Vin's 49 Plymouth

I just got through with this on my P15C, you can see it in my profile albums. I did some searching for a year here in Washington, and not many shops would do it. When I did find someone it was over 15K, even if I did the body work and primer. They don't trust your work, so they don't take any off the price. I finally went to Macco and got their best at 6K not including the 1K I spent on a gallon of my custom color. It was a horrible paint job, but it was painted. The bad part is that they used black base coat instead of white for my yellow. (changed the color)It made it a shade darker. Not many runs, but there is some filler sag and the jams are not cut and buffed. So I will take it back after I get it drivable this spring.

I have looked into this for my 49 15C. They are not available. They would have to be custom made. I've seen them for other models, but they will not fit a P15 sedan.

Nick, I'm doing my wiring now. I recommend starting with the back of the car, by feeding the wires up through the drivers pillar. Then with the dash, route the wires through the firewall and put the instrument cluster in the dash, sit in the front seat with the dash in your lap, then run the wire and gauge tubing, then install the dash. My opinion only... You have done very well. At your age I restored a 67 dodge charger, it was a lot easier than these cars.

Don't paint it. The paint comes off later. Same with the X in the welt, it might push out over time. I learned from grandpa to put a V cut and bend as you tighten the bolts. Of course just my thoughts.?

Bob's auto glass in Oregon.

The body work will take more than a month. They don't call it work for nothing. Mine took 6 months just work on the weekends. I learned to only trust my sense of touch, not my eyes for a smooth surface. I also learned to use a high build primer, not a epoxy sealer.

Your right, Mark's videos are a great help! He has a new one of the 41 cruising to music.

Don't forget the anti-stick snow spray. Don't want snow sticking all winter.

Thanks Greg and Eneto, I'm visiting the president of the Walter P Chrysler club (for the northwest region) next door in Woodinville today, so I will get some info from him as well. I got a lot of great information from all of you. Thanks so much. I will tag this one solved.

Thank you all for your help. Every one of your posts have helped. Being able to only work on the car once a week is tough. I am very anxious to get wires through so I can start the engine. I've never heard it run. With the full race cam and all the other things I did, it should sound really good.

Eneto, Thank you for the response. When I stripped the car there was one or two wires through the oval on the centerline. They were not terminated. There are two other round holes? I think one is the hood release, which was not connected. Thanks.

I'm at the point in my restoration of my P15C to install a new wire harness. The car had the front end torn apart (including most of the wires) when I bought it. I need to know the original routing of the wires and cables through the fire wall. Diagrams don't tell which port they go through. Can you kind folks help a lad with this? I've got new paint and new rubber on the firewall, so it's time. Thank you. Vince Here is a photo of the harness after I sorted the circuits out.

Welcome Paul, I work at Renton Technical College near your house, I'm the aerospace instructor there. My Plymouth is in Spanaway, I drive 70 miles each way on the weekends to work on it. That's the cost of owning a condo. Vince

Fatman drop spindles come with a shock relocation bracket and drop it two inches. I went wild and cut 3 coils and did the drop spindles. Check out my profile, there is a few photos in the top album. There is also a company that makes rear posies for the leaf springs to drop them with the shackles. I had mine re-arched.

Great looking paint. I know the feeling, I just got mine back a couple weeks ago.

Wizard, With rust inhibitor you need to prime or paint over it fast within a day or so. If you live in a humid area it will draw moisture out of the air onto the affected area. I left mine too long and it took me months to cut out and tack in repairs. Look at my albums in my profile, there are a few before and after photos of my rust and repairs. Vince

Nick, We are requesting an update. Over.