PT81PlymouthPickup

Are you certain your timing is correct? Advanced timing can cause overheating. Maybe try backing it off a couple degrees to see if it makes a difference. On a 230 crate engine I once had there was a heat shield which bolted to the front exhaust manifold bolt and also to the top of the fuel pump. Might help keep fuel cooler if you don't already have one installed?

It's difficult to find a good oem lower windshield frame section for a decent price. Most of the ones I've seen are severely rusted and require lots of work to restore. Some of the above mentioned venders are now selling brand new windshield frames for a bit over a grand $$$. I wonder if they're any good and how well they fit?

I second the opinion on 3.73! I installed a T5 behind my flathead and used a 3.54 positraction Jeep differential because I had one laying around. With my 16 inch rims and 215/85R16 tires 30.4"dia. It's OK, but too much shifting on hills. The original 4.10 was clearly too low of a ratio to contend with modern traffic. I also had a 3.90 in it for a while which was pretty good but believe the 3.73 is would be the sweetest.

Yeah! Probably made in China!

I mounted a radio / CD player in the glove box around the turn of the century (2000). Ever since then my battery went dead if the truck sat for a couple months. Turns out these high tech (LOLS!) programmable radios draw current all the time. Pretty dumb way to design a car radio if you ask me. Anyhow, I just pull the fuse when I park it. Still annoys me. Had I known before I installed it, I would have found an earlier radio that does not draw current when turned off.

My opinion would be to either rebuild the 201 or perhaps locate a 230 which is the right length. It's a big enough job removing and replacing an original engine. Adding the modifications needed to swap in an engine the vehicle was not designed for can be a can of worms. Best left for the mechanically gifted that have access to fabrication equipment. As Young Ed suggested the starter offset might be one issue. I'm pretty sure that same issue is true with the 230 as well. I rebuilt my 201 many years ago and have been very happy with it in my PT81. With a T5 trans conversion and a 3.73 differential, it easily cruises at 75 mph. Although I rarely go that fast.

Yeah! I was aware of the different tooth count. The ring gear on the 230 has 172. Can't remember the number on the one in my truck. Pretty sure it has less teeth. I was unaware of the offset. Sounds like I better look for one for the 201 and 218 engines.

Anyone know if a flywheel from a 1960s 230 cu. in. Mopar flathead would be the same or usable on the 39-47 Dodge and Plymouth pickups with 201, 218 engines?

Does anyone know if it's acceptable to offer items for free in the forum? I have a bunch of 39-47 truck parts that I'm going to sort through and might offer some of them for free. I'd rather see them go to someone in need of them rather than having them trashed after my demise. I don't want to pay for ads to give them away. Any advice?

Thanks for replying! Mine does not have the a disc you are referring to. My truck runs well as is with the shorter intake manifold, but I need to pull the exhaust manifold to replace a stripped stud. As long as I'll have it off I was contemplating using the NOS taller intake if it were the correct one for my truck or gave better performance. I'm thinking my 1939 Plymouth PT81 1/2 ton pickup originally would likely had the shorter manifold, but don't know how to verify? It has a 201 cu. in. engine. From past experiences, I've learned that sometimes leaving things alone if there are no problems might be a better plan?

Does anyone know what this NOS Mopar flat-head six manifold application might be? I've been cleaning out my garage and found this in my collection of stuff, but can't remember where I got it. It definitely will fit the 23" block I have in my truck, but the center section where the carb sits is much taller than the one currently in my 39 Plymouth PT81 pickup. It's numbered 1120002-15. In the 36-40 Dodge truck parts manual the image looks like the taller one should be on my truck (TC equivalent Dodge). Perhaps the lower profile manifold was for car applications? Any knowledge or thoughts would be appreciated.

I concur! 3:73 ratio is the way to go. The 4:10 was not great for speeds over 50 in my opinion.

Yeah! I remember installing the inner seals on mine. I believe the inner seal could be installed backwards if not paying attention to the lip design which could make it leak. Also, I too have seen axles with grooves worn in so deep that even a new seal won't keep the oil back. Been too long for me to remember for sure on mine, but if the axle is grooved, you might be able to reposition the inner seal a tad to a good surface on the shaft. It is possible to overfill a differential which could cause problems. The oil level should be just below the threaded drain plug hole.

Not sure if the ones I have are Mopar or aftermarket, but they screw right in to the underside of the windshield defroster vents in my dash on the 39. I'm relatively certain it should be the same for all cabs up to 47?

Likely not worth much. ? I have a complete one in perfect condition that I know will fit 39-47 Dodge and Plymouth pickups which I've been trying to sell. Can't even give it away. I suspect the one I have will fit other car and truck applications as well? They are robust rear ends, but with tapered axles and rarity of good drums along with no emergency brake provisions not very popular. If you find someone that really needed one for a restoration you might have a chance at getting a few bucks?

Sure! I plumbed between vacuum port on intake and where the downdraft tube used to be. That was fairly easy using available parts. Pretty sure Vintage Power Wagons sell them? I got mine off a 60s vintage 230 engine. Bolted right on. I purchased an oil fill tube with 1/4 npt fitting from VPW. Making the connection for filtered air from the oil fill tube to the the carburetor was more of a challenge. I machined an adapter out of brass and bent up some steel tubing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/235223352508

I agree with Los_Control. It's why I have a stock differential and housing along with brakes and drums sitting under a shelf in my garage. This original housing with a 3.90 ratio low mileage differential had the ball & trunion u-joints. I installed a Jeep Cherokee posi-traction rear end in my truck. Very happy with it. Easier to service and get parts, better ratio choices. 3:73 being the best in my opinion, and emergency brake that works much better. That said, for those that are not experienced in such transplant endeavors or not having access to fabrication equipment would be frustrating and if having a pro do it, cost prohibitive. I spent many hours doing this conversion. Cut off spring perches, weld new perches at correct angle, fabricate custom bracketry for parking brake cables. Custom length brake cables. Custom drive shaft. Just pointing out that some often touted easy projects can be a can of worms especially if not accustomed to doing such things. Anyhow, the original differential I have would be a bolt in for any 39-47 Mopar unmodified 1/2 ton trucks. Not sure about 48 up? I know the Yoke could be changed for later model u-joints, but not sure the housing and perches would be correct? Perhaps someone here knows? I'm hoping to see this original rear put to good use again. If you (jdrader2) were close I'd give it to you if it fit. Until I find a good home for it, I won't scrap it.

Anyone know if the 39-47 truck rears (differential and housings) were the same used in the 48 and up trucks? Or are they different? I have a complete (39-47) rear with brakes and drums in perfect condition. Hoping to see it go to a worthy project.

Jim, Any flat-head 6 engine from late 30s up to 1960s with 23 inch blocks will go in if you have the original type bell housing. Likely be smart to try to get an engine from a 39-47 era truck or car because there are some differences in the later engines that might cause some install aggravation. I doubt the trans out of a P8 would be compatible? Should be others on here who would know. The original gear box in my 39 was not synchronized (which I still have in my attic) I adapted a Borg Warner T5 five speed. I'm not certain, but perhaps the later trucks by 47 were synchronized? If that's the case, and you need one, try to get a synchronized box. Much easier to drive.

I retrofitted a PCV system from a NOS 1960s 230 cubic inch military engine. The first photo shows how it came from the factory. AC CV-698C was the valve used. The valve has 1/4" NPT male and female on opposite ends. Plumbing from where my downdraft tube was using the same fitting in your photo to the intake was a fairly easy job, but I had to fabricate an adapter for the clean air intake and bend up a tube. I Purchased an oil fill tube with threaded boss from Vintage Power Wagons. I think I have an extra one if anybody wants it? The project was a little challenging, but has worked perfectly. No more stinking oil fumes and less oil seepage around seals. I believe the oil stays cleaner as well? To do something like this you'll need access to a tube bender and a flaring tool and some fittings. There may be an easier way to connect to your air cleaner, but I couldn't figure a way I liked, so being a machinist, I made the adapter from a piece of heavy-wall brass tube.

Yeah, I'm running BF Goodrich LT 215/85 R16 Commercial front tires which can be inflated to 80psi. I run 60psi in them which it steers remarkably easier than with the light duty tires which I used to have with 35psi. I do feel the potholes a bit more. I think it was a good tradeoff on my 39. Steers much easier.

I'm guessing to adjust caster on our straight axle trucks is to use wedged shims between the leaf springs and the axle? My 39 does not have any such wedges. Did most of our era trucks use wedges for caster or were they manufactured well enough to not need them? I remember having a professional alignment done by a good shop in my area back in the early 80s. They had to bend the axle a bit to achieve proper camber. No easy task for a shade-tree mechanic! Perhaps they could adjust the caster by bending as well? I think they did it using hydraulic equipment? Not sure if they had to heat them? Seems to me heat would be a bad thing for metallurgy?

I'm wondering if electrical connections on our vehicles were soldered originally? Seems to me on my original harness they were not? Like Sniper, I soldered all mine and then shrink tubed. It was a bit tricky not to have the solder wick up the wire, which might make it rigid and more susceptible to breaking from vibration? Any thoughts on this? Oh yeah! Be careful to not use any acid flux. Ask me how I know. Lols! As always, "the devil is in the details"

Quality looking repair on that frame! It's not often to see someone going back to original after those kinds of hacker modifications. Too bad you're not close. I have a perfect complete rear end 3.9 ratio that I'll give to you or anyone that would actually use it. I won't ship it however. Too much hassle. I'm curious how the truck steered with that rack and pinion in there?