Seaside Pete

Thanks for that. There are already 2 wires connected at the tank sender that go straight to the 2 wired posts on the gauge as pictured, there are no other wires going to the gauge only that suppressor as seen. As I am not going to use the radio I think I will remove the suppressor and connect the live feed as per my drawing direct from the ign switch (live after switching on) via a fuse and resistor. Any idea what size fuse? Thanks Pete

I agree with Plymouthy. I have just fitted mine. A and It clips over the bottom first and then snaps on at the top. It looks like you have new clips, if you don't mind can you tell me where you got them as I need some new ones and I have searched without success to find any. Pete

Thanks Plymouthy. What about the live feed, could I wire it as I have suggested? Plus as I can't quite see it is there a terminal under that noise suppressor where I connect the live feed? and as it is now neg earth instead of pos does it need to be wired different? Sorry for so many questions. Thanks Pete

Hi guys I am just about to fit my new tank, and my system has been changed to 12v neg earth by the previous owner, but he has removed the live feed to the fuel gauge. I know I have to fit a resistor to drop from 12v to 6v. I have shown below 2 pics of A: the back of the fuel gauge as it is at the moment and B: a wiring diagram. My questions are first there seems to be some kind of resistor fitted already but as I do not have any pictures to compare I am not sure what it is, is this the same as fitted to all P15's as original equipment or has it been added? The 2nd pic is the existing wiring (shown as the solid line) could I not feed the gauge (as per the dotted wiring) instead of going via the starter button as shown in the manual? Also is it critical what wire goes where at the sender end? Sorry about not having a perfect pic of the back of the gauge but it was a bit difficult to get the camera in position. Thanks in advance. Pete

Thanks Casper Pete

Hi Paul yes will do as your only about 18 - 20 miles away. Pete

The armrests on the front doors of my 47 are missing. Can anyone suggest where I could get some or maybe some from another vehicle that would fit. the 2 threaded holes in the door are 6-3/4" apart centre to centre (or center to center). Thanks Pete

And a few more

I had the same problem in fact even more rot. Here are some pics of before and after.

Hi In theory the 6x15 with a 5.4" backspace should be further from the outer fender lip than a 4x16 with a 3" backspace. very basically 4" - 3" = 1" protruding, 6" - 5.4" = .6" protruding I know not by much. If you are trying a 6x15 wheel complete with tire on the car and it is hitting the fender lip then maybe a narrower tire size would solve your problem. However you would need to get as close as possible to the rolling radius of the OE tire. I could go into detail how to measure and calculate different tire sizes but you most probably know this anyway. Pete

They are still available. This number on ebay 360571282675 (sorry I dont know how to attach a link) but $15.95 per bolt plus $10.95 shipping and then 20% tax on goods plus shipping when it arrives in the UK, makes them very expensive. Does not cost much more than that to have a complete set re-machined. Pete

Hi Franky Andyd is right. The threads are 1/2" UNF. I was having great difficulty purchasing LH threaded bolts, although Andy b's and others list them they were out of stock. The only ones I could find were $12.50 each Plus shipping plus tax so very expensive. However here's a trick. If you get hold of some 14m 1.5 threaded bolts which are readily available in europe as they were/are used on VW beetle/transporter, some Audi's etc. You can take them to a machine shop and get them re-threaded to 1/2" UNF, there is just enough meat on the bolts to reduce the size. The other advantage is that the OE bolts have quite short hexagons so your socket or wheel brace can slip off easy, but the later bolts have longer hex. If you look at the pics below you can see the OE bolt then the re-machined bolt and on the right is the 14m 1.5 bolt before machining. The only thing to watch out for is that you start off with cone seating type bolts (60 degree taper) and not radius type (rounded) as some OE bolts were radius. Pete

"ok here are some pics,,glad u gave this topic a bump i couldnt rememebr the title,,, as u can see in the pics, i ddint use the BOLT on hose and fitting that came wit hthe tank,,bolt on dump idea,, i cut the old fill tube off the original tank,and welded it in place, the hose they send with the tank will not fit my fil tube,,and is too fat to go between the frame and leaf springs like the original,,,and i reused the tank straps that were used on the original tank,,the straps they send are big enough for a tractor trailer,,, for some reason my usuall blue font is not working on this topic,,,hope these pics help you,," Thanks For the pics. Why did you not want to use the Bolt on fitting? Pete

Hi PA I have the original heater installed. Hi Don. Was it just a case of un bolting the OE motor and bolting that replacement motor in? Plus where can I pick one of those up please? Pete

Hi Guys My 47 was already changed to 12v neg earth when i purchased it. However some of the things were disconnected so I am now trying to get them all working, Radio, heater fan, fuel gauge etc. I know I will have to get the correct voltage drop resistors but does the wiring have to be changed at all to take care of the correct earth, in the heater fan for example? I think the Radio would be ok. Thanks in advance for any help. Pete

Hi. Sorry to BUMP this thread again but, I am just about to order my tank from tanks inc (at last) and I do need to order the correct sender unit. Could any body confirm or suggest how I find out the ohms sender I need? They are stating that Early Ford and Mopar use 73 - 10 ohms, does anybody know if this is correct? Thanks in advance. Pete

Would love to see some pics of the install of that heater if you can. Pete

I have bought quite a lot of stuff from Andy b's and have been pleased, just replaced my entire braking system Master cyl, wheel cyl's, flexi's, shoes etc all from Andy b's with no problem. I have also bought the steering box kit from there but not fitted it yet, will let you know how I get on. Pete

Hi Simon The 6v cables need to be thicker than 12v, as you are still 6v don't change them for 12v cables. Your original cables should be ok unless you need to change them around because of colour ie;red (pos) and black (neg). The flat braided cables are usually used as an extra earth from engine to chassis which is a good idea. Pete

Do you mean stuff like this? Pete

Nice pics Robin. No pre 1960 cars that do not have too many modifications done (there is an 8 point rule) need no MOT or road tax and classic insurance is also very cheap. Pete

Welcome John/Traci Great another UK Car. Plenty of help available on this forum. Pete

To save Pics. Click on thumbnail and at the bottom right there is a "close" sign and a "save" sign click "save", sometimes it opens up another copy then put your pointer over the image right click and go to "save image as" name it and choose where you want to save it. You can then go to where you've saved it and print it off. Pete

I had the same problem, no keys with the car. Managed to get 1 door lock out, took it to a locksmith and he made me a key for it. I was hoping that the same key would fit the other lock, no such luck. After days of trying to undo the little set screw which would not budge I had to drill it out, even that was a task I went through quite a few drill bits until I finally got through. I had to re tap a larger thread and fit a new lock with new set screw. I hope you have better luck. Pete

Thanks Merie/Chet With the 15 amp fuse everything works fine. I was just a bit worried that there was a short somewhere that I had not spotted but I would have thought that the 15 amp fuse would have blown as well. Pete