steveplym

Thanks for the input Don and Norm. I've been out of town all weekend and hope to continue rewiring it this week. Once it is all rewired I'll be ready to install the switch. I'll take more pics this week as the project continues.

Did not look at Roberts, but Bernbaum has the wheel cyls sold per side. Looks like $49.50 for Front Right and $49.50 for Front Left. If your replacing one wheel cylinder on the right probably a good idea to change the other one, if not all 4 up front. Part # G295 http://www.oldmoparts.com/g.htm

I just received my mechanical brake switch in the mail from Watson street works. I know some of you have installed these on your p-15 to eliminate the hydraulic switch. Does anyone have photos or an explanation as how this can best be installed on a p-15?

I just fixed mine last night as I had the horn wire touching the bottom of the steering box and the horn was on all the time. The shielding on the lower part of the wire had cracked after years of use. I pulled the horn cap and plate. Pulled the wire out of the steering column and spliced and soldered a new wire in place. Pushed the wire back through the column and it came out of the hole in the steering box and I attached it to the horn relay. Really a pretty simple job. I had hooked up a separate push button switch to run the horn and attached that to the column last year when this happened. As much as that wire turns I know there will be a chance it could break again, but at least I'll know how to fix it this time.

Bob, The non-cancelling switch is not a big deal as I already have an older switch in the car that does the same thing. Contacts are worn out on that switch and wires are not good. That is why I am replacing it. I do have a question about the bulb. I guess I will need to replace it with a 6v bulb? Where can I find one of these? I assume use a flashlight bulb? On the radio, all the radio knobs and face are in tact. I guess I should just hook some power up to it and see if it works. If not I'll probably troubleshoot it and see what I need to do to fix it. Thanks for the help.

I received my replacement turn signal switch today that I ordered off of ebay and hope to install in within the next two weeks. My hydraulic brake switch has been giving me fits and by following some of the suggestions on here I called Watson street works and ordered a mechanical switch. Hope to get that installed the next few weeks as well. A neighbor came over and sold me a few 802 radios. They've been sitting a few years, but appear to be in good shape. What are the odds one of these radios may work? Anyone have a wiring diagram or know what wires connect to what? I'd like to add an original radio and wire it into my new harness if possible. Gonna be tough not to be able to drive it for a few weeks, but will be well worth the wait once the project is complete.

Right, there is one from the ignition switch to the flasher and the headlamp switch. Haven't found any others yet. Everything under tape was still in decent shape visibly. The wires that were exposed were pretty crumbly and cracking. Will be a much safer ride when it is finished.

I got up early this morning and pulled the windshield trim and the dash. The job was not too bad at all. Once I took the time to read the manual on how to remove the head light switch knob everything else went pretty smooth. Started by removing all the tape from wiring harnesses so I could better determine what each wire was connected to. So far nothing has been different than the wiring diagram. That has made it much easier. I was able to take the inline fuses apart and rewire them into the new circuits. This makes everything go together much better. I only replaced about 9-10 circuits today. Started out by doing the shorter wires and working my way up to the headlight and horn circuits. I've been going off the gauge on the p-17 wiring diagram and using the same gauge or larger. Using a lot of 10 and 12 gauge. Some 14 gauge on the smaller circuits. Started a photobucket album with some of my progress. Posting a link here and will add to it as time allows me to get back in the garage. Hope everyone had a good holiday weekend! http://s167.photobucket.com/albums/u122/siufan6/Plymouth%20wiring%20project/

I'm getting ready to remove the dash in my P-15 to make it easier to replace the wiring and do some more cleanup and install an original radio while I'm doing it. I was looking at it today and looks like I need to remove a bolt on each side behind the kick panels, drop the steering column, and loosen the center bracket to remove. Is this correct, or is there more? I'm assuming I don't have to remove the trim around the windshield. Those who have done this I would appreciate your help.

I paid $3.27 today, have seen as low as $3.19. Not much lower than that around here.

Check out Roberts Motor Parts http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/car_parts.asp?Action=search&search=body+mounts Others may know of other sources.

Glad you got your gas gauge working. Will be very handy now that gas prices have gone up so high. No need to fill up everywhere you go if you know how much gas you have in the tank.

That is correct. I know that my tank has been painted as well as the mounts, etc. My understanding is that originally the ground came from the tank itself, but after painting the tank, etc. the gauge lost its ground. This is a way to replace that.

Yeah that is correct. If you run a ground wire to #1 or #2 terminal screw that will create a different problem. The screws that hold on the sending unit onto the tank is where you want to connect the wire and run to ground. Pick any of those and run down to the frame, clean off the paint where you connect it too for a good connection. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the frame rail and connected the wire there, ran it up through a hold I drilled in the trunk floor. Be sure to place the ground at the sending unit between the unit and the gasket, not between the gasket and the tank.

Looks like you are really getting into it. Keep the pics coming. I am assuming that is your replacement front that the front sheet metal is sitting on?

I replaced all the brake lines and flex hoses yesterday on my P-15. Really was well worth the work as they had never been replaced. All were showing some wear. Nothing like having that extra piece of mind that you have a better chance of stopping when going somewhere. Much to my surprise I checked the front brakes and all wheel cyls and shoes had been replaced by my grandfather not too long ago and still look new. Thats a big relief. The only leak I have is the line going into the front brake light switch block from the master cylinder. It seems to be leaking a little bit. I have tried to tighten it up some, but it is hard to do as nothing works well to hold that block. Wondering if any of you have had this experience and what you have successfully used to hold the block while tightening the line, without damaging it? I dont want to overtighten the line and damage the block. Any help is appreciated.

My gauge read the same way until I found out one of my wires were damaged and #1 was open. My new motto is "If in doubt, run new wires and check it out".

Well, you wouldn't have to change over to the aftermarket gauge permanently. Just hook it up to make sure your original gauge is reading accurately. Then you would know if you have a overheating problem or a bad temp gauge. I'd just sit the gauge on the fender and hook it up to the outlet on the engine. Let vehicle get up to operating temp in the driveway and see if it reads 212.

Here's a good site for seat belts. Juliano's was mentioned earlier on this thread. I have bought two sets of seat belts from them before and have been very pleased. Most lap belts are reasonably priced at $19.95. Cheap insurance. http://www.julianos.com/catalog.html

Thanks for the help all. What gauge wire is most commonly used for this swap. 16-18ga?, or is that too small a size? I plan on replacing it one section at a time. Want to pull out the dash anyway to repaint so will be a good time to do it.

I'm needing to replace the wiring in my P-15 and wanted to do it myself as I have plenty of wire, connectors, etc. Would be cheaper than buying a wiring kit from Rhode Island, etc. The wiring looks easy enough to replace by looking at the diagram in the manual. Wondering how many others have done this themselves and if there are any problems with replacing the wiring this way?

Yeah, my gauge probably needs to be calibrated too. There was a good explanation of how to do that in a earlier thread.