9 foot box

I put a kit in my 49 P15 without removing the MC. I honed it with brake fluid as a wetting agent and cross hatched the length of the cylinder and installed the kit from the rear. The push rod and boot were removed for visual inspection of any blemishes by using a light at the forward port before assembly.

This is from my P15 service manual. When you do get the engine running and up to operating temperature, let the block cool overnight and retorque the head bolts in the proper sequence. Don’t idle a new engine in the garage for any length of time. Run the RPM’s up to 1600 or so, gradually, and don’t rev the engine when you’re showing off that it starts. Watch your oil pressure and temperature gauges. The real break-in for the engine is when you’re driving down the road.

If you have to move the front end, it would enable you to pull the right side of your bumper back into place. With the fender out of the way you can pull it far enough back to allow for spring back. The twist is an easy fix. I added a class 3 hitch to my 47 one ton. You’ve come a long way, considering the van engine change. Rick D.

Roberts Motor Parts has suspension parts for your truck. DCM Classics has truck parts also. Rick D.

It broke off the seat back at the first of three rivets that hold the rest of the hinge on the seat back. You can see that mine has a reinforcement added.

You have to pinch the two tabs flush to pull the clips through the body hole. I would clean the sealer off of them. I haven’t seen the last rearward clip available on your side trim, so be careful removing the nut. If you are going to leave the trim on for now, pressure wash any dust that has accumulated behind the trim till it’s clean. It might save what you can’t see. 10-4

This a page from a 56 Plymouth service manual. Rick D.

The part number for the nut is 865760. Vintage power wagons has them as CC865760. Restoration Specialties has them as 2347-clp. I think I’ll call RS 814-467-9842 and get a new catalog, mine is a 2015 version. Auveco has an online catalog for clips a fasteners. Rick D.

The original seal number is 1188602. The only replacement that I have found is a SKF 21820 and a SKF 99218 speedi sleeve. The cover has to be removed and supported for removal and install, so the cover isn’t damaged or distorted. Some of the bolts for the cover go into the water jacket, they need thread sealant. I put an oil pan on using this method to keep the gaskets aligned. This is a dodgeb4ya technique that I found after taking a dent out of an oil pan.

See if you can get a 5851 pinion seal. I think it would be better. You might need a SKF 99187 speedi sleeve. You’re going to have to clean up the scrapes and gouges on the housing. There is a press fit tolerance for the seal that make them stubborn to get started straight. So you want the starting chamfer on the housing neat and clean. The original seal number is 663602. The seal that you have, might seal fine, installed flush to the housing.

Besides what I have already stated, you should use bonded polyester thread. I did a search for the 7578 clip and found 100 for $20.

When I upholstered the seat in my WD21, there were some clips like this on the frame. I used dish soap to roll them over the new material to prevent tearing. I seen these on the shelf today and thought that I’d let you know. I’ve used hog rings on car seats but the W series trucks used these, because of the bellows design of soft or firm. Any material other than burlap, will make the cushion firmer if you don’t put the bottom panel back in. I have another seat to cover, I’ll do it different than my first go at sewing. My seat ended up as firm and firmer. I don’t have a picture, but I’ll take one tomorrow, and edit it in. Rick D.

I don’t have that vacuum tool. And don’t know what I’d do with it. Seems like it should have heavier tubing for suction. I did rob a vacuum pump from a refrigerator as a vacuum source for checking wiper motors and advance mechanism’s on distributors. When I saw that the pin on the advance plate had a groove for a retainer, I figured that an e-clip was the way to insure that the arm stayed on the pin. Seems to work, I’ll leave it on. I’ll save that one wire retainer that was used before e-clips were invented. They used cotter pins and horseshoe clips when our vehicles were built. Thanks for the input.

I have some distributors as spares. The original retainer clip looks like this, I lost one and replaced it with an e-clip from the hardware store selection. The arm isn’t going to jump off the pin, it’s just what I did. Rick D.

You could call them or email to determine if it’s correct to your measurements. They had responded to my inquiry’s in the past. Rick D.