Worden18

Thanks Merle. I did see that the manual calls for a Stromberg. I'll see how it runs when it's all back together.

Feb 10: I have some more questions fellas. I finished rebuilding the carb (Carter B&B) and noticed there is no choke arm linkage. Well, I have another carb exactly the same as the one I rebuilt, and it too is missing that linkage. Turns out, there is no place on the throttle linkage for this arm to connect to anyway. Finally dug out my manual (I forgot to take it to work with me where I had rebuilt the carb) and it states that the linkage is not used, which makes sense because there is no place for it to connect to on the throttle linkage. My question is: with a manual choke setup like I have, what is the purpose of that top piece of linkage (where the spring is connected in picture number two) that the arm would normally connect to? As you can see in the pictures, someone had connected some springs, which I don't believe is the right thing to do and certainly was not helping the throttle linkage at all. So when I put the carburetor back on, should I just hook up the manual choke and the throttle linkage and it should work correctly? I looked at the one on my Meadowbrook and that is a different style of ball and ball which includes that choke linkage arm, so that didn't help me at all.

It should polish up nice. It was painted a long time ago. Original color was dark blue.

My 1948 B-1-D

I don't know about the Gyromatic, but the 3 speed in my Meadowbrook works fantastic. The engine is tuned correctly, so if I come to a stop without pushing in the clutch, the engine will idle down to around 450 rpms. It really freaks people out the first time they ride with me.

Yes! Curved top floats...7/32. Thanks ?

Feb. 7: Fellas I need some help. I'm putting the carburetor back together and I do not have the gauge they call for to adjust the float. I've never even used a gauge like that before, I have always seen measurements for the float drop, and used a scale to get it right. Does anyone know off the top of their head what the measurement should be? It says in the instructions to hold the tab against the back of the needle and then measure with the 5/64 tabs on the float guage. Somebody enlighten me please. Right now that measurement seems to be about 7/32 in

-Rubber strap: battery tie down - home window latch: glove box lock -bubble gum: radiator repair (external) -duct tape: hole in floor - plywood: replacement for broken rear window -vice grips: window crank I've seen all these and probably more I can't think of at the moment. ?

Jan 31: At the market to pick up a few groceries on the way home. Still - 20F degrees Fahrenheit at noon.

Jan 31: -33F This morning. Not with the wind chill, but straight -33F. ? No block heater, no battery blanket. I did not bring the coil wire into the house or anything. My garage is not insulated. Full choke, 3 pumps. The Meadowbrook started up on the second crank of the engine if you can believe that! I would never believe it myself if it hadn't happened to me this morning. This is as cold as I've ever seen it here in Southeastern Minnesota. The heater worked great, and I had ZERO problems to work and back. A number of my co-workers had many problems with their vehicles, including one whose brand new Chevy traverse would not start this morning. So much for modern technology. Everybody should own an old Dodge! ? The car ran about 160 degrees at 55 miles an hour. At idle it would warm up to 180° which is what my thermostat is. I truly put that Evan's waterless coolant to the test, and it did not disappoint. At least I knew the block wouldn't crack because there's no water in it.  Pic: under the I-90 bridge on the way home.

Jan 31: At the market to pick up a few groceries. Still - 20 degrees Fahrenheit at noon.

Jan 31: -33F This morning. Not with the wind chill, but straight -33F. ? No block heater, no battery blanket. I did not bring the coil wire into the house or anything. My garage is not insulated. Full choke, 3 pumps. The Meadowbrook started up on the second crank of the engine if you can believe that! I would never believe it myself if it hadn't happened to me this morning. This is as cold as I've ever seen it here in Southeastern Minnesota. The heater worked great, and I had ZERO problems to work and back. A number of my co-workers had many problems with their vehicles, including one whose brand new Chevy traverse would not start this morning. So much for modern technology. Everybody should own an old Dodge! ? The car ran about 160 degrees at 55 miles an hour. At idle it would warm up to 180° which is what my thermostat is. I truly put that Evan's waterless coolant to the test, and it did not disappoint. At least I knew the block wouldn't crack because there's no water in it. Pic: under the I-90 bridge on the way home.

Mostly the roads are clear. I have a longer snow covered driveway than what you see here by my garage and there's other areas that are fully snow-covered, and the car did just fine on those areas. But I have driven it on the snow and ice before and it has done better than any rear-wheel-drive I had ever owned before, and I have owned a lot of cars in my life. Like more than 50 of them, most being rear wheel drive. The fluid drive really helps to keep it from slipping.

Jan 30: I did today. -17F. It started and ran great. Heater worked great too.

New gasket, snug lid down gently, try again. And yes, check the bolt gasket as well. If this doesn't work then you can try some of the other things the guys mentioned. If the bolt is bottoming out before the lid is tight, you can always zip part of it off with a cut off wheel. Worst case scenario I guess.

Jan 30: Back in the garage after my drive to town and back. EcoDiesel: plugged in Meadowbrook: not plugged in ? My best guess at the temperature gauge: 160 degrees at 50 miles an hour. When I came to a stop or at idle, back up to 180 degrees. No cardboard in front of the radiator.

January 30: -17F; 1:30pm. Was having some minor problems with my EcoDiesel in this cold (-28F this morning), although I made it to work and back. So I decided to see how the Meadowbrook would do. I had not started the car for 10 days. I did not expect the battery to be able to turn the engine over fast enough to start it, but it did! After about 15 total seconds of cranking (in 3 separate spurts), she fired right up. I let it warm up and then turned the heater on. Then I drove into town to top off the gas tank and put a bottle of Heet in. ZERO PROBLEMS. If it starts tomorrow morning I will be taking it to work. It's going to be minus 33 degrees Fahrenheit. So much for modern technology. I trust that old flat head more than anything else I have. Nuff said. Pic: warming up in the driveway.

Jan. 29: Had to move the 48 from one building to another about 1/2 a mile away. The guy who hauled it is going to rent the building the truck was in. Luckily for me my friend owns many buildings and we just moved it to another spot. It is now sharing a space with a 2008 Corvette, a 1975 Monte Carlo with 4500 original miles, and a mid 70s Ford pickup, all owned by my friend. The right rear brake locked up on the 48, which made it more difficult to unload, and it didn't help that it was 10 below zero. -27F tonight is what they're predicting. ?

Dang that looks fun! That'll be me this summer. ?

Radar, I wish you were my next door neighbor. I have zero talent! Your thread is amazing.

Very cool project Greg. I'm keeping an eye on this one!

I know I posted this on the forums somewhere previously, but here it is again. I painted this on canvas in 2017. My B-1-D is looking quite cold and a bit lonely sitting there in that shed. At the time I painted this I knew that someday I'd own a Pilot House truck. ? When I painted this my thoughts were the truck is fully tuned and ready to go, and the owner (me) is in the shed making sure the tire chains are secure before firing it up. ? Hope you guys like it!

I believe so, yes

Jan. 25: Well fellas, I'm still working on the carb. I'm not particularly fast at anything, and I like to take my time on things. I have started reassembly though. ? I did remove the retaining clip and check ball from under the accel pump. I used one of my dental pick tools. But I needed a magnet to remove the check ball because it was so dirty under there that it would not pop out on its own. Thanks for that advice guys. Picture number 2: flattening things out on the surface plate at work. That's the way to get it flat!

You could also put down a piece of non-skid to step on; but then of course the look is non original. Just a thought.