PT81PlymouthPickup

No jewel, but it has the bulb which works. lights up when I pull headlights on and brighter when I engage high beams. Is that how yours works? I can only tell it's working by removing the socket and holding it to a ground. Obviously I have the wrong combination of switch to knob. The switch's stem is hollow to allow light to pass. I really don't know what switch or knob was in there originally? The harness I purchased for the 1939 had the socket for the bulb. I don't care about the high beam indicator. I'm more concerned with protecting the wiring. The old switch that I found yesterday looks identical to a switch listed on eBay for a 1940 Mopar truck. NORS made by Cole Hersee? https://www.ebay.com/itm/144202974371?hash=item21932ac4a3:g:09YAAOSw7JVhQmIR Not sure if they were quality? I haven't been able to find a Mopar part number for 1940 Dodge or Plymouth pickups.

Thank you Wraith! Yes, I have an original switch installed. I did not remember there were fused light switches a for our era (39-47) trucks. That would solve my concerns without splicing into the harness, which I really don't want to do. I just went through a box of old electrical stuff I had saved. To my surprise found a switch like you described. Probably one I picked from scrap yard? Looks like it will work with little effort. Not sure what to do with the extra wire for the light in my switch? Do you think 42 was the first year to use the fused switch? I had a good laugh when I examined the old fused switch. Someone had replaced the fuse with a piece of steel brake line. Lols! Any idea of what amp fuse was used? Might you or anybody reading this have a part number for the switch with fuse? Or know where I might purchase an NOS one? Sorry for all the questions. After examining more closely I discovered I forgot that I had already installed an inline fuse for the heater. A fused switch will solve the light circuit and adding a fuse for the horn is simple enough.

When I wired my truck many years ago, I didn't know what I was doing (still don't!) but I struggled through it the best I could prior any internet help. Anyhow, everything worked fine. I installed an original style harness from Harnesses Unlimited. A couple years after that, I installed a heater, signal lights, radio, and converted to 12v system including a circa 1970 Mopar alternator. I was able to get everything to work well and still does. Lately however, I've been worried about the lack of fuses in several circuits. When I made the upgrades, I did cobble together a fuse block to protect signal lights, brake lights, and radio. The rest of the system (headlights, heater, horn, charging system) is unprotected. Looking at some diagrams I had used for the charging system, they don't show any fuse? I'm guessing the fusible links used during that era protected it? There is a 30 amp fuse on the back of the amp gauge? I'm considering adding some inline fuses, but not sure where to place them or if it's worth the effort? Anybody dealt with this and how did you do it?

Thanks! Very helpful! I wish they listed the shaft applications referenced by distributor numbers. The distributor listed in the 47 Autolite service catalog for the 1939 PT81 is IGS4103A-1 The one in my truck is IGS4103A without the dash-1? I think there might have been some discrepancies with the model year applications?

Anyone know how to verify Auto-Lite part numbers? I purchased a distributor shaft that someone wrote on box with a marker #661711 which according the 1936-40 Dodge Trucks master parts catalog should be the correct one for my 1939 Plymouth pickup which is essentially the same as the 1939 Dodge TC. Anyhow, when I got my IGS-4103A distributor apart, this shaft was not the correct one. Using online a 1947 Auto-Lite Service Parts Catalog, I was able to locate a IGS-2025 RF shaft with governor which worked perfectly. The oem box marked from the manufacturer as IGS 1025RB which I believe is the correct number for this distributor shaft without governor. Anyone know have access to, or know where to find the application for this shaft? It's perfect brand new condition. I'm hoping I might identify it, so I can pass it on to someone who might need it.

How's about a cat for the garage?

The Scarebird kit I bought a couple years ago called for 1983-92 Chevy S-10 4WD Calipers and 1993-96 Ford Probe rotors. There was plenty of clearance with my 16" rims. I would guess that 15" rims would also fit? I wondered why the change to Lincoln MK VII rotors and Chev Celebrity calipers? I sent an email Mark at Scarebird to ask why the change and if the mounting brackets are the same as mine? I did not get a response. Anyone know?

Here's a shot of what it looks like

Ed, I'm curious what the rectangular opening is for? My 39 1/2 ton cab does not have that.

Sweet! Nice solution. Must of been a little tricky figuring out getting those standoffs in just the right positions before welding? Do the oem hubcaps fit well and go on and off easily? I'd like to do the same on my 39 Plymouth's rear rims which I had custom width wheels made by the Wheelsmith. I'm now running a smoothie cap which looks OK, but would be better if I could use my oem Plymouth hubcaps.

I have spoken to a few vintage vehicle owners over the years that do not have any oil filtration on their engines and claim it not necessary? I know one fella that has over 150k on a ford flathead 8 without any issue. He does change the oil religiously. Seems like some filtration would be better than none? On the other hand, it would certainly be simpler having less connections to leak and not having to deal with messy filter changes?

Have you tried Vintage Power Wagons? www.vintagepowerwagons.com

Yeah! we'll probably be driving right through those lights anyhow because we can't see anymore no matter what windshield we have. And, probably with the signal light going as well, due to hearing loss. ? Lols! Ain't getting old great! I'm heading to the hospital next week for fistula surgery. I'll probably have to add some padding to my seat? ?

My seat is original height to the 1939 which I believe is the same as your 41. I'm 6'-1" and I don't find it bothersome, but there is some visibility blockage when your close to a traffic light. Does your seat appear to be over padded?

Well, Attempting to have "saved a few bucks" when working on vintage vehicles never seems to work out for me. ? Almost every time I take the cheaper way, it costs me more in the long haul. Lols! Anyhow, that Cable Connector Bracket looks like it should work well.

I used a bracket which (if my memory serves me correctly) came off the Jeep I got the differential out of. I believe it was an 87 Comanche. I used an old piece of steel square tube to set it off from the frame and made a spreader bar from a piece of cr steel bar stock. It did require having custom length cables made and fabricating a couple other brackets to support the cables from bouncing around. Not rocket science, but I do remember struggling a bit with this project to get it work out correctly. Works Great! I can lock up the rears with that long lever.

Fabricated a bracket to my BW T5.

Yep! Vacuum advance.

I'm guessing so does altitude? Or is that attitude? I'd get pretty hot if my cooling system overheats or freezes up. Lols!

What does "All about the LAT" mean?

I believe the only advantage of pressurized systems was to further raise the boiling point of the coolant. A 50/50 ethylene glycol / water mix would boil around 227 degrees at atmospheric pressure. The same 50/50 mix would not boil until 252 degrees at 10psi on the system. I agree our systems were not designed to be pressurized. I doubt it would be wise to try that? A 20 degree thermostat increase is still amply below the below the boiling point. I do agree running our old engines at slightly higher operating temperature is likely to be better at keeping the engine cleaner, especially if a pcv system has been added. Less likely to build up moisture in the crankcase. Another thing my dad used to remind me, was to never go over the 50/50 mix. UN-reduced ethylene glycol can pass through gaskets due to it's lubricity and cause leaks.

This thermostat stuff gets kinda confusing for what seems like should be a simple thing! Lols! I'm getting a headache! Anyhow, I remember some of the old cars that came to my dad's repair shop in the winter having radiators blocked with cardboard and such. Not so sophisticated as your dad's setup. I also remember my dad telling me that wasn't a good practice, because people would forget to take it out. Then on a warmer day could be overheating. I recently took my 39 truck on a couple hour cruise. The indicated engine temp was right at 160. The morning temp. was in the high 30s. It wasn't "toasty" at all in the cab. Geez! Maybe it's my blood circulation that's the issue? Lols! Anyhow, my thinking is; it might take a bit longer to open, but after that happens the stat should regulate the temp to it's rating. Seems logical what you are saying about extremely cold days. There also seems to be a few guys on here that believe running our engines a bit warmer is better for longevity?

Yeah! I think that's what I'll do. I'm hoping it doesn't require any adaptation? Not that I'm against adapting a modern stat, but if I can find one that fits the housing properly, I'd rather go that route. I was hoping someone else here installed the VPW part #CC1407937 with success?

After reading a bunch (and getting more confused), I"m considering replacing my 160 stat with a 180 degree thinking it is likely better for my engine and might give me a little more warmth from the heater? "Vintage Power Wagons" sell an NOS Mopar 180 degree stat that looks like the original type. VPW part #CC1407937 for $20. There's a note on the bottom of the page stating that in some cases a 1/32 hole should be drilled in the top plunger to allow some circulation before the stat opens and to vent air better? Anyone have any experience with this? Seems like a good deal if it fits properly?

I'm curious about your calipers. Might just be my memory fading, but yours look different from the ones I installed last year on my 1939 pickup using a Scarebird kit. I used calipers for 1990 S-10 4WD having a 2.48" bore. Perhaps different manufacturer? I used AC-Delco. Would appreciate knowing what you used if they are different.