Ulu

Mine looks so bad I don't wanna know! I gave it a wack with a hook on the 2lb slide hammer and it was like a solid iron block. Not a quiver. I don't think this one has moved since 1953. Looks like lots of water scale though. She's crusty! LOL I may just cut it & chisel it to pieces, but I'll try making a multi-hook device to remove it first. Also I have a 4 lb slide hammer.

She was divorced when I met her. I was married to her twice. Then She married some other poor schnook twice too! There was another guy too, in between. Also guys she didn't marry, or did. Soap operas aren't as complicated because they have to be believable, and I may not have the entire history, as I didn't really follow her around the past 25 years. So lessee...AFAIK she was actually married 7 times total but only to 5 guys. And therefore there were actually only 7 divorces. That I know of.

Point taken. I'll shut up about the Scout.

BTW, when I picked the Scout, I picked it (with rope) from 4 points: the front door posts at the upper hinge mounts and rear gate posts at the tailgate latch strikers. It was so stout & compact, that with this method no internal bracing was needed. We swapped one very rusty body for one solid one, and neither flexed with this method. The P-15s are not nearly so solid a "box". They're flexy as heck, even when not rusty. I have not pulled my own off yet though, and the one P15 I have helped with was a field rescue back about 1983. We did that one right there on the dirt, with a crowbar, 2X4's and wood blocks. It was a ghetto job for sure!

I mean the engine etc is all off mine, so the frame is all you must clear. 1.5' at the max for me. That's nothing. When I did the Scout, it was assembled, & the front clip was on. I picked the body up over 4' & sat it on 4X4's over 4 oil drums. I don't have the hoist extensions to do that high lift stuff any more, so I can't do it in one pick so easily. (EDIT..unless one of you locals has some heavy 6" & 8" round tubing laying around...)

You can damage the body lifting it even if it's not rusted out. If it is: Get some light tubing (light conduit will work) and x-brace the body vert & horizontal. Front and rear. Brace the door openings too. You can weld it in or screw it in, but make sure the body doesn't droop & fold as you lift it. You can also brace it with wood, but it's heavier and harder to do. I dropped all the running gear first, then let the chassis down on a low cart with casters. If the frame is stripped, you only need to lift it a little ways to roll out the cart. The lifting can be done with the lightest of jacks, as the body shell is pretty light. If you weigh about 150 or better, you can just lever it up with a 8' 2X4 an inch at a time and have someone keep sticking shims under it get the fulcrum close to the body and your 150 becomes like 1500 lbs. Plenty to lift the body one end at a time. If you lift side to side, there's more chance of damage IMO.

Wishing you continued good health Bob.

I've breathed it too. Not bad enough to get sick, but enough to last me. Anyhow, you can stick your face right over my tanks and pretty much all you smell is the oxygen. The soda smells a little, but it's mixed with the rust and general gunk & not much odor there.

Yeah, it's ugly, but just remember that some deluded soul loved this thing enough to actually build it.

My ex inherited interest in an oil well and gas line in Texas. She divorced me. The well turned up a bust. She's since re-married 5 times. Divorced 8. Now lives in my daughter's attic. I should make a movie about this someday.

Does the tank hold enough fuel to get it warmed up properly?

Naw, just to screw with people. Plus it was a neat old emblem. Huge and heavy with fancy enamel work. I shoulda kept it when I sold the car.

Good point. All the aluminum stuff I worked on were MC's , industrial engines, or VWs. All of them used regular torque values. That angle-torque business didn't really start until the 80's did it?

That was a Nash, huh? I had one of those Nash shield emblems on my '66 Ford coupe. That made some folks scratch their heads. Non-car-folks that is.

I was taught to torque all head bolts just before disassembling an old engine. That way if any threads are stripped, you'll know it before re-assembly time. This is particularly important on aluminum engines.

So 'glass, but what's the trim from? Did you make these?

Are those steel? They look nice. Is that a Dodge door garnish trim?

Mine look almost the same as Bob's. (Could these be for a ford? I've always though them a tad too low.)

I said it's not reliable as a u-joint. The shafts must be in close alignment. It's very reliable when used as designed.

No, you do not want to breathe the fumes caused by heating the metal to high temps. Even welding or grinding out doors it's easy to inhale the fumes. I will wear a resparator, and still I avoid the fumes as much as possible. Welding on steel coated with virtually anything that steel gets coated with, makes nasty fumes. Assume all of them are toxic. At Pierce Enterprises, we welded lots of galvanized sheet metal. (Not personally. I was drawing building panels.) We had lots of fans in the shop to remove fumes, and the guys would still skip around a lot with the welding to minimize fume exposure. They never removed the galvanizing before welding, but just welded thru it. I don't recommend this, ever. Remove the zinc around your welds first.

They're pretty, but there wasn't any bumping.

Every steel boat is dropping zinc oxide into the water & releasing bubbles, from its anodes. Nobody worries. Some of those chassis are electro-galvanized and some are like "redi-coat". (epoxy primer or similar.) The redi-coat comes off better if you scratch the piece up with a wire brush or sandpaper. It's very thin. It all comes off in the tank and I'm working outdoors so fumes aren't an issue. My porch smells like oxygen a little. That's about it. There will be zinc oxide & iron oxide when I pour the sludge out on the dirt, but that stuff is everywhere already. It's not like lead or chrome tailings. It what they coat the pig pan in (zinc) so if you like bacon you've been eating it for years already. (Some old galvanized parts, from before the PC revolution, had lead too, but this has been outlawed for years AFAIK.)

Needs a P15 button....

There is a way. In fact there is more than one way. One way is to leave the original cylinder and pedal assembly on the frame and take out the guts. Then run a rod right thru it and mount the new master behind the original.

OK. Right now things are sorta busy but I'm off work from Christmas 'til Jan 5.