p24-1953

wher is the best place to get one? for a 53'. napa, orilies, kanter and rock auto do not have one listed.

hey i am looking for a 12v generator and voltage regulator. im looking for something the looks fairly stock. what can i use? do any of you happen to have one laying around you would be willing to sell?

did you put a spacer between them?

can you get two singles and weld them together?

where can we get a dual groove crank and water pump pully?

One more questions wouldnt i need to do somethign with the heater and defrost fans? will they still turn the right way with reversed polarity?

I have decided that i drive the car enough that i want to install a/c and this means i need to upgrade to 12v. 1.) what is the advantage of a 12v alternator over a 12v generator? if i went for a generator for the original look what would i need to do with the exg. external voltage regulator? will i need a new 12vt one? is it specific to negative ground or positive ground? do they have a 12 volt negative alternator? what part numbers? 2.) i will need 4- resistors, wiper, heater, fuel guage, and possible radio. Does it matter where these are installed? any part recomendations(AC Delco U1745 )) 3.) i need a new coil. any good part numbers? (AC Delco P/N U515 )what else will i need? will i need a ballast resistor or condensor 4.) does any one have a cross ref for lights? 5.) will i need a new horn relay, or flasher relay? Part #'s?

Does it even power up? hum... or do nothing? so here's what i did. i followed the instructions posted earlier. http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x117/ykp53/?action=view&current=Movie.flv

Will do tonight. does your radio work well now? have you worked with tube radios before?

I just hard wired a headphone jack in mine last weekend works like a charm. Ipod fits in the ash tray. Pull it out and you have full control. close the ash tray you would never know its there. i can post a few images and video i took if it would be helpfull. it took about $15 in parts and about 3-4 hours. I get easly distracted by shiny objects. so i think you could easly do it in 1-2.

after closer inspection, i found 2 things. first the jet in the bottom of the carb was so loose i didnt need a wrench to remove it. second there is a 1/4 long crack starting at the plug on the outside bottom plug going toward the main car body. i think i might have found my leak.

what else could cause the bowl to be empty? where else could it leak out from?

the bowl on my carb will be dry after sittting for a day or so, where can it leak from? how can i fix it? i think that it is leaking from the plug in the bottom of the bowl. I think the hole is walloed out or there is a minor crack at the plug. what can i use to fix this? (will jb weld work)

thats the one they just pulled off the air

okay, i enjoy driving around listening to the radio in my car and untill this morning we had a really decent oldies station, but now we have another talk radio sport program.. i can get 5 stations and all of them are talk, or radio disney. i guess time to switch to fm.. augh........

i am having a intermitant problems with my tail lights. they will dim untill you touch the base of the socket. it seems that they are not making good contact in the socket. is there a common replacement part? or can the originals be repaired? the black base no longer has enough springy-ness to constantly maintain good contact, i think

where is the best place to order a split intake from? george asche, sumit, moose, rusty hope?

tim, i called shadburns and we talked about it. when driving only one bow would pop down, and as soon as you slowed down it popped right back up. since that one day it has not happened again. we decided that it was because i was driving with a big box in the trunk and the vacumme caused by teh open trunk is what caused it. if it happens again he said he would remove the headliner, and replace the bow for $50 bucks. i think thats fair considering it has been a while since he did it , we reused all the original parts, and i think that has to be labor only to remove and reinstall the headliner

i have put a new plug in . it looks like the carb has a small crack there. what is good for sealing it? (jb weld?) would you have to use 2 carbs with the dash pots on a dual setup?

i know that the hydrive transmission requires a different carb. if you run a dual carb set up do they need to both be the special carb? where is the best place to find one of these carbs. (mine is leaking from plug in the bottom of the bowl). Can you run a standard carb on hydrive? what will happen if you do?

so tim what do you think of the heater core/ evaporator idea?

yeah i have look at the trunk mounted version thats the way i think i will be going.

okay, i know im beating a dead horse here, i have resigned to switching the car over to 12 volt. but i was thinking last night. with the limited under dash space in our cars there has to be some way to get a/c with out killing all the passanger foot space. and i started wondering.... on my 77 vette the evaporator was housed in the engine compartment in a fiberglass box along with the fan. Why couldnt this set up be adapted to our cars? what is stoping us from modifying the box that houses the heater core to also house a evaporator? and use the existing fan to blow the air? with the fan running 12v, shouldnt it run faster? and in turn blow stronger?

just happend this morning.. right before it stalled out shortly. I will let you know how they stand behind their work.

if it was fuel wouldnt it sputter and stall? not just stop. it was running and then nothing.... i pulled the air filter imadiatly after it happend and had the lovely assistant step on the gas and try to start it. the carb did have enough gas in it for the accelrator pump to work properly, so wouldnt that discount the fuel filter or pump?