-
Posts
1,507 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
wayfarer last won the day on July 2 2018
wayfarer had the most liked content!
Reputation
323 ExcellentContact Methods
-
Website URL
www.qualityengineedcomponents.com
-
Yahoo
hemi.parts@yahoo.com
Profile Information
-
Gender
Male
-
Location
Peoples Republic of Oregon
-
Interests
Mostly Old Parts And Rust
-
My Project Cars
47 1½T, 77 D300, 79 W150, 47 Suburban , 47 DeSoto ..all for sale
Converted
-
Location
Central Ory-Gun
-
Interests
all things automotive
Recent Profile Visitors
4,231 profile views
-
Adam H P15 D30 started following wayfarer
-
Dan's swap is an excellent reference for anyone wanting to put a V8 in a B series.
-
Resurfacing is a time honored tradition but....if the new wheels are even remotely close in overall costs the new ring gear should cinch the deal.
-
Yup. Put them side by side on the bench and the difference in the 'hat' is obvious. I agree that it is odd, but then MaMopar did some funky stuff over the years.
-
Correct. 230 wheel on 230 crank. No changes to the bell If you 'cut' the center of the flywheel to make it align you will make the center very thin...have you ever seen how much damage a flywheel can do??
-
No. Only the flywheel is different. The Ply wheel has a deeper offset to account for the different amount of the crank flange extension. 1" for the 201-208-218 and 1.185" for everything else. This is the 3/16" cut that is required on the bell if you use the 218 wheel on a 230... The combination of deeper offset and shorter flange extension puts the ring gear back where it belongs.
-
All of the L6 bells interchange BUT, the flywheels are different between the 'little Plymouths' and all else. You must use a 230 flywheel on a 230engine. Good news is that 'all else' includes 25" L6 as well as the v-8.
-
The overall width of either B or RB, measured at the outside of the exhaust manifolds, is actually wider than a 392 Hemi at its extreme width measured at the edge of the valve covers...but yes, the LA series is usually an easy swap. The A series, like Andy's, is a close second as are the poly head Hemi engines.
-
You completely miss the point of buying, or even making, an adapter. If the adapter is registered to the bell then you don't have to try and juggle the 40lb iron bell over your head while you adjust the offset dowels and then the dial indicator, over and over again. Is the average guy going to get it right the first time? while lying on his back? I seriously doubt it. Maybe you're better than average. Maybe you will pull the engine and do the work on a rolling engine stand. If someone is marketing a trans adapter they really should be doing the whole job; anyone can drill holes in a drill press.
-
Not exactly.....bolts are never to be used for alignment because every time it is disassembled you will be re-doing your hours of work with the offset dowels. It appears that you have never tried to do this insitu. The adapter needs to have some form of registration to the bell just like the front bearing retainer registers in the bell that the trans comes from.
-
The trans is adapted using a steel copy of the adapter Tim Kingsbury and AOK racing made. While I have not physically inspected one of 'those' adapters, most of the 'copies' that I have seen referenced in projects do not have any means to properly register the input shaft to the crank but simply rely on the attaching bolts to get-r-done.... Although the adapter is not likely to be part of your clutch issues you should check all of the parts to see exactly what you have. Swaps are not a bad thing but when you stray from the oem engineered packages there are often unintended consequences that will dog you. As for the adapter, if the trans input is more than 0.003" (0.007"TIR) off center from the crank it will damage the front bearing.
-
Can you get someone to crawl under and view the workings as you manually move the clutch pedal? It sorta sounds like the PP fingers have travelled past 'center' so they won't push back.
-
$4500 is a pile-o-money. We don't spend that much on a Hemi build. Forged pistons should be in the $100 each range and aftermarket rods not much more so the remainder would appear to be labour. I'd like to get that shop rate.....
-
As noted, there are advances in material sciences since the day your engine was built and although you could mix-n-match various brands of pistons it would be foolish to do so as the actual piston weight can and will vary from source to source due to variations in the initial piston blank and subsequent machine operations. Perhaps, if you don't mind some minor imbalance, mixing would work out but, any imbalance in a rotating assembly will add odd stresses to the parts. I am reminded of a customer who had bought a 350 crate engine from his gm dealer; upon disassembly, for the purpose of verifying what he had, the off-balance was measured in ounces...not grams. So, apparently, gm didn't think an out-of-balance condition was an issue. YRMV
-
Looks like some real fuzzy math to me...2008 to 2021 somehow equals 1 year...? Obviously, well to me anyhow, is that the IT folks just don't bother to look at the totality of the changes they make. At least they didn't wipe our history....
-
....words have meaning...... but with the advent of text messaging and the decline in quality of a public education 'we' are left to guess at a lot of communications these days.