minicooper

The pipe thread tape nor the locktite worked - looking at pulling the head. 47 Dodge, how did you get the threads clean enough to get solder?

Interesting idea, I may try this if the lock-tite or thread tape don't work. I had actually thought about crimping the threads with channel-locks before reaching out to this forum for advice.

Interesting idea, but it would be awfully hard to make future adjustments.

Yeah, I referred to the split part as "fingers".

I have an exhaust valve noisy tappet that loosens after adjusting and driving for a couple miles. It is loose enough that I can turn the adjuster screw with my fingers - it loosens up to around .024. It seems that to fix I need to pull the valve and spread the fingers, or replace the self-locking adjuster screw (if I can find one). I read a thread where using a wicking thread locker, like Locktite 290, will hold. Anyone had luck with using thread locker on these adjuster screws? This is a 4 year old complete rebuild. -Roland 1952 B3C 218

Wow, I've read many posts about your "Phoenix Rising" but didn't know it happened because oily rags!

You ever do something so stupid that you have to confess? I had not cranked the B3C in about 6 weeks so I thought I would start it last night in the barn and let it idle. Since its been sitting in the high humidity of a late Georgia summer, the clutch was stuck engaged, unbeknownst to me. Well you wouldn't think it would start and take off in reverse (it should have lurched and stalled), but it did, and my pressure washer happened to be behind it. The pressure washer was flattened and lodged under the truck where it crushed the new fuel tank I installed this summer and tore the short rubber fuel line between tank and fuel pump. I pulled the truck forward after a few pumps of the clutch to dislodge the pressure washer and ran to get a pan to collect the gasoline then quickly gorilla taped the fuel line. On the bright side - only about 1/2 a gallon of fuel leaked out and the tank wasn't pierced, although it is pretty mangled, and Gorilla tape is awesome. And I already know how to install a fuel tank. ? -Humbled

Thanks! They are Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT215/85R16. I swapped out the stock 15” wheels for 16’s.

No parades this year but I did drive through our little town yesterday. Snapped this pic back at the barn. I always put up this very faded Old Glory on the 4th. Apologies for the horse’s butt in the background.

Just wondering here if there are disc brake conversion kits for the 1 tons or at least dual reservoir master cylinders? Peace of mind to have the stopping power of disc brakes and the safety of dual master cylinder. That’s one beautiful truck you have. -roland

Thanks for the reply. After I replace the rear end (I hope to finally accomplish that this month, as I have an 8 1/4 3.73 on hand), I plan on driving it a lot more.

I was going to go for a drive this morning, but when I cranked the B3C up, I noticed ticking - tick, tick, tick. This 218 was rebuilt 3 years ago but has only been running since last August and has maybe 500 miles on it. I drove it yesterday and it ran quiet and steady. Oil pressure is steady at 40, temperature 180, once it warmed up. Is this something that is normal with these flatheads, or should I worry since it came on all of the sudden? -roland 61557417891__DDD90D53-921D-4F25-A919-A823834F151D.MOV

Wow, an amazing build you've got going! Super envious of your shop! If you're looking for a rattle can product, I've been using Rustoleum Rust Reformer for a few years and have been happy with it.

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Are you are seeing the dust in the air where you are in Georgia Plymouthy? The dust from the Sahara is so thick here today in west Ga that it looks like fog. I still run the oil bath cleaner in the B3 - rinsed the element with kerosene this morning and changed the oil in it. It was gritty.