Bob Riding

You mean like this?

Actually made me LOL

I'm about to replace mine. I got them From Andy Bernbaum. Good quality.

My wife said she likes the '41...she says the '42 looks like a wide-mouth frog. She can be cruel sometimes.

After choosing these old Mopars, I realized I was choosing first year models. All classics (with a small c).

That's my problem too (hoarding) and so I've heard from others...don't throw anything "important" away because as soon as you do, you will need it! Makes for a somewhat cluttered existence if you don't have a good system for finding stuff. As for whether i will be able to use it, - if I don't or it breaks, I'll follow the owner's manual suggestion to turn on the lights of the head sign and gauges "for display purposes"

Before the shop closed, I copied the paperwork from (as far as I could tell) a similar but newer SUN machine that the owner had. I scanned the "Quick Reference " guide, "Owner's Manual" and the blank "Test Report" form that you would use to record your findings. I've attached the "Test Report " form, but the others are too large to post here. PM me and I'd be happy to email you a copy. Atlas Test Report Form

This Atlas machine, (which looks EXACTLY like a SUN machine)I'd guess is mid to late 70's vintage. There are no tubes, just solid state circuits. Someone on a HAMB thread was complaining that if those boards took a dump, they would be practically impossible to replace. Anyone know the switchover to solid state circuitry? Transistor radios have been around a long time...

I bought this from my cousin, who is closing up his shop, Ball Tire, in Fresno after 50 years. They were one of the few shops around this area that serviced new and old iron. He had to liquidate everything inside the business, as Bridgestone Company owns the building, land etc. Most all of the employees, including the Manager, found other local jobs, which is great. I ended up buying a metal workbench, some metal storage cabinets, bench grinder, tire pry tools, vintage rubbish cans, an old metal "oily rag" can and this 70's era "Atlas Motor Analyzer. I brought it home, plugged in in and everything seems to work! The four lighted windows are Amps-Dwell, RPM, Vacuum, and Volt-Ohm. There are also 8 "Cylinder Selection" buttons, 6 "Ignition Selector" settings, "Volt-Ohms Calibrate" button, and for safety, an "Engine Kill" switch. All the connections, including what looks like a timing-light gun are there. Also it has a video screen which can be used to compare cylinders. I've never used this kind of analyzer before...I have a copy of the owner's manual, so I will be able to dig into the details, but I was curious as to member's experience with these vintage machines.

I have purchased reproduction caps before (P10), and was curious as to any weight differences. The ones I got weighed almost exactly the same as my originals, and are very strong (not-flimsy). At $60-80 each, they are not cheap, but they are very nice.

Here is his email address... seaplym@hotmail.com

?

I just read about the "Plymouth 111-Inch Society" in the 2002 book: Hemming's Book of Plymouths. Never heard of it. Maybe I should join?

Yes he would. He is the Plymouth expert

Here is my "52 cap. Might also be correct for a '51.

Greg, Looks like Mopar Performance Parts, Feldpro and Victor are all options, but none list gasket thickness. I'll keep looking. Thanks!

Greg. I don't remember what the actual thickness was, but I have the measurements of the various gaskets that I researched (somewhere!) If it's not too much trouble, that would be great! Thanks Bib

Greg G: You said you were able to find a solid copper head gasket that was thinner than the standard composite ones - do you have the info on what , where to purchase?

Awesome, Thanks!!!

Anyone have the frame dimensions for a '51 or'52 Plymouth I could use to compare to the '56? None of my manuals show the dimensions. Thanks!

No need. I would've said the same. ?

I appreciate the sentiment- but it's not as solid as it looks. The rust issues are quite extensive- I plan to salvage as many parts as I can for my solid '56, including doors, trim, steering wheel, bumpers, etc. It is weird how it rusted- it sat under a tarp in the Sierras for 40 years...the whole back of the wagon is corrosion but the front is OK. the floors are gone, but the rockers are solid, including the original aluminum step plates. Once I get all I can from it, I will drag it down to Turner's Auto Wrecking where it will hopefully supply parts for others.

I've been trying to come up with a way to use the '56 277 Poly V8 that came in my parts wagon in my '52 Suburban build. I realize that a number of modifications will need to happen if I just transplant the V8 where the old flat 6 lived, such as dealing with the steering column, motor location, mounts, etc. I've looked at both chassis, and the wheel width is almost exactly the same- but the '52 has a 111" wheelbase vs. a 115" wheelbase for the '52. It seems the frame width near the front body mounts are close- within an inch or two. Anyone try this swap?

I believe that only original wheels will take the original hubcaps. I went through 14 wheels when I was doing the '40 woodie to find 4 usable ones. I would take them down to my cousin's tire shop and he would spin check them for true. Here is what my current project (15") wheels look like: