61farnham

I used gas strut ball joints as replacements for these, see link for example, i'm in the UK but i'm sure something similar is available in your neck of the woods. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/356196305375?_skw=gas+strut+ball+joint&itmmeta=01K8GMXJEYEVZQ6XCR4SP83NAQ&hash=item52eef449df:g:InoAAOSwS4tnHkbE&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cwvgqETXAy2CDr19etHorraylnHfakN0LXlNbmO1NIqbiAEKxBhE4zHJixhzYfCyIJicOM3nlMhsvCz4mtdZ5LwQt2wfSLQk5Yt4AX1uzNTR2GQhnORXen72QNEuCBgKTt%2FAUY5H50bwXwEGtBVtmMPcFd36L4YYIg7f0aayEl7BOcSPlMtOJDIFTFefY9FTtQ3eZTTkwhQQhZjyQ0Bcxqepyc%2FPqYsrseehgzdeq0uotEquQUM0jmSeSZ45F81N8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9Kn9pTEZg

No worries, takes me a coffee or two to kick the grey matter into gear..

Nope, no pic flip here. Breaker bar/pipe are on the puller screw so definitely righty tighty.

Here's my method 3/4" drive breaker bar and a subtle piece of pipe for extra leverage!!!

Another recommendation for Then & Now rebuild kits, impressed with the quality and service.

Sound advice, appreciate your input.

Finally got time to make some axle shims. Started with 0.045" and now got 0.030" of shims at each end giving me 0.008" of end play with new bearings. The book states 0.008" to 0.003" of end play with a preference for the lower value. In a post above James_Douglas said he set his axle end play at 0.010" to allow for heat from highway speeds, my question is is it ok to leave the end play at 0.008" or should I remove some shims to give a bit less end play. I've not tackled this job before so any advice is welcome. Regards to all.

I was looking for similar info as the OP and found the answers in this thread, thanks for everyone's input. Much appreciated.

I recently had my spare E-brake band relined here in the U.K. when I had my brake shoes relined, cost me £25.00 for the E-brake band which is around $30.00 to you much cheaper than buying a new one. My Plymouth service manual states a lining thickness of 5/32".

Worked ok on my P15 engine so I don't see why not. Vintage Power Wagons only sell one kit so I assume all Mopar 23" blocks use the same length studs.

Typed that into Google and came up with nothing useful, I'll remember eBay next time. Thanks for your input.

That's good to know. Thank you.

Thanks, yes plan to down the line when I get deeper in to it. I've just pulled the head and was hoping someone has an answer to satisfy my curiosity. Regards... Simon.

Hi all, Just brought a replacement engine for my P15 Plymouth and I'm trying to establish what size the piston's are from the part no .stamped on them which is DPCD 954808 W and a heart shape. I can't find any reference to it on the net but have found the following - 954800 - standard 954802 - .005 oversize 954805- .020 oversize but I can't find any info for any larger sizes. It's a P15 block and I've got a P15 parts book but it lists different no's for the pistons. Anyone shed any light on it.

Wagon's looking good. Who did you get to do the machining work on your engine only asking as my Plymouth's in need some work?

There's a guy not to be messed with!! Great pic.

Check out this earlier post, I used the bushings and shaft from a '46-'48 F**d on my '48 Plymouth master cylinder.

Looks good, hope it works out.

That no.'s not listed but I've just cross referenced the '42-'48 no. with my P15 parts book and realised that the no's quoted in the Hollander are for the complete steering box assembly, the housing body has a separate part no. not sure which one is stamped on the housing. As usual with old cars it's not straight forward.

Is there a part no. on the box? According to the Hollander Plymouth used different boxes for the following years - '37-'38 Mopar no. 667206 '39 " " 691320 '40 854134 '41 867826 '42-48 953369

Not sure on the Desoto but my P15 Plymouth's shaft is "3/4 dia. same as the Ford.

This is timely as I'm just starting to look into what's required to rebuild the steering box on my '48 P15, according to my newly acquired Hollander manual the bearings no's for your '38 box should be - upper - Timken 5BC/6A lower - Timken 5BC/6C It list's the Ford '38-'48 bearings as - upper - Timken 5BC/6 lower - Timken 5BC/6C what the difference is between the 6 and 6A upper cup is I don't know. Annoyingly the Hollander doesn't list seals but if have the parts book or the original mopar part no. for the seal you should be able to cross reference it to an up to date number using the link below - https://www.allsealsinc.com/pdfs/Timken_Seal_Interchange_and_Cross_Reference_Guide.pdf Below are couple shots of the Hollander showing bearing no's and key. Hope this helps. Regards... Simon.

If money's no object then I could live this in the garage - 1954 Plymouth Belmont concept

Did this job last year, check out this thread. Ideally new bushes should pressed in and would recommend using new bolts as these wear too.

Thanks for that, appreciate the quick answer. $26.23 sounds a good deal, I'll phone around to see if I can get someone to match it?