MarcDeSoto

Here is the S-11 DeSoto clutch blow up illustration.

I got my pin out of my 48 DeSoto easily. I put the MC in a vise. Then I cushioned the end of the pin with some thick cloth and gently hammered. It came right out and went into my new MC just fine.

I'm re-attaching my brake and clutch pedals on my 48 DeSoto now. Does anyone know if you are supposed to unhook the big clutch spring before re-attaching the clutch linkage? Thanls.

I''m putting my 48 DeSoto back together right now and am not familiar with these bushings. Where do they go and where do you buy them?

On my 48 DeSoto bus. coupe, the left door has a broken door check. Way before I bought the car, someone must have hit the door when it was open causing the door check to break. The door flew open and collided with the front fender, putting a crease in the door. The arm that comes out of the door is still there, but the part that comes out of the door jamb is broken in half. Is there a way to repair this, or is there a new door check for these cars? Thanks, Marc.

Kwik lift has a couple of problems for me. First my car doesn't run so I can't drive it on. Two, it doesn't lift high enough to let me work from a sitting position. I like the MaxJax if I could find a used one for about 1K. So I think I'm going to jack up the car gradually like this. It's already 2 feet high on jack stands. Then to go about 2 feet higher, I will create a platform under one corner of the car using cinder blocks placed like you are building a wall, the strong way. Then putting a wood platform on the blocks and bottle jacking up the car using the rear axle on the rear end, and the frame under the cowl on the front end. This would be done gradually at each corner of the car going up just enough to get another two by four square under each tire. Instead of using a big floor jack up in the air, I would use a heavy duty bottle jack with a custom made wooden saddle to fit on the rear axle, and likewise another saddle to fit the front end frame rail.

Yes my 48 DeSoto has the original 237 cid engine and the brackets are long. Looks like about 6" to me.

I have 12 ton jack stands, but they don't go high enough. Those wood two by fours are very strong are safer than jack stands. A 3000 lb. car can't break them. Yes you have to make jack extenders with 4 X 4 or 6 X 6" lumber to jack the car that high and you have to go slowly inch by inch raising the rear, then the front until you get the height you need.

I also have a 48 DeSoto I am restoring and that drain plug on the bottom of the clutch housing is also for draining your fluid drive unit. I just drained mine because it has turned dark and is burned. I'm putting in the best replacement. Mobil Light Circulating Oil made for turbines.

Thanks for the tip. I did use lube and a screwdriver, but couldn't get it. One thing I learned today is I can't finish this car with all the work it needs at my age on my back. I'm going to have to lift it up high enough to work under it while in a sitting position. They have videos on how to make wooden car stands. Of course, jacking the car that high will include making wood lifts so I can jack the car higher than my floor jacks will go.

I had already installed the master cylinder and pedals on my 48 DeSoto. Then I got the push rod and end bolt to connect the MC to the pedal. But I couldn't get the rubber boot over the slot in the push rod. So I had to remove the MC and the pedals and put the MC into a vise where I could finally install the boot on the push rod. To do this, I had to remove the boot and the collar from the MC, but then the spring pushed the MC piston out and I can't get it back in long enough to the screw the holding collar on. I guess I need to put the MC in a vise and clamp the MC piston down, so I screw the two bolts in?

I don't know. Imron was known back in the 80s when I was painting cars as the super wet look and used usually on hot rods and semi cabs. But I think it may come in less glossy versions now, so I'll have to research it.

Yes, but I'm painting a 48 DeSoto. Wouldn't a urethane paint look too glossy for a stock look on my '48?

If you don't know what PCBTF is, here is part of an article on it from the Internet. PCBTF — also known as Oxsol 100, Parachlorobenzotrifluoride and p-Chloro-a,a,a-trifluorotoluene — is the most widely used solvent in the coatings and adhesives industry. PCBTF is used in field applied architectural and industrial Maintenance (AIM) coatings; marine coatings; auto-refinish coatings; factory-applied metal, plastic, and wood coatings; and in adhesives and consumer products, including paint thinners. The extensive use of PCBTF in industry products is largely because, in 1994, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) exempted PCBTF from its list of Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs). In addition, PCBTF has more favorable characteristics than other exempt compounds, for example it evaporates slower and has a higher flash point and therefore is less flammable than exempt VOCs including acetone.

I just called my local auto paint jobber and got a clerk who really knows his auto paint. In Calif. they don't sell the old acrylic enamel anymore. He said most new cars and new car repairs are painted with the new water based paint. But you can still buy solvent based paint and urethanes. The solvent that is used is a blend of acetone and PCBTF. They still sell the isocyanate catalyst for this paint, which is required. I asked doesn't the isocyanate hardener violate the Calif. VOC laws. He said no. Isocyanates if used improperly will kill you, but not the trees, and that's fine with Calif. So they recommend an air supplied mask to use it. Also they still sell epoxy primers. they also sell the old lacquer primers.

Yes, you're right. I'll do that. thanks.

I was just told by a friend that he thinks acrylic enamel auto paint is no longer sold in Calif. He said he thinks it's all water based clear coat, base coat paint. Can anyone shed any light on this? Can a hobbyist still buy acrylic enamel, or has it gone over to water based only in California. And can a hobbiest still buy automotive paint in Calif.?

The reason why is this: In 1941 when Chrysler and DeSoto got semi auto 4 speed transmissions with fluid drive, Dodge just got the fluid drive with a standard manual 3 speed trans. That lasted until 1948. then in 1949, Dodge finally put the semi auto M-6 transmission in the longer wheelbase models of Coronet and Meadowbrook. The smaller low-priced Wayfarer continued to use the fluid drive coupling with a standard 3 speed manual transmission that uses an 80w oil. Since you haven't told us what transmission or model you own, it's hard to tell you exactly what oil to use. So use either 10w if you have a Coronet or Meadowbrook, or 80w if you have a Wayfarer with the standard 3 speed.

Well, that's partly true. 10w oil goes in the gearbox if you have the semi auto transmission, but if he owns a Wayfarer model, that has a fluid drive with a 3 speed manual transmission that takes an 80w oil.

If you have the gyromatic, are you talking about the transmission gearbox oil or the fluid drive fluid. 10W goes in the gearbox of the semi-auto trans. The fluid drive fluid is a little different. This has been discussed over and over again. Many people will just say put 10W in it. But that is not good advice. There are many oils you can put in the fluid drive, but you won't get very good performance. Here is what you will need. Be sure to order it by the part number. There are some Mobil oils that look like this, but only this is made with the anti foaming agents that a turbine requires. https://www.grainger.com/product/4ZF36?RIID=58059293155&GID=&mid=OpenOrders_WillCall&gucid=EMT:10101010:SKU:CSM-348&emcid=NA:SKU

Keith is right. This transmission will only fit the 1941-42 Chryslers and DeSotos.

I already have a wiring harness for my 48 DeSoto bus. coupe. Is there a way I could get those detailed charts that RI provides, or scanned copies? All I have is the factory wiring schematic.

Looks like I'm also missing the End part 5-47-3 in the diagram above. It screws into the MC. I can't make that part, so I'm going to have to find one! I thought it might be in the rebuilt MC I bought from Rock Auto, but the rubber boot on the end is empty.

I am putting my brake and clutch pedals back on my 48 DeSoto, and am missing the clevis pin that connects the brake and clip to hold the brake return spring. They sell clevis pins, so I want to know what size clevis pin should I buy? I also need the brake return spring clip with the hole in it. I guess if no one knows the size of the clevis pin, I could try sticking bolts in to see what size bolt seems right and go from there?

I have some out of the box ideas on what you should do. Given your requirements, I would buy an old car that already is electronic ignition, 12 volt, and disc brake. I had a 73 Dodge Dart 4 door that I loved back in the 80s as a "go to work" car. It was very easy to work on and a great car with a slant six engine. It was the first year for electronic ignition and was my first car to have front disc brakes. Those brakes were a revelation to me! It was one of the most comfortable cars I've ever owned. I also owned a nice Plymouth Duster, but it was a 72 without the electronic ignition and disc front brakes.