wallytoo

how much clearance in your engine compartment? maybe that's a factor? my truck has significant space between the block/head and the sides and hood, so a lot of room to have air moving, even if it isn't moving fast. weight isn't a factor, because i'm at 14,500 gvw, and you aren't, but my truck cannot move as fast as your '38. my cooling system is still mostly original - radiator for sure, i changed the waterpump last year. i do run the heater hoses from the block to the heater core, and i don't close them off in the summer, so i do get a bit of heat loss/cooling there, inside the cab. oil is 10w-40 or 15w-40, full flow filter.

edit: you are of course correct. it is all about the efficiency of the radiator, the fan, and the pump. once operating temp has been reached, in the summer, that's where the coolant temp sits. disregard below... if that were the case, why run a thermostat at all, except during cold weather? i certainly run t-stats in all of my vehicles, all year. there may be some, but i'm not aware of car manufacturers that recommend not running a t-stat during the summer months. yes, the coolant in the engine gets hot. it's supposed to. these sixes can tolerate 220 in a non-pressure system with no problem. running a 195 or 200 stat might allow the radiator to bring the coolant temp below 195 or 200, so that when the stat opens, that lower temperature coolant brings the block coolant temperature below 195, even if only briefly; whereas with no stat, the block never gets below 200 or 210 or whatever. i can only go by the mechanical gauge i installed, and it vacillates between about 190 and 224, running a 195 stat. ymmv.

i do think there's merit in running a "hotter" t-stat, for the very reason described by @Los_Control. if the t-stat is allowed to close for even a short while, the radiator can eliminate some heat from the coolant more effectively than when the coolant just flows through the radiator. it may not seem like it, but the temp might end up bouncing from 220 to 190 that way (with the stat), vs running at 220 or so all the time (without the stat)

sort of been following, and have read the entire thread. i don’t worry about the higher temps; the 251 in my 1.5 ton is happy running 190 to a smidge above 220. put 100 miles on it yesterday, ran it hard at 2800 to 3000 rpm. i guess with this big truck, and hauling stuff with it, i’m used to seeing the temp run close to 220 a lot of the time. timing is set to 2* atdc, mechanical only, no vacuum on this distributer. the cooling system holds around 17 quarts, so that might be a bit higher than what yours has. oh, and stock 4-blade fan, no shroud.

my current other collection... ’87 4runner, my primary DD, since 2013. ‘87 volvo, wife’s DD ‘88 volvo, son #2’s DD ‘89 camry, son #1’s DD ‘87 4runner #2, my primary summer DD ‘88 4runner, a beater and the one i’ve owned the longest, since 1993

met up with the 2022 p15 picnic crowd yesterday. beautiful day for a vintage car (and truck) ride. my odometer registered exactly 100 miles for the day!

the tour heading to lunch.... and, what road trip would be complete without a little bit of road construction delay? got home, and the odometer was exactly 100 miles higher than when i left the house in the morning.

the line-up.. proof that i made it...

soon joined by the pic-nic crowd.... and the tail end....

early arrival at the "cars & coffee" stop.....

enjoyed a great day with the picnic tour. super nice cars, and an even better group of people. will post pics once i’ve loaded them to the computer. perfect weather, too.

to expand a bit, use the drift to strike between the studs that do NOT have the screw recesses, so as not to damage the seat for the screws.

i’d opt for the drift/hammer method to remove the drum as rob describes. the vibration should eventually free them from the axle mating flange.

ok, just down the road from DODGE’s general store. lol

thanks mark. i know where the pub in peterborough is, but i don't know where the cars & coffee is in new boston (i know how to get to new boston, just not where the event is)..wally

if work and weather allow, i may try to join in @ new boston and peterborough on friday, driving my non-p15 dodge b-1-fa-152.

b1 1948 & 1949 b2 1950 b3 1951 & 1952 b4 1953 the c series were also referred to as pilothouse in dodge’s own literature/brochures/advertising.

it doesn’t need to be a true seal, it was intended to keep dust out. the original was felt. i’ve run my truck at times without the bottom cover of the clutch housing. still has the remnants of the felt.

it's a "pit" to work under my vehicles in order to spray them with fluid film for winter rust protection. drive on, do one half, turn vehicle around, do the other end. etc. the space will fit a 4x8 sheet of plywood, so i can use my creeper while spraying.

mostly completed the project:

picked up some 7-foot ties for a project....

been sweltering in central new england the last week. 90s, with high humidity (above 65%). record high temp for the date yesterday. ready for fall weather.

i know several folks in my area that fly the marine corps flag. they didn't serve, but they have a relative (grandson in one case, son in another) that was/is a marine. i see it as honoring them by flying it. i have many friends who served in the USMC; not one is bothered by someone flying the flag. i would only add, fly a good flag, don't let it get ratty/tattered (remove it when it starts to show wear).

in the photo above this post, that is a boss mount for something, not a coolant passage/drain nor oil gallery. you don't need to put anything in it to use the engine. neither my 237 nor my 251 has that boss, however.

the discussion starter makes no mention about it being a restoration. it's just a nice truck, with some obvious quality work done to it.