Jump to content

Ulu

Members
  • Posts

    2,252
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Everything posted by Ulu

  1. I don't think it's a kickdown switch. you kick down by stepping on the gas. I think it's a kickdown inhibitor. You can mash the gas and it won't kick down while you hold the switch on. I had one similar (just a button switch from Radio Shack) wired to my overdrive, as it would sometimes kick down when unnecessary, just like flaky modern automatics sometimes do. OOps..no sorry. I just enlarged the photo enough to read the instructions & it is the opposite. When you press this, it interrrupts the solenoid and ignition power for split-second, which allows the trans to slip down without mashing the pedal.
  2. Nice! I got this Milwaukee grinder at auction. I paid $75 (they're $150+ new here) but I also got discs, a cup wheel and a cup stone. the wheel and stone alone are almost $75 so I was real happy. This thing'll put some muscles on ya!
  3. They made a different one specifically for that. They used to have little fluorescent bulbs, but may be LEDs nowadays. But it's easy to check for a spark just with a lose plug wire. Don't hold it in your bare hand. Use insulated pliers or something wood or rubber to hold it. That 15,000 volt spark tickles when it's working. Just get that float leveled first. Normally you take the carb off, take the bowl cover off, & flip the carb over, then use a little cardboard gage they supply with the overhaul kit. Otherwise the factory manual tells how to just measure the float adjustment. I have the Holly model 1920 with the Vis-A-Flow glass float bowl cover (I don't run the Carter carb) and you can just see if the fuel level is OK. (I only used that glass bowl for setup. I don't think they're really safe myself. On the street I run the Holly aluminum bowl cover.
  4. DON'T crank the engine with a wire off to test the spark while the carb is flooding gas out the vent hole! We had a mechanic do this, and set a $50,000 road roller on fire. Scared the pi$$ outta him too. He shoveled enough dirt over the engine to quash the fire, with the air cleaner off of course
  5. Oh, I missed this totally... Charger au Go Go!
  6. That reminds me of the time I cut a microbus in half with a Skilsaw. LOL ................ I once locked my Edsel keys in the trunk & had to crawl through behind the seat into the trunk to get the keys back. It would have been a big PITA to take that lock apart from inside the trunk. Much easier to pick the lock. BTW, once you've successfully picked a lock, you'll have a much different view of your own security. I sure did.
  7. I don't see any lateral bracing, so it probably was a bit wobbly around corners too. I'll have to post this up on our office PC
  8. I always wanted a Wiener Whistle. I just noticed the 1995 model has the same headlights as my old Pontiac Bonneville. I wonder if they used the Bonnie taillights too?
  9. If you don't want to remove the interior panel, you need a long sharp needle to guide the post (tail) of the lock unto place. You just poke the needle through the panel and cloth as you insert the lock then pull the needle through. This is shown in the 1947 manual, which had cloth upholstery in that area. This won't work if you have leather or vinyl, unless you like holes in the upholstery. They don't show with the cloth, IF (BIG IF) you keep the needle and lock clean. If there's grease on the needle there'll be a grease spot on the upholstery.
  10. If they're not too worn they can be re-keyed all the same & fix the bad pin at the same time. New keys & cylinders are available too.
  11. Good point. My 3800cc Pontiac starts instantly. Click-boom! it's running. My 4000cc Toyota cranks a couple times, then the computer starts it. Not before. It has to kick up the pressure or something to trigger the computer.
  12. I managed to pick a door lock on my first attempt. I'd never ever picked a lock in my life. Just read the instructions. These locks are easy to pick and being worn makes it that much easier.
  13. WAY OT, but in case any of you guys are familiar or old enough to know, it wasn't called the Pinetree Line anymore when we were there. Radar was a couple generations along at that point and Baudette AFS was a "mobile" part of the SAGE air defense system. Their mission was directing interceptors to find unidentified targets. They got a unit commendation for performance while my dad was there, and I have his commendation from Congress ...for superior computer programming. (No commendation for the 3 wars where he was getting shot at, mortared, or targeted by missiles. ) In the old Pinetree days, Dad was on one of the off-shore radar platforms commonly called The Texas Towers. They were off the coast of New England, not Texas, but they looked like gulf coast oil-rig platforms. They were sitting ducks, and everyone hated serving on them.
  14. Not surprising. I've converted a couple old tractors to 8 volts. It makes up for lots of aging parts & a boon in cold weather.
  15. I think I'll build mine to run on eight volts, just to start trouble.... HehHehHeh... I ran my Plymouth as 6 volt for several years, but when it's rebuilt it will be at least 12 volts.
  16. I well remember "plugging in the cars" at night when we lived on the bases of NORAD's Pinetree Line. This line of radar sites ran along the US/Canadian border. In the middle of the cold War, we were stationed at a cold radar base, 60 miles up the road past Frostbite Falls, Minnesota. (I went to Lake of the Woods H.S.in Baudette & we were never required to attend school on days colder than 30 below zero. The school couldn't get the buses going then & couldn't afford to run them all night either.) Dad was on call at the radar base most nights. His car HAD to start even when it was -40 or worse. You never knew when the Russian missiles would show up on the radar, but unidentified stuff was always showing up. The place went on alert status frequently. We had heater hose "tank" heaters on all the cars, plus electric heaters inside the car to pre-warm the interior: Especially important when you have a Scout with no insulation in the body at all. Dad's Scout got parked outside 24/7/365, as did Mom's Mercury, because there was always a project car in the garage. That Scout also had an electric blanket around the battery and a heat lamp under the steering gear. Dad parked on top of the snowbank that was our front yard, and he kept the transfer case in neutral so he could get the trans oil moving & warmer, before trying to shift the gears. This is the Arctic Jeep heater we were fitting when the USAF decided to send us somewhere warmer. I still have most of the kit. It runs on gasoline, has a sparkplug to light it off, and a blower motor for a 24 volt system. Not shown are the various hoses, duct & heat deflectors for the Jeep, which were pirated for other purposes over the years.
  17. I've done it both ways, depending on what part I'm replacing. It's not that hard on the P-15's
  18. That big hub puller is the one for my Scout. I have one I built for the Plymouth, but it's not in sight presently. I'll dig it up sometime.
  19. Carlin Mfg, a local catering truck co, built one here in Fresno in '95. My ex-boss was a manager there. Harry Bradley designed it, famous for designing Hot Wheels cars & a few customs/protos.
  20. I had to empty a couple drawers to photo this stuff: The hub puller, probably from J.C. Whitney: Old wrenches from the swap meet. A couple no-name distributor wrenches, then the biggest is a Vlchek (Cleveland, Ohio), then going down, a Williams Superwrench, a Barcalo (Buffalo, NewYork) & a Plomb (Los Angeles) The Indestro & Napa I bought new. Oldest wrenches. No idea about the big one. the smaller is a U.S.S. wrench, perhaps from Williams ?, which is marked with the size of the appropriate bolt diameter, not the nut size. Various pullers and presses & a tailpipe expander: (Oops...tailpipe expander is in the first pic.)
  21. Wow! I finally found the time to read through this whole thread, and you guys have some strange, old, and wonderful tools that I've never laid eyes on. I won't post pics of my pedestrian Craftsman ratchets and wrenches, but I do have a few strange bits. The cobblers last, from Sears: Dad's vise from circa 1961, also from Sears: Strange aluminum clamp with handle. Probably for moving boxes of fruit. No-name 1960's bushing driver set, from J.C.Whitney: K-D tubing bender & old tire chain pliers.
  22. I have a pretty nice old crusty one, that I believe is from Dad's '53 Pontiac. The tip is brass & the shaft & head are chrome plated. The sticker reads, 115 v 650 watt Engine Heater Phillips Mfg Co. Minneapolis, Minn There is a sleeve & coupling-nut adjuster with it, presumably because it's a "universal" length, with adapters included. This looks like it would fit in an OHV head too. It stuck up well above the flathead 6.
  23. The dent knocker attachment I welded up for my slide hammer:
  24. Changing the tire with home made oak tire "irons" so I don't scratch the mag wheel.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use