TrampSteer

Looking forward to it!

Nice job! My search came up with the same goose eggs. How much to make another left-side?

I think I may have disliked bailing the hay more than the shoveling of snow. But it was close.

Don't know myself but if you do a search on this site you might get some clues from previous discussions. http://p15-d24.com/topic/36924-engine-number-identification/?hl=%2Bengine+%2Bblock+%2Bnumbers#entry381864 http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php Mike

Three-in-the-tree is more fun to drive!

I just went to my local guy and said "make it quiet". He put on all new everything from the manifold back. $300. Of course, I'm not going to be on the concourse with Jay Leno anytime soon either.

Follow up: Rebuilt using the wall-mart bucket and brake cleaner as per 4mula-dlx (fantastic), passages cleaned with a little push per BigDaddyo, hummed some tunes for Mrbrylcreem, Drank a coke for Oil Soup & Don and paid close attention to HOW the carburetor was supposed to work per Jeff. You wouldn't believe how nice it runs now. But you probably have to do all of these, not just one of them so don't skimp on your next rebuild. Mike p.s. nothing soaked more that an hour except for the main body which got about a three hour soak followed by a scrub / rinse with brake cleaner / blow out and another two hour soak with a final scrub / rinse / blow out. mistakes: not realizing that choke valve screws were swedged in place. Drat! Can you say easy-out? Discoveries: not all parts are there! The way the previous owner did things, I shouldn't be surprised.

I'm not up to highway speeds yet so Van Nuys is a stretch for me in the truck. I'm betting I can do L.B. after I get done setting the brakes now that I have Derek's cool alignment tool. Next L.B. Hi Performance swap is November 9th and parking is free. http://www.longbeachhiposwapmeet.com/

When I took delivery of my truck 8 months ago, we were horrified about the frame. The frame was so bad that when we saw the e-brake in several places (some in a box, some dangling from the transmission) any thoughts of fixing it immediately went on a nice-to-must-have list. Now that it's time to pay the piper, I'm finding I don't actually have all the pieces. At least I don't think I do. Granted, I did find some springs in the glove box (go figure) that look like they would play a part, but not all the pins and brackets are there. So I've been snooping around for some place to get these other pieces. We did find a (free-ish) donor (on the right). It looks to be earlier and we believe it to be late 40's. It is a top mount, and I have a three-in-the-tree so we thought we should just swap the e-brake parts. The lever mechanism's fulcrum attaches at the bottom on the donor, whereas mine does so from the top. But the parts that attach to that look similar to the book for my 53. And I do have the band that is supposed to fit on mine. Just not all the mounting hardware. I am debating pulling the transmission off my working truck so we can sway parts over on the bench. Just too hard to really know if it would work by eyeball. Do any of you fine gentlemen have an experience in this area? I'd rather find out now it is a foolish errand than when both are apart on the workbench. Thanks Mike

Looks like a beauty. Congratulations on your milestone.

I suspect that your neighbor will eventually become jealous and start lurking behind your garage.

Thanks guys. Got some great advice from Jeff over the phone this morning. This afternoon I got a donor carburetor my friend had for stealing parts from. As long as he gets it back he doesn't care if it is clean or dirty. I already dismantled and put it back together today for practice and familiarization. Jeff- I know exactly what you mean about the step-up circuit now. I am going to try some experiments tomorrow.

I had mine made locally in Santa Ana at a place called Deaver Spring. Any custom size you want. I think it cost me $40 for the rear end (4).

I could sing to it, that's all I can afford.

I like the price. I notice mixed reviews on carburetor use. Maybe the irate one just left it in too long (20 hrs) and it attacked the pot metal. Have you found it safe with pot metal? How long of a soak would you give it? I plan on a dismantle and soak. Now sure how long that soak should be.

Got up to 55 going down a hill with the engine screaming. And I have over-sized tires in the rear. I also slowed down as soon as I could as it was pretty scary. '53 1/2T B4B / 218 / stock 4:10 rear / three in the tree Pretty sure these were designed for about 45 comfortable.

I've read a lot of threads on servicing carburetors in these forums and have learned a lot. I still have a nagging question though. My problem is with the middle circuit. It idles great. Starts great. Runs like a scared cat when you hit the pedal to the floor. But when you want to accelerate, it is awful. I know one of the things that will help me is soaking or replacing that accelerator plunger. But that does nothing for the passages the feed it. I liked the Pine-sol and water 2:1 solution, or the Clorox toilet bowl cleaner. Not so rough on the environment or the wife's yard. But what I am really interested in is getting those small passages. I need them cleaned and cleared. A lot of the conversations turn to what gives the better appearance which I am not concerned with. I started to wonder if the authors were using the outside appearance as a guide to what the inside must look like. So am I off my rocker thinking that I will achieve a good complete cleaning of internal passages with such a non caustic soaking method? Thanks in advance Mike

But you gotta love that spotlight!

That's probably a Woodill Wildfire. Los Angeles car dealer who made 15 and about 300 kits. Pretty rare if it is. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodill_Wildfire http://www.american-automobiles.com/Woodill-Wildfire.html

Congrats on the new truck. There is supposed to be a frame stamping of the serial number on the driver's side just ahead of the cab. If the frame and cab don't match, could be that the cab was replaced.

Just read an article in Carcraft about this - generic. (Dec 2014) Not finding it online. Basically it is saying start from the bottom. Then the front. Then ...

My son is drooling over your airplanes. You are a very lucky man.

Paul - been having the same kind of issues. The leather can dry out from what I've read. I also found that there is a jet for the accelerator pump. I cleaned that and it was a good first step. You will have to split the carburetor to get to the accelerator pump itself. The bonus to doing that is you can verify both the balls and the leather of the pump itself. These two videos helped me a lot with understanding what I was working with. With a couple of adjustments I learned from watching these, I have it running almost smoothly - without the rebuild. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg19Cz2dWAI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5p4Y-s_Nws I have not rebuilt yet, but I may. In fact, I'm itching to do it...