steveplym
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6 Volt Postive Ground Electronic Ignition
steveplym replied to Norm's Coupe's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I thought I saw a thread recently where someone contacted petronix to see if there was an ignitor kit available. I sent them an e-mail to see if they had a application for the P-15 model. Has anyone found an ignitor kit that will work with 6v neg ground? If the 6v pos ground generator was replaced with a 6v neg ground alternator would there be an application that would work? -
6 Volt Postive Ground Electronic Ignition
steveplym replied to Norm's Coupe's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Is this available from Crane anymore Norm or would it be an item you would have to find on ebay or at a swap meet? Would be interested in one if I could find one. -
Yes James I'm going to keep this crank to use a a spare if needed in the future. I knew this crank could be built up to be used again, but it slipped my mind to ask the machine shop, or they did not wish to do so. If I need another crank in the future I can always get this one repaired. I hope it is more than 10 years before I have to pull this engine again once it is put back in the car. Last time this was rebuilt in 1996 it was driven for two years before the rod bearing spun. Hope I don't have to go thru that again. Your experiences worry me a bit, but what else can you do. If this happens again may be sbc time for me.
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Neat photos. Nice backdrop. Looks like it is still warm where you live.
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Neat car Reg. Bet that was $1,500 well spent in 1949. What kind of plans do you have for it?
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This machine shop, which is very reputable, advised me that it would be fine going that far over. I had my doubts. Especially after speaking with people on the forum and other mopar owners. They really did not offer that to me. Wasn't given to me as an option. Oh well, just pulled the motor out of the plymouth that needed rebuilt, used that crank, and it will get a new motor soon. Didn't have to spend hardly any extra money at all. Just a days worth of knuckle bustin' and cursing pulling out that motor.
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Well Tim it is good as in much better than the one I was originally going to have ground. After the rod bearing rolled on the original crank they wanted to turn it .050 over on mains and .060 over on rods. This crank has apparently not been ground since it was assembled in 1945. It was showing a bit of wear. I should have taken photos of the journals and the teardown, but I was in such a hurry to get the motor out and the garage cleaned up as we will be having thanksgiving dinner there Thursday. Only place we fit all of the family members. Don't want to miss out on the pumpkin pie.
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Well the machine shop called and advised me I have a good crank from a 218. They are going to grind it .010 over. I've ordered the bearings and gasket set from kanter. Pete, if this crank would have been unusable I would have probably checked into the 230 route as I have a friend with a 230 I could probably pick up for a couple hundred bucks. Like you said an easy way to make a few more ponies. It's a relief this worked out. Plus I've still got a spare engine for parts. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Very useful and helpful info. Thanks Jim.
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Welcome to the site Wayne. Good looking '48, nice find there. Don't know much about #802 radios as have not worked on one myself. There are several people on this site who should be able to answer your questions. Another P-15 owner David Maxwell posted a link to an fm converter he is using in his car and I saved the link. He had a thread about this several months back, may want to search for it. Here's the link to the part: http://www.casmfg.com/Accessories.htm
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Well, I ended up pulling the motor out of the p-15 and taking it apart yesterday. Crankshaft in this engine looks pretty good, but will have it checked and turned. Tag on the side of the engine states "For Parts Specify Mopar 218". Casting date is 8-14-45. Heading to machine shop tomorrow. Will keep my fingers crossed.
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Unfortunately the car is not here and is at a relatives house and having him tell me what the #'s on the motor are. Explained in detail what I wanted again and found the #'s to be listed under the A as 1-14-45. That makes more sense. Would this be a military surplus engine?
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Yeah, those are the only #'s I could find on this block. The 218 block has a date noted in the year 1946. Will have to look again.
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Just looked at the engine and # behind the Dist is AS1445. ID# is PJ1414. Any ideas?
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I'll check that Ed. Pete, don't really want to swap out the pistons and rods as they are brand new. Will need to find another 218 crank to save a few bucks. Seems either way I go I'm stuck in a money pit.
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The only question I have is that this has a PJ in the engine id #. This means it is a '35 Plymouth engine, but there is a tag on the side of the engine that states to use only parts for a 218 in this engine. Would this be correct and this is not actually a 201 engine, but a 218?
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Neil also said he does not recommend going over .030 on main bearings. Looks like my only choice right now is to pull the engine in the car and pull the crank out of it. It is a 201, but should work. Will need to see what shape it is in. Never had any problems with it. I love these old plymouths, but working on them can get frustrating at times.
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Sonic is really good. My personal favorite is the extra long cheese coney dogs. Also makes a good place to hang out with your old car buddies.
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Thanks Norm.
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Yeah i figured shipping would be the deal breaker. May have to find one close enough to pick up if possible. Got an e-mail for Neil?
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Usually the seat does not break in half or the seat mount fail. What happens is that the back of the seat may break from the force of stopping and your body being driven backwards. Recliner seats are the culprits, but almost all cars have seats that recline in them these days. The splines usually strip out and you have to either replace them with a used seat or a new one if available. My Dakota has a solid headrest that would keep my head from hitting the window and I thought the older models did too. Although I had a '93 with a bench seat once that had a small headrest and would not protect your head from hitting the back window.
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Lee glad to see your okay. I agree with Greg and it probably will not be totaled. One thing you could do if they write to fix it is to fix the things you need to drive it and pocket the rest of the cash. Always an option sometimes people don't know they have. Being an older truck may be something you would want to do. Greg, as an adjuster I've seen many seats break on rear impacts. Usually a pretty common thing on hard hits. Always have to consider the size of the passenger, etc. Unfortunately the manufacturer will not do anything about it.
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Having a hard time finding .040 main bearings. Called and spoke with vintage power wagons and talked to a guy there who advised me that he would not recommend going over .030 as it will chew them up. Machine shop thinks it won't be a problem, but with the high price of these bearings may start looking for another crank. This is a 218 with a casting # on the crank of 952068. According to the book it was used from 1933-1956. Anybody got a good crank they would like to get rid of? Guess I'm gonna have to start looking.
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Ok a little update. Found a set of rods from kanter, but no luck on the .040 main bearings. Called Jim Terrel in Tx and he doesn't have either. Gonna try to call roberts and vintage power wagons next.
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Thanks James, by the way ever get your motor back together?