P15-D24

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Did you pull out the lead plugs and clean all the jets?

Kind of agree with Don on this. If the vacuum unit is in good working order (as in have Wiperman.com rebuild it correctly) and the linkages are correctly lubed with the right wiper blades they work pretty good. And throw on a cheap vacuum reserve tank you get rid of the hesitation on acceleration issue. Or you can go gucci with fuel pump with vacuum booster or a Trico electric vacuum booster pump!

Definitely something wrong. Who did the rebuild?

You can get a 1 gal can of kerosene at OSH or Home Depot in the paint section. Also it's a good degreaser for cleaning parts.

The pulley is held on with 5 or 6 3/8" bolts. The big nut keeps the crank hub on. Use a puller to remove the hub.

Go to Reference, Reference Info.

You can putz around for hours trying to figure out what is wrong or just pull off a single shoe and see if it fits the inside circumference of the brake drum. If is does then you have an issue with either adjusters not fully retracted or wrong wheel cylinder pins. If it doesn't fit then then you have the wrong size shoes. Find a real brake shop and they can grind them to fit the drum or return for the correct sized shoe.

Both 15s and 16 were used on P15s depending upon year. I would not go wider than 215 on a radial. I have 225/16 radials on my truck and I will be going back to a 215.

Squishy? FYI I have 218 cores available for 170.00 in Southern Cal, pls freight.(Just haven't added them to the store yet) Before shipping I can have them checked and magnufluxed by my local shop if you pay for the service to verify they can be reground.

Never seen it happen.

Welcome to the site. If it started life as a mopar flathead it's welcome! We all go through a few changes as the years pile on!

Both the videos are great! Thanks for taking the time to put them together and posting them!

As MB notes if is is the 6 lug on a one ton, then get yourself a set of 16" rims. They are available in junk yards and other members. Plan on a 6.00 x 16. It will be hard finding a radial narrow enough but if you do you will need to run tubes and radial flaps. A truck tire shop is a good place to get help. and as noted these are lock ring rims, not split rims as they are commonly mis-identified. Also might want to check Hollanders for a list of potential donor vehicles. Pretty sure it includes so late 50s early 60s Ford trucks.

Really better off getting a tool to measure the arc like one of the ammaco tools or a home build version of one. Than way you can measure and adjust at the same time. Clearances are actually are pretty close. I'm out of town right now and don't have access to the factory manual but I'm sure another member will look them up and post them. (and I will add it to the Brakes technical article)

Have you tried Restoration Specialties? Check the links page.

+1

Go through the safety related items like steering, brakes and wiring. By go through, I mean repair or replace to new condition. Put in seat belts. then drive it and have fun. All the other stuff will take a lot of time and money. Stock 4.1 gearing will do 65-70 all day long. I would definitely not go to a 2.9 or 3.5 on the rear end. Hard on the clutch and performance gets even worse. Embrace it for what it is!

Thank you Tod!

Read through all the Tech articles on the site!

Welcome to the site! Looks like a good candidate to start with. Gotta love those big front grills!

160 for a non-pressurized system. Why do you want to give up 20 degrees of cooling headroom? These are not the same as todays modern engines which are designed to be run hot.

File Name: radio_noise_suppression.pdf File Submitter: P15-D24 File Submitted: 12 Apr 2013 File Category: Instructions, Manuals & Templates Set of instructions for installing radio noise suppression devices. Click here to download this file