, though not available, BS98 on ebay, etc...) These were located at Kanter auto products/Packard industries. Front wheel cylinders are Dorman 17789 1 3/8″, new manufacture. Very reasonably priced, can be had by anyone who deals in Dorman. Got mine at Rock Auto. Rear shoes are 14.13″ by 2″ FMSI number Shoe 107 drawing 1765 catalog ref. no 1224. This was an ebay find in Grey Rock brand that was listed for a Pilothouse era truck. Rear wheel cylinders. These were tough. All current manufacturer catalogs and older paper catalog listings I could find have them listed wrong. All the info I could find currently calls for 1 3/8″ or 1`1/2″ bore cylinders depending on “early or late L140 axle”. This is what the catalogs say. This is completely wrong! The correct wheel cylinder on the rear of this truck per original factory info is 1 1/8″ bore. Now, I can say for a fact (I ordered and returned all the listings I could find) that the 1 3/8″ and the 1 1/2″ wheel cylinders will physically fit the backing plate as will the front ones fit on the rear, but I guarantee you will have a lower pedal when you are done and the braking bias front to rear will be off. In no modern catalog of major manufacturers is there a replacement for this that I could find. Maybe there is one out there, but no listing exists for the part number. The factory part number also does not cross over to anything. Luckily, Kanter/Packard had them, part number 17741. I could not locate this part number in any current new manufacturer line either. In case you are wondering, I could not have the rears sleeved because there was one 1 3/8″ cylinder on the left rear and a stepped bore 1 1/4″-1`3/8″ cylinder (Power Wagon Maybe?) on the right. I have not been able to locate new replacement drums at any source. Time will tell if this will be an issue. Lines will all be replaced with NiCopp alloy line. I bought them from Lee Auto Parts/Autowares. Any Bumper to Bumper retailer can get this. It is distributed by AGS under the PartsMaster name. Part number is CNC425PM for 1/4″ 25′ roll and CNC325PM for 3/16″ 25′ roll. It is less money than Cunifer line and easier to get. I will do them once and never have to do them again. This stuff is for life and very easy to work with. Hope this helps a little.

Thanks! Dodge trucks are obviously not as common as some others and finding a community like this is an indispensable resource. Thus far my research has been from industry contacts, factory parts and service manuals and The Hollander along with spotty internet info. Nice to find a Mopar forum that understands and accepts the vehicles built before the muscle car days. Great to be a part of the group. I will have to get some picture in my photobucket to post. My baby looks rough now, but I can already see the diamond!

Hi all, new guy to the forum here. I have a 54 C1D one ton stake bed and was wondering if posting in the Pilothouse catagory about my truck is considered OK or not since it is beyond a 53. The 54-55 seems to be a bit of a bastard child truck with some differences to both those that came before and those that came after and I need a home to post in! Hope it is OK and you all accept my truck here. If not, just say so and I will bow out gracefully. I am working on a slow but methodical restoration on my baby as it needs lots of TLC. Thanks for the consideration!

If the float is brass and was full of gas, you really could just find the hole (the original one as well as the one he drilled) and solder it shut to make it airtight again. Brass is very receptive to solder and would have been soldered originally. Try not to overdo the solder though as you don't want to upset the float weight too much. If it is plastic, then perhaps some gas tank epoxy could help? Just some thoughts.

I am in the process of the same on my 54. Located proper wheel cylinders for my fronts in Dorman at Rock Auto, about $35 each new. Front shoes and correct rear wheel cylinders were from Packard Industries/Kanter for $48 shoes and $64 each wheel cylinders (wholesale). Rear shoes were an ebay find. Will be converting to a dual master from a 70's one ton van if all goes well and all new lines in NiCopp line. Those floating rear shoes with the Budd drums are very unique. If need be I can supply the part numbers I used and the FMSI numbers for the linings if that helps, may be same as what you need, not sure.

Painting the 0 deg or whatever mark you wish with high visibility gun sight paint works wonders. Really helps brighten up the mark when the strobe hits it. Just a thought.