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Ebay seller lists the starter as a Prestolite for 50-56 Plymouth Edit: My parts book shows 1473558: P22,P23 after engine # 643614 D41, D42 after engine # 335935 P25 up to engine # 321816 D51, D52 up to engine # 27852 Shows that part # 1383847 was superceded by 1473558

refer to post 2. Count the attaching points. Confirm that you have found all 13 before getting a big hammer.

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If it is like my 48 Dodge, the odometer is mechanically driven. The speedo needle moves by induction. Spinning magnet located behind the needle.

Refreshing to see a positive helpful answer posted rather than asking what the manual says, or asking if they have done a search.

1/4-20 x 3/4" with a star lock washer in my block. just pulled it and checked

As already suggested, bypass the solenoid with a heavy jumper wire to eliminate it as a source of the problem. EDIT: and if you have a long enough jumper you can bypass your battery cables as well by connecting at the battery first, and then touching the other end directly to the starter. There will be a spark, so you want that at the starter end rather than near the battery.

In addition to other possible problems, the leather is very likely dried on the accelerator pump. Even if you get fuel into the float bowl you will probably not get any to squirt out when you work the linkage. Remove. Soak in oil for a few hours. work the leather out for a snug fit in the bore.

#'s deleted EDIT: #'s i posted were not replacement #

Was taking his own route to the parking area rather than following the arrow.

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One thing you can to aid in the removal and installation is to use 2-3-4 temporary studs to help guide the transmission out, and back in. I used 3. Access to the upper left was difficult for some reason that I no longer remember. Threaded rod, or long bolts with the heads cut off work well. You can slot the ends for easy turning, or temp double nut them to do same. I made my own cradle to strap to my floor jack as I have no nearby friends to assist in balancing a transmission.

This will be my last post on this subject. I am apparently hard headed, or the diagram in my shop manual is generic, and is not correct for a Dodge 230 6 cyl engine. If the cover is removed from the the canister, I would like someone to explain to me what would stop oil from flowing to the canister.

Diagram of oil flow with engine running. Oil pressure pushing(unseating) the plunger uncovering the return path as explained in the diagram shown in post # 3.

The oil does not drain back into the pan with the engine off. The spring keeps the plunger pushed toward the engine blocking the return.

And due to how old it probably is, there is a good chance that it is no longer functional anyway.

Not offended, just wanted you to know I was not replying to, or disputing what you were saying

Yes, when installing the new cylinder also position it to the "run", or "on' position the same as you did for the one you are removing. If you do not line it up that way you can push till you are blue in the face, and it will not go in. If you want to you can carefully cut the armor off. Carefully to not damage the wire. The inside of the armor is larger than it is where it exits the end. If you are careful you can do it. Definitely a job for the work bench where you can turn to grind at it a bit at a time all the way around. If you do touch the wire a bit some shrink sleeve will cover it. Cut it 4-6" out so you get a second try if you get heavy handed. Past posted consensus seems to lean toward the fact that the armor was a theft prevention attempt. Not as easy to hot wire it. Just needed to have that 1 wire inaccessible.

MoPar. Not replying to Ford tractor posts. The oil relief valve blocks the oil return to the pan from the canister until enough oil pressure is achieved to overcome to force of the spring allowing the valve to move. It does not block oil from getting to the canister.

MoPar 6cyl Yes, no flow, but by the diagram, the bypass oil filter canister gets oil all the time. Oil drains from the filter when the oil pressure is sufficient to move the plunger. If the top is loosened on a running engine I would expect to see oil going on the ground rather quickly no matter what the pressure.

Relief valve operation. Plunger.

Long shot, ............but the spring in the oil pressure relief valve may have broken allowing the oil to flow freely back to the oil pan from the filter canister. Or the valve plunger could be stuck open allowing same. Unusual, when the stick, it is closed, and is more likely to result in high pressure readings. A quick check would be to stop the engine. Remove the top to the oil filter canister. Observe if the oil drains back into the pan, or stays in the canister. If the spring is good, I believe it should push the plunger out to where the oil can not flow rapidly back into the pan. You can also pull the square headed nut that is in the block just below the canister drain line to access the plunger, and spring to check it.

A good flush needs all 5 welch plugs on the driver's side of the engine removed to get all the crud out.

Time for a flashlight and a mirror, or flashlight and a camera.

Tim, send some bamboo to the OP. Can plant in back yard, and will soon have an anchor point to attach a cable.