Dave72dt

Tony also says most aftermarket cast piston are .020 shorter to the crown than stock so that would place stock at about .015 below deck so you should be able to take at least that .020 off the block and then take a good look at the head before going any further. It may have already been planed and a cleanup pass to ensure a flat head surface may be all you need on it. It will run at least as well as it did when it was new at that point. The more work you have done, the higher the bill.

Going from power assist to manual brakes is a big change and will require more force on your part to apply the brakes. Going from power disc to manual drum is an even bigger change. Yes they should lock the wheels. The shoes may require arcing to fit the drums properly for maximum contact area and a rusty surface in the drum can glaze the shoes, also inhibiting brake efficiency.

Screw extractor may work but you have to limit how far in they want to go. I used to take a lot of broken pipe fittings out of hydraulic cylinders with a screw extractor by clamping a vise grip to the extractor to limit how far in it would go. That may not work well with a plug snapped off in a recessed hole. I've had moderate success with straight fluted extractors, better with the screw type. either way, the remaining porcelain needs to come out first.

It's time to get out some tape and marking pens and paper to log wire locations as well as a test light to start determining each wire's function. Right now you have no clue if the problem is located in the rear harness portion, front harness or in the turn signal switch itself. Bulb sockets themselves can be causing your problems. I find it odd that you can turn a pigtail to get the bulb contacts to line up. A single contact bulb and single contact pigtail doesn't matter but a double contact socket usually has a locating tab so the pigtail doesn't turn. If an old single contact socket has been converted to a double contact pigtail it may be causing some issues. I would start by taking two of the three possible areas out of the equation, testing it, then splitting the other two and testing each in turn. Since so many of the wires are the same color, it's imperative to kn ow what each wire does and is labeled as such.

Check for a casting number. Often that number correlates directly to a Wagner number. Some of the box stores may have the old illustrated parts books as well a section in it that may list rebuild cups by size.

A really quick measurement of mine says about 7' x 17'. If you need more accurate measurements than that I'll have to get more appropriately dressed for the temps. Garage thermometer said 28 F but I think it's being a bit optimistic when the walk in door was open and only 8 F outside. T shirt, shorts and no shoes did not encourage me to linger.

The prep for paint can depend on how you intend to use the truck and how nice you need it to be. Do you need dents and blemishes removed or just a protective coating? How much rust needs to be replaced or just wire brushed, treated and then painted? Any loose paint or loose and flaking rust at the least needs to be addressed before paint. High end automotive paint system or as simple as Rustoleum brushed, rolled or sprayed on? The nicer it needs to look, the more prep is required.

The Car Quest store at 1127 Orange Ave. W in Tallahassee supposedly has one ( 86034 ) in stock. Your local Car Quest can probably have it shipped to them.

I would suspect the backlash variation is due to the runout variance. Roll the pinion over a half dozen times and you'll probably find the tight and loose backlash points have changed. JMO, I think it will be fine and can't see how you can make it any better with the parts you have. You might want to check the spline count on the side gears and compare to your axles.

28 degrees for a high today, got my miles in shortly after lunch, a little work in the garage tonight and it's snowing again. I've been in Georgia, Florida, South Carolina in January before and everyone knew we were tourists. Shorts and T-shirts, wading in the ocean gave it away.

The accelerator pump may be the cause of the poor acceleration and why it brings up the rpm so slowly. Vacuum advance diaphragm may be leaking or torn, again leaning the engine out, causing the misfires. Since you have one, what's the vacuum gauge reading? The point is to start testing, verify what is correct and known good instead of just throwing parts at it.

What did your expert in Des Moines say about your starter after you dropped it off?

You should be off the idle circuit at that rpm. With the engine off and air cleaner removed, you should be able to see a stream of gas shoot into the carb as you crack the throttle. That should be an immediate shot of gas, not a delayed shot. You can put a timing light on any of the plug wires and watch for a consistent flash or on the coil wire. Spray a little brake cleaner around the base of the carb to see if rpm changes, would indicate vacuum leak. Be cautious spraying around the manifold gasket. A fire extinguisher in place would be a good suggestion if you choose to do that. Your new cap will also have that little metal step on the electrodes. That's normal. You look more at the side of the electrodes. That's where the arcing from the rotor eats the electrode away and corrosion can occur.

Is the accelerator pump working? Vacuum advance?

If you haven't noticed, something else people of that age do is talk a lot about the weather. I ended up with about 9 inches, cleared the driveway for the last time about 7 p.m.

With our first substantial snowfall of the season, not having to be anywhere at any particular time or anything that absolutely has to be done, I can watch the accumulation from the warm side of the windows or go outside and push the snow around at my leisure, go to the garage and do some work on the truck, or sit in the recliner with a cup of coffee, work a crossword, surf the net, a little TV. Lots of choices available and none that need to be done right now. I did scrape about 3 " of snow off the driveway early this morning, about another inch at least has since fallen and still snowing hard, wind from the east, temp at 31F so it's not that cold. I may clear it again in a couple of hours. Once it quits and the trucks make some headway on the streets, I'll go out clear the driveway and maybe forego my daily walk.

try Los_Control for the project nick name

You'll also want to check the back side of the bearing shells. Often the shells are stamped with an undersize if the crank has been ground. You'll want to check them all because even though standard practice now is to grind all journals to the same undersize, that was not always the practice.

Very nice looking panels!

It's a softer weld than MIG which lets it be planished more easily, stretching the area to remove the shrinkage caused by welding. I don't know how much heat difference there is. I've never done TIG. It is a smaller weld and maybe a smaller heat affected zone as well which would affect shrinkage. You'll notice a very small heat affected zone on his tacks, smaller than a MIG tack and a lot of them. I think there would have been a lot more shrinkage warp with the long run of welding if it wasn't for all the tacks. JMO, I'm not a pro welder by any means.

Original would have been + ground. That may have been the only change made since you are getting a neg reading on the amp gauge. swapping the terminal wires on the amp gauge would have been one of the changes made if the swap was done correctly as well as the coil leads. If the coil wires weren't swapped, simply change the battery back to + ground. That may or may not get the fuel gauge working again. Fuel gauge problems have been somewhat troublesome and may have had nothing to do with the battery ground polarity.

The backing plates on mine were spot welded to the fender metal. On a really rusty fender those plates may not be noticed and just considered part of the rust buildup.

There needs to be a backing plate between the fender metal and the bracket the "rivets" hold on or the rivets will stress crack the fender. That's why the repaired area is larger than the bracket. It rusts around the backing plate edges.

If you're in doubt, replace it. It's a lot easier to replace it where you have tools available and it's not an emergency repair than on the road anywhere, even if it's only a block from where you live if it blows. Cleaning the area, assessment, removal or installation will all be easier with the fill tube out of the way.

Can they be ordered or are they discontinued? There are also some metal inline filters that have a threaded end and hose nipple on the other. Glass bowl units commonly came with a flat screen. Even the screens are getting harder to find stocked in stores.