steveplym

We have the same problems down here. The county I live in is ranked in the top ten of jobless residents. Coal mines shut down 15 years ago and the factory jobs are starting to leave as well. I live in a town of about 6500 people. We've got the wally world and mickey d's. That's about the biggest industry we have. It's all a trade off I guess like Ryan suggested.

Pretty much the same thing down here in Illinois. If you get used to the high taxes, high utility bills, and low income as well as the jobless market, it will work out great! I bought a large manufactured home with above ground pool, 3 car garage and large lot for 85k. Last house I owned was a 3 bedroom, 2 bath, on a small lot. Just sold it for $43k.

Wondering if it is possible all the Dodge's came with U-joints or is this a rare coincidence. I have access to a '48 dodge sedan parts car, it's about 1 1/2hr away from me and wondered if it would be worth looking into. Most of these had the same setup driveline wise as Plymouth right?

Wow. Just turned on the newschannels. Crazy stuff. Need to pray for the victims and their families. Just another reminder of how short life really is, and anything can happen.

Shel, I had lots of problems with spyware and adware. Tried all the applications you have including Mcaffee which did no good either. I've been using Panda antivirus for the past two years and have not had any trouble since. I've had to take the computer in to be cleaned off on occasion. Not since I installed panda. http://www.pandasoftware.com It's about $50/yr for their service and it updates every day. There are a few other good virus services out there as well.

It's nice when things can be fixed easy and simple. Glad you got that figured out.

I painted my chebby truck with sherwin williams acrylic enamel. Did not have any problems and laid down like glass. Wet sanded and buffed as well. It sanded real good after a few days of hardening. Buffed out smooth. I imagine I'll paint the '47 acrylic single-stage as well if and when I repaint it. I wasn't scared of the c/c, sprayed it many times before. I do agree that it is a bit better system. I just didn't want to pay the extra cash for it. Here's a pic.

While we are on the topic of paints. I wondered if anyone has seen the new paint shop lacquer from dupli-color, or tried it. Looks like it is about $20/qt. Would need to put on a clearcoat afterward and comes in several colors. Might be worth trying.

Mr. Wirth from Prarie Du Rocher is a great guy. Always tries to help you out with whatever you need and very knowledgeable. I see him often at shows. Purchased peep mirrors and air cleaners from him recently.

Looks real good John. I repainted my trim pieces with the red paint not to long ago. Used some modeling paint and a brush. Hubcaps and rear stop lamp bezel turned out real nice. These cars look so much better with the trim on them. Really brings out the paint.

Bob, I only saw one p-15 there this year. Maybe there was more, but there were so many cars I did not get to see all of them. I did not see any of the ones you have pictures of there. The one I saw was candy apple red. I'm heading over to Frog Follies Street rod show in Evansville, IN. in a month. Will remember to take my camera as lots of p-15's there last year.

I had the same problems last year with my '47. Would miss on deaccleration and run very rich at times. Had Wyoming carb rebuild the carb and have not had any problems since. I replaced the points, condenser, vac advance, and plugs before finally breaking down and rebuilding the carb. Runs real good now.

I agree with Tim. I would test it on an old hood or other part and see what it does. Might come out just fine. Won't know until you try.

I went to my first Goodguys event this year in Nashville. Really enjoyed all the cars and vendors. Of course, didn't get any pics . Maybe next year I'll remember my camera! This weekend gonna take the p-15 to a local cruise. Supposed to be nice weather here, as cool as it has been here this month August may be a hot one.

It would be best to spray on a metallic paint. If you do spray it on, don't make the mistake I did and use an hvlp gun. Worked good on parts that were vertical, but on flat surfaces, such as a hood made long heavy streaks in the paint.

....and if a tree falls in the forest and nobody hears it. Did it really make a sound? I aligned the "plymouth" letters on all the wheels and drove it, they were off a bit too. Went to a cruise night last saturday and my buddy said "How'd you get the hubcaps to line up like that?" They went back to being aligned. I was never good at math, so I'm not going to worry about it.

The floorboard. Eric, Yeah, I'd probably do the brakes then go for the belts. Better your car stops safely first rather than you being safely buckled in.

I installed a set of lap belts in the '47 yesterday. Took photos for all to see how I did it. I used grade 8 bolts to bolts them to the floor with over sized washers I used for plates. For the front seat I cut holes in the seat frame for the belts to go thru. Put protective tape around the holes so they wouldn't cut into the belt. Put the bottom cushion back in and seat belts work fine. Only partial issue I had was working around the muffler bolted to the pass side. Jacked up the car and was able to get under it far enough to get the nuts and washers on. Back seat was much easier. No frame to cut, just bolt the belts down to the floor. Later found out that it was harder to get the seat back in as the mounts on the belts stuck up a bit and made it harder for the bottom of the seat to clear and slide back into place properly. Now I can safely take my wife and 3 year old daughter to the cruise nights, parades, etc. Always wanted to take her before, but now I know she should be safer in the back seat buckled in. Ordered the seat belts from A Plus Rod and Kustom in Indiana. $50 for a set of four any color you want with $10 shipping. These are made by auto-loc. Photobucket album for all the pics of the install: http://s167.photobucket.com/albums/u122/siufan6/seat%20belt%20install/

That '47 coupe is pretty nice. $12k is not a bad price if it is a nice as the seller says it is. Really like the two-tone paint and the way it sits.

Thanks for the replies. I just rebuilt my driveshaft a few years ago, but would like the modern u-joints next time I do that. All is ok for the moment, just wondered if there were options out there the next time it needed serviced.

Is there a way to change my shaft on the p-15 over so I can use U-joints? Seems I have read somewhere on here before where someone has done this. Is there a driveshaft off a newer car that will fit, or parts available to change it over? Thanks for any help in advance.

Pretty cool design. Would be great until the battery went dead or the door mechanism was broken. Then how would they get the door open.

Piggott, AR. I was there two months ago for the supercruise. Neat town and very cool cruise. I should have taken my camera there were a few p-15's there. Too bad you drove there for nothing. That is the way all these projects start out I guess. Several years ago I went to look at a '53 chevy truck project. Lady who answered the phone told me "It runs real good". When I got there pieces of this truck was laying all over the yard and the motor was in the bed. So much for running good. Good luck on your continued search. No bad luck here yet, knock on wood.

I've been having problems with the oil filter on my P-15 for a few years. It kept leaking on me, so I went with a disposable one from Andy B. Looking to put a canister back on the car. Anybody know where I can find another one, or have an extra? The one I had must have been bent, because changed gaskets and put it back together tight, but kept leaking. Made too big of a mess to keep playing with it.

I would always remove the old filler. You never know what is under that filler or how the surface was prepared before it was put on. I myself would sand the car with a DA with about 80 grit and the new filler will adhere with those scratches well. Personally I've had bad experiences with lacquer primer in the past. It sands real easy, but does not have much filling characteristics. Use an epoxy primer before final finish. I have had really good luck with fill primers that come with a hardener. They work really well before top coat, but are pricey. A good epoxy primer such as Evercoat is priced fair and is a good primer.