JOHN EDGE

Vintage metalworks atwater,Ohio had one of his kits i think they’re the easiest and practical

Converter box

I used a mooneyes 12 volt Tach that they made a few years back that was small and period correct looking and got a converter from a fellow on this site that allowed me to use my 6 volt positive ground system. Works great. Auto meter makes the Tach for mooneyes

How about a pair wired parallel

Think you’re doing the right thing by adding the moldings to you car. It will completely transform the look of your car. My wagon was without any exterior trim and I located all the trim that was available and it makes the wagon. Be sure to fit the trim to body contours before installing. They tend to get a little bent sometimes when removed. Take the time to polish them before install and remove any dings its not hard to polish or straighten stainless the one thing I didn’t do was drill my wagon body for molding clips. I couldn’t bring myself to drilling holes. I sheared some aluminum slats that slide inside the back side of the molding then used 3M two faced molding tape to attach them to the wagon. Just like all new cars/truck have their moldings attached. 3 years and 10000 Miles later not one loose molding even my gravel guards are taped on

I’ve got one of these units and plan on installing it on my 52 suburban everything is either new or rebuilt in the brake system with a remote fill reservoir looked at the remote vacuum brake booster but they recommend I use two boosters one front and one rear. Seemed like a lot of hardware Hoping someone out their had some experience with the E-Z power booster but I’ll update my experience with the effectiveness of this system

Anyone have experience with these vintage kits to improve and assist brake performance

Trying to find if Plymouth made different weight flywheels for 218 engines

I’m looking for the factory weight of a 218 flywheel out of a 1952 Plymouth thanks for any info

Does anyone know the weight of the factory flywheel has anyone lighten a factory wheel and how much thanks for any info or comments

The Fulton visor will work fine have mounted several Fulton visors on different makes and model vehicles there’s enough adjustments to fit most roof lines and A pillars

She’ll cruise all day at 75 and I did last years power tour 3000 Miles has factory overdrive 1800 rpms@ 70mph

Stay with the flattie and my experience is dual carbs helped the most then the head and improved compression ratio then the split exhaust manifolds. I bored my motor .040 any good machine shop can perform this task and be sure the ignition system in good shape electric fuel pump to maintain constant fuel pressure. My wagon moves down the road way better than a stock one and gets 20 mpg and tons of looks when I raise the hood

I relocated the front shocks when I changed the front coil springs and installed the dropped uprights. I thought the factory method of attaching the front shocks to the upper and lower control arms made for little or no value in controlling the stability or dampening of the front end. It’s was the least expensive improvement and in my opinion did provide better stability. I do drive my wagon at 70 plus mph and find that the steering is improved

The headlight eyebrows are covers that fit over the headlight ring they’re aftermarket easy to find

That’s an old style ford front shock mount. Many different company’s offer it speedway motors will have it

My choice for simplicity is vintage metalworks. Dave farewell. 330-322-3102 retain all the factory clutch linkage change the throw out bearing,pilot bushing and clutch disc. Small adapter to bell housing used stock rear end and made new driveshaft with spicer type u joints if you want to retain a stock appearance then locate an overdrive unit. Really makes these old vehicles into a driver with an extra gear. Call me if you want John Edge 813-245-0444

Good luck on your build and please post your progress. Think a t5 transmission upgrade is a good choice. There’s some good kits available for the swap Done a lot of upgrades to my 52 suburban

You guys must do a lot of passing and down shifting

My dual carb set up. Runs great and get decent gas mileage. Do like points and condensers

Guess I’m lucky living in Florida. Not a lot of hills but I have driven the wagon in tenn and the Carolina’s and I understand the thought process

Never understood why anyone would need to use these toggle system to operate their overdrive unit. When I first bought my wagon it’s overdrive unit was wired this way and I received a note showing this drawing of this wiring schematic and how this was the George Ashe method. Well I had many other projects to complete on my wagon but after driving and using the overdrive unit I thought this seems very redundant. At the core of this operation is a governor that act as a ground for the relay when you reach operation speed 35/40 mph. Once grounded the relay allows current to apply the solenoid and once you momentarily release throttle pressure you have engagement of the overdrive unit. Unless you have the manual cable in the block position. Works every time. No toggle switches or redundant wiring. I never got the need for the extra hardware. All I do is tip my toe above 35 and I’ve got overdrive. Would love for someone to explain the need for the toggle system