JPP
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Posts
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Everything posted by JPP
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It is your duty to buy it. This is a gift from the gods.
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1939 Dodge Flathead Six - oil in the coolant problem
JPP replied to JD&COKE's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
JD&COKE, I am sure you'll get lots of ideas but seems like could be a block crack. The oil runs 40psi and the water coolant is low pressure,so the driving force is from the oil to the water. A test would be to pressurize the water side at high pressure and see if you get water in your oil. This will confirm that you have a crack somewhere. Just my 2 cents. -
Tim, for those of us who can’t attend, and have a ‘50 so ‘51 clusters do us no good, but love the videos and pictures that come from the bbq, I think $25. Would be a great contribution from those of us too busy or not brave enough to make the drive. Will Paypal work??
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Thanks. Will do.
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Talked with Andy B and bought left and right spring shackles for rear of front springs. So they arrived unlabeled. Which goes where right hand thread on right side and left on left side, like lug nuts? Oh I have 1950 B2B 1/2 ton. Thanks
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So my B2B is a all year round driver. Have tough time on traction with ice and snow. Do you guys add weight? How much? Thanks.
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I replaced my tie rod ends yesterday and the tie rod had a small bend 10' from the ends on both sides, it looked intentional. I think the tie rod should be straight so as to allow for alignment when on the truck, lossen the clamp bolts and rotate shaft in or out depending on alignment. Is this true?
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Hey Merle, I was wondering if back in the day the tie rod end ball joints were the same dimension as the drag link ball joints? Could one buy tie rod end fittings from AutoZone and fit the ball joint to the old drag link? I find it har to believe they would have engineered a new part. What napa wants fro the drag link, I might as well buy another truck.....
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The drag link is a one piece unit. The ends are not replaceable like on the tie rods.
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I have recently got my truck going and so have had the pleasure of filling up at the gas station. I have noticed that when I open the cap, a vacuum is released, is this normal, or should I vent the cap? Thanks
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I had a similar issue, and as you did chased everything, fuel pump, vacuum, carb, plugs, plug wires and while this never improved anything it was worth getting everything right. So what I did was chase the electrical aspects. Look at your voltage getting to points, should be 6.4 volts for 6V system. Turned out I had a loose ignition wire under dash. No more hesitation. Good luck.
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I have bought after market gauges and they use the same line as my standard gauge, I swap them for calibration purposes. Never seemed so difficult to match.
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Andy Bernbaum is where I got mine. http://m.oldmoparts.com/.
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I got lap belts from Napa. Driver and passenger side.
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I have a battery reading 6.32 volts. I have "00" battery cables going to starter. I have 6.32 volts reading at starter stud post. When I push starter button, I get no or little rotation of the starter, worked fine up till today. The starter appears original. What is the minimum voltage required to turn starter? Push the truck, drop clutch starts and runs fine. Checked my battery ground, no problem, again "00" cable to frame. Thanks for any and all responses. Best
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Don’t remember this being a big problem but I would get that starter out of the way first then the rest will seem simple.
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Ok great thanks, probably easier as tranny is four bolts, and the U joint. Correct?
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52 Work Truck, not sure what you mean, I plan to swap top plate and forks as a unit. Does this not just swap? I can't imagine they made 2 different transmissions, the print is identical with exception of top plate and linkage, is drawing wrong?
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Hi All, I currently have a B2B with a three speed on the floor and am looking to swap a column shifter out of a '51 B3B. Any watch outs looks straight forward. I plan to remove the top plate from the B2B with the forks and simply place it in the B3B. I then will do the same with the column shifter top plate then work out all the linkage, am I missing something? By the looks of the pictures I have seen , I can keep my floor ebrake in place as the column top plate have mount positions for floor lever. Thanks in advancefor your support.
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Yes Home Depot closet liner. Need to drill out for window and door crank, cause material too thick. Use lacquer finish so touch ups are fast.
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JJ, I have a B2B with three speed on the floor looking for three speed on the column. I am open to swap or purchase. Thanks
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Take the filter out during this stage, makes life easier. the oil resevoir will fill faster and things will stabilize, once your ready for the road install filter element into housing because at that point you will know all things are working.
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Kevin, Is your system completely bleed of air between gauge and engine? As oil is uncompressible while air gives differnt reading. I ran the truck with a valve at the gauge interface and simple held it well above the engine and bleed it while the engin idled. my truck has 100 psi compression and 40 psi at idle. I also noticed that if my oil level was low, you would see low reading at idle. Just my thoughts.
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Not to spitball further, but while your in the JB Weld Aisle, pick up a fire extingisher, when the oil hits the hot engine, flames can appear. Just want to identify all risks.
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It is too thin to weld but you can tin it and then sand it smooth, look like new and no leaks. Search web for tinning metal. Good luck.
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I got mine figured out had to get good ground and reverse gauge wires. All working splendidly.
