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One consolation is that it gets to be with the other "classics" for its final farewell instead of sitting with the imports.

Not certain, but I think this is what you will find. Prongs around the outside of the socket. The bulb sockets just go in by lining them up, and pushing them into the holes. To remove for bulb change, grasp firmly, and tilt the socket to one side to release. I sometimes let my camera do the looking in the tight spots.

Saw this one at the u-pull. She had her hood held high waiting for a departure call. Perhaps the recycled steel will end up in a flag pole to carry Old Glory.

When I switched my D-24 over to electric this is what was taken out. The knob on top (not shown) is not critical. Most anything that fits the slot will work. The rod is not the same part # as for the P-15 but should look the same. My D-24 rod is smaller after the bend (see photo) to allow it to fit in the fork on the vacuum motor.. The spacer (part that makes up the angle of the dash) is different part # Nut is the same #. The rod 898522 is available fro AMS Oboslete (they bought Mitchell Motor Parts)

I agree with keithb here. You need to check to see that you have the "volts" where they need to be, and follow their progress through the system. Replacing parts may eventually lead to a fix, but good to just replace the ones that need replacing. Don't want to read all the way again. Did you replace the condenser? Often a common fail item. Once you find that spark the next thing may be getting it where it belongs at the right time ? I had that problem with my D24. Thought all was ready to go, but apparently when I slid the dizzy back into the engine the tang did not line up just right, and took a half turn before dropping into place. Firing when there was no compressed fuel there didn't work out well.

Saw what was labeled as a 1950 Buick at the upull this week. Had a straight 8 in it. Thought about what a beast that would be to remove. I pulled the 230 on my D24, but this would be more of a challenge.

Have read through the thread, and may have missed it, but if no one else has mentioned it, let me suggest.................. don't change the engine position while you have the distributor out. The tang on the distributor matches up with the slot in the oil pump. If the distributor was, somehow, possibly by some miracle, properly set for #1 plug spark at the 7 o'clock position, not having to reset that would be one additional obstacle that would be avoided as you continue on. 7 o'clock is not mandatory, but is preferred as a standard position.

Shouldn't the correct thermostat just sit in the hole in the head, and then be held in place by the thermostat housing when it is bolted down.

An accelerator pump was my thought before I even got that far down in your text.

Great job on getting a good puller. When I want something on eBay that is in an auction style format, my "most I am willing to pay" bid is manually placed in the last 10 seconds. Manual snipe process. Win, or lose. So be it. Reactive bidding can cause you to pay more than you want. Nibble bidding just drives the price up when 2-3 nibblers go at it. Before I retired I would sometimes use a "snipe service" if a listing was going to end when I was not available to do my own "last 10 seconds" bid. (maybe at work, maybe sleeping) One thing with a snipe service is........... you have to give them your eBay password (leastwise you did when I used one) so that they can bid for you. I suspect that they have good security measures, but I was always a bit antsy about giving them my info, so I had a different eBay buying account (you can have many) for the snipe service buys. With a snipe service you must also make a deposit to your snipe account to cover the fees charged. The charges for the service are not very much, but if I remember correctly I think the minimum deposit was $5 with the service I used. Fees were only charged for a win.

You have the same camshaft as any other engine. The 588 will work, as will any other pump listed for that size engine.

I think if I was concerned about a possible coil failure, and might be faced with going over to the auto parts store to get one to rig up I , for the money, would already have one in the travel parts box all wired up with written instructions for connecting it. Why? When the car quits because of the coil failure you are faced with getting to a parts store. Not easy with a vehicle that is not running. There has to be a auto parts store open when you need the part. Why not? Line in the sand as to how many parts you carry. If always close to home the car can be left where it quit until fixed. You walk, or take an uber home, or camp out like G.W.

Typical slotted steering wheel nut that I have measures 9.32mm thick. Slots cut down to a thickness of 4.94mm

PM sent.

Some made it out alive. One last stop at the pump before departing for the show. Good day to be a 'vert

Some vehicles are exposing their under bellies, or have rolled over, and died. Some are just trying to hide? from the crusher. Such a shame if they go that route.

Yup. Back a few years, before his passing on his 84th birthday, the owner had told me that "they were shutting him down", and things would be crushed, but that did not materialize at the time, and the last that I knew it was still operational by the son, but the access was limited. I, and other select pickers were no longer allowed the "free range" sourcing of the past. Citing insurance reasons it went to pretty much an owner pulling by request, situation. The son was not really into it the way his dad was. I believe he would have gone the "crush route", but possibly the mother had more say. I have not done any recent satellite views/street views/physical visits, but as recent as a year ago the views showed an extensive inventory still on the acreage. Some scrap piles(stack of engine blocks/differentials) were gone, but still tons, and tons of rusty steel vehicle shapes.

I can break bolts? I've had a few busted knuckles ? As long as I don't need to get the chain saw it might work out. Have not seen the truck for some time. It may be gone.

I sent you a PM.

I would not do a restoration. It would be a fix the holes. Fix the brakes. Make it go forward, and back. The patina would be the charm.

I currently have this photo on my desktop. I think I'm a car guy. I miss my D24, but I keep looking at this photo. I will hopefully convince myself that it is toooooo much work, and beyond my skills.

I gutted my oil bath air cleaner, and put in a paper filter. Never spilled any oil bath oil after that.

Thread with carb/air cleaner gasket.

That would be your horn relay. One wire to the battery for power. One wire that goes down, and then up through the steering column to provide a ground when you press the horn ring. One wire to the ignition for power. (horn only works with ignition on) One wire out to the horn. The wire position markings IGN, GND, HN, BAT will be visible on the mounting tabs with a little wire brushing. A search "horn relay" here on the site should provide lots of great reading.

Position looks good to me. Bolt holes are very close to the nut. His camera angle make it look strange. As well as the coned end mine has a flat adapter that would push flat against a washer that can be placed atop the nut, and threaded shaft.