steveplym

I'm using a newer style thermostat on my 218. Haven't had any problems....yet.

Wow, I think my car is a bit nicer than that. Apparently I need to increase the agreed value on mine. This guy appears to just be an arse like you said Shel, or it is a bogus listing.

Central, Basically what I did was buy the 7 wire turn signal switch. Ran wires for the two frt turn signals out to them and ran the rear turn signals out to rear taillights. My car has double filaments in the rear tail lamps so that was pretty easy. If yours has double filaments you can do the same, or add the double filaments, pretty easy to do. Also the other thing I did was with the double filaments you can run brake lights to the bright side of the side lights as well. The turn signal switch has a wire that is set to run from the brake light switch. I just spliced this wire in to the connector on the other side of the mechanical switch. Kept the middle light wired as well and magically when you press on the brake all three lights light and since it is wired thru the turn signal switch it will send intermittent power to the side you are trying to signal to. That way all the rear lights don't have power to the at all times when the brake lights and turn signal lights are on. The wiring diagram for the a/m signal switch is fairly easy to follow.

Thanks Tim. Good diagram, but I am still having problems figuring it out. I've got it bolted back up, but the clutch rod is longer now than it was before so maybe I have something hooked up wrong. If someone has a good photo of their clutch linkage on a P-15 it might help solve my puzzle.

Happy new year to all!!! Just got the 218 back in the '47. Motor mounts are tightened down and ready to install the tranny and put the clutch linkage back together. Wondering if anyone has a diagram or pic of how the clutch linkage goes back together. This is just a standard three speed. It is basically together, but need to know where and what bolts to the bell housing, etc. I've spent the last few days detailing the engine compartment and painting. I'll post some pics of the progress soon.

I personally like the painted look. Wood graining is nice, but like you said expensive. Once my car is repainted I plan on painting the dash and window trim body color. I think it will add a different look. After I saw pics of 47heavens dash being painted body color I was pretty much sold. I really like that look.

I figured all the daughters Jeep would need is a flathead. That would probably make it a lot more fun for me. Don, that is why it is always good to have a set of old junk spark plugs. Good for painting the engine without risking getting dirt, etc. in the holes.

Got the motor painted today. Went ahead and painted the crank pulley and put it on as well. Will be off work most of next weekend, traveling this weekend so won't get anything done until then. Still need to clean the firewall and inner fenders and paint them single stage black. Also paint radiator and bell housing. Hopefully if all works out will have it back in the car by new years day. If it will run or not will be another story.

My P-15 always does great in parades. Never overheated. Grandpa drove it in 2-3 parades a year from 1980 to 2000 a never had any overheating trouble. They can be hard on clutches, but usually the leg cramps are worth the fun you have. Old car caravans are great. Been driving with our club to several shows in caravans. Nashville, Tn, Memphis, and Evansville are always destinations where we like to travel together. Can help each other out if trouble arises and it's a lot of fun. Always neat to see people pulling up beside you on the interstate to look at your car. I figure if a wreck happens that is what insurance is for. Don't want to wreck the car, but don't want to miss out on the fun either.

I'm starting to finish up my 218 rebuild and put it back in the car. The '47 motor has a crankshaft balancer, the other motor did not. Wondering if it's better to use the balancer or does it matter on these old engines. I know some of the early motors didn't have them. Just wondered who has one on their flathead and who doesn't.

Ed, Not sure what the body shop labor rates are in your area, but most likely a foot long scratch would cost about $200-$300 to fix at a body shop. If the scratch is not too close to adjacent panels there would be no need for blending the color into the other panels. That would make the cost go up. I'd probably pay out of pocket and fix it for your friend. Better than raising your insurance rates and most likely the cost to repair would be below your friends deductible.

Here's a link to a set for sale on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-1955-Blank-Keys-Mopar-Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34205QQihZ002QQitemZ120197446911QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I'm not sure of the numbers, but I purchased a key set on ebay earlier this year and they worked fine. Took them to the local hardware store and had them cut. I think they cost about $12-$14 on ebay. Good thing I had that done too as I only had one set of keys.

Have you got this engine up and running again James?

That make sense James. I purchased these from Kanter. Bearings look great, but appear to be NOS and gov surplus like you said. Once I pulled the bearing halves out of the caps I could see a small indention in the cap, behind the bearing, where the previous bearings had holes in them before this engine was rebuilt. Once I saw that I figured I would be okay. I'm glad you noted your problem on here, because I probably would have made the same mistake.

I received my main bearings and a quick question. I have received a set of bearings that have a oil hole in the upper and lower bearing half, all except the front #1 which only has a hole on the upper side and not the lower. Is this correct? Because if so the guy who built this engine got the wrong bearings. Lower side on the used ones all only have a hole on the upper side. I think James Curl ran into an issue like this that is why I ask.

Happy birthday Tim. I bet that time off will be well spent working on old mopars. Time off work is better than any present in my opinion.

Thanks Tim. One less thing to worry about.

That is the casting number. I was hoping to check the casting number to see if it was a 218. I will have to measure the rods to make sure. The number on my block is a P-15 serial number. Casting date is 10-8-46. This has to be an original 218. Only thing is somebody might have swapped out the crank and rods from a 230, but I doubt it. P-15 would only have 218's right and not 230's? That is Dodges only for those years?

I replaced all the wiring in my car and have had an 8v battery for the last 6 years or so. Only replaced the wiring and voltage regulator recently. I have had really good luck with it as I do not have a radio. Car starts up quick and the generator charges great. Fuel gauge and lights are fine and I have never blown out a headlamp. Now if I buy a 6v alternator I will change back to a 6v battery. It just cranked so slow for me and with an 8v worked better for me and I have not had any problems. Try it if you like. It shouldn't hurt anything, but others have said will blow out your lights faster, haven't had that happen yet.

Welcome Timothy car looks neat. I would think a newer Plymouth engine would be better than the D-11 motor, unless you want an original motor. If it runs good and doesn't smoke much drive it and enjoy it. I was always told if it isn't broke don't fix it. Hard to keep that philosophy when messing with old cars.

Or something that can verify the casting number on the rods I have. The number that is on these rods is 954371. Just need to verify these are 218 rods. Thanks in advance for any help.

I noticed Kanter also has these. I think the price is about the same. I bought mine from Watson street works and am very happy with it.

Check your tail lights central52. If you have signal lights you already have double filaments on the taillights. My '47 had one center brake light for the longest time. Then I put on a new brake light switch. Took the wire on the turn signal switch that went out to the brake switch and connected both those wires to the output side of the brake switch. Both taillights light on the high side thru the turn signal switch and the middle light wire runs directly into the brake light switch. Easy way to get three brake lights.

Getting ready to reassemble my 218 in the next week or so and have a few questions on what to watch for, etc. When installing head is it best to coat the threads of the head bolts with some type of sealant as they go into the water jackets? Silicone, or what type of sealant? Best to coat the crankshaft journals with oil, pre-lube, or stp oil treatment before assembling bearing caps? Any thing to watch out for when installing the main and rod bearings? Also is there any thing to watch when installing rear and front main seals? Thanks for the help, just trying to use the experience of others to save myself from any troubles I can avoid.