p24-1953

Joe, roberst says they dont sell them and they are not listed on their web page. Any other idea?

Thanks it looks like there were all differnt lengths, so is it better to try to find a differnet driveshaft or have mine cut down and rebalanced to fit the new transmission?

does anyone have a listing of all the differnt drive shaft lengths for our cars?

it turn out that my "half moon" pieces were worn to a nice oval shape and will not hold the ball in place, so where can i get new ones at? what exactly would i ask for? would the part number be the same for a 53 as listed above?

well im getting a new transmission so this one wont be inthe equation. i thin a lot of the oil came from the fact that there were only 3 bolts holding it on and it looks like the section of the gasket is missing. yep the fly wheel is mated to the torque convertor housing. i think i was lucky on the clutch plate the revits are still slightly recessed and have not gouged the plates yet. where is the best place to get the transmission gasket?

i missed #5 5)where can you get a a boot for the clutch fork? is the inside of the clutch housing suposed to be slightly oily? is the gasket between the clutch housing and transmission supposed to be open like that on the bottom half? where do i get a new one? i only had 3 bolts holding the transmission on is this normal? how does the bearing look? it turn freely, does not seem to drag on anything.

6) the torque housing looked dry inside so i take it that means the front and rear seals are still good? i noticed that they used a sealant not o-rings like the manual states. where can i get the orings? or is sealant okay? what type should i get? 7. rear motor mounts ... i think they look okay 8. seals on the torque convertor. by the lack of oil on the exterior i assumed they are still good. 9. you think i had a oil leak on the transmission? last but not least there are more pictures at http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x117/ykp53/transmission/ it always helps when you have a helper i thought it was funny that every bolt i pulled had the PDCD stamp on the head. im guess that means none of this stuff has been messed with.

okay heres a update. i was having 3 problems. 3)it looks like the oil leak is not from the o-ring between the adapter plate and the torque housing. where could this leak be coming from? could it be coming from the rear of the oil pan? or should i pull the torque convertor and see how the o rings look between the adapter plate. the manual says i need a special tool to pull the torque convertor? what is the special tool? it only looks like the is a 1" or so to get to these bolts? how do you do it? 4)after i pulled the drive shaft i pulled it out from under the car and put gouges on one side of the part that bolt to the transmission? is that enough to damage it or make it out of balance? do the boots look okay, or do they need to be replaced?

okay heres a update. i was having 3 problems. 1st : the transmission would not stay in reverse or second. 2nd: the clutch pedal would only come half way up and would make this rum-rum-rum sound untill you picked the pedal all the way up with you foot. 3rd: an oil leak. I have ordered a new transmission with overdrive from george ashce, and since it was raining and i didnt have anything else to do i decided to pull the old one out. questions. 1) i noticed that the two half moon shaped bushings that go into the clutch mechanism were wallowed out where can i get new ones? would this explain the pedel not coming back up. 2)does the clutch look like it needed to be replaced? i was planing on having it redone any way since its out, but i am just curious...

okay on the diagrham it looked like there was some sorta of retainer clip. i guess i was staring to long

no just grasping at straws

could a weak battery cause this?

okay i may have messed up... when removing the clutch peadal linkage from the clutch housing i failed to remove ALL the bolts. i then jacked up the car removed the cross-member and lowerd the rear of the engine down about 4" to access all of the bolts. when i did this i heard a pop and noticed that part of the clutch assembly was seperated. I now have a ball that sticks out from the frame and a socket that fits over it , but what keeps these together? i thought something poped off but i cant seem to find anything on the ground. the attached diagrham shows the ball dashed and the socket is the part with the grease fitting. what did i lose, what did i damage and can i fix it easly? does any one have photo of a complete correct one?

its a new one that i just installed. its like the magnet dosent have enought strength to force the arm up. it seems to be in a bind. i probaly should disasemble it and clean it all up.

i am removing the clutch and housing on my car, and in order to do this i have to remove the rear crossmember and engine support. is it okay to place a floor jack under the oil pan to hold the back of the engine up while its removed? or will the pan cave in? the man. states i need some special tool to support the engine evenly while the crosmember is out. it looks like the weight is all being carried on the pan. so whats yalls advice?

desoto1939 yep set it according to the manual. it works really well about 50% of the time the other times it only closes it down 60% so , i just hooked up the manual choke untill i can figure it out.

mine clicks but dosent seem to have the umph to close the choke all the time. even if i have the throttle half open. what could be causing this?

also i commonly run 70+ on the free way and that ='s 3500 rpm (final gear of 1:1 w/ 3.73 gears). still running strong with good compression

Okay 15 years ago when i was less wise... i told a few budies that i could get my car to 95. they didnt belive me so we took off down a baren west texas road. that was straight for about 5 miles and took off. we got it to 95 and they said it was afluke and that i had a tale wind. so we did it the other direction. so using the RPM calculator based on tire size and gearing i had to be turning about 4500 rpm. and the engine is still running to this day. I know now that my speedo is about 10% off, but those guys never need to know that. 85 is good enough. its amazing a rabbit didnt jump out , or tire blow out , or something failed and we get killed.

one image looks like it has the compressor bracket welded to it? how do you adjust the tension? do you have any more images?

Lou, Im about to go down this road and am wondering how this set up has worked for you over the past year. do you have any more information aobut the size and guage of plate you used? any info you have to help me out would be appreciated. have you ever thought of selling one?

so im good on the a/c but what width should i get on the alt?

check out my newest find a 1952 international harvester fridge. it was working untill the original owner cut one of the lines last week in order to free a traped kitten. it ran for 50 years and was killed by a kitten.... so how can i repair this thing. can i soilder or patch the exg. pipe where it was cut out? it is leading to the condensor on the back of the fridge. how do you fill these units i can not find any place to pull a vacumme and install more refrigerant? what will i need to do to update it to new refrigerant?

george said he is sending it out this week. apperanlty im starting a trend. he says someone else has now asked him to install a overdrive on a hydrive.

Are our belts narrow? will they work with a modern a/c compressor? or will i need to switch to a wide belt? will those work with the exg. crank pulley? when i order my new alternator which do i need? Standard 3/8” belt Dual V-Belt for 3/8” belts 1/2” belt-2.6” Diameter 5/8” belt--3” Diameter 5/8 or 3/4” belt--2 1/4” Diameter