MarcDeSoto

Eric, thanks for this great information. I didn't know that they had 6 volt DC plug in units to test car radios. You see I don't have a 6 volt battery for my car since it's been so many years since I've needed it. Not running you see. I'll try ETS for tubes as you are right that AES is a bit steep on tubes. Also it is a good idea to re cap the radio as the all the capacitors have probably dried out. You should also replace the capacitors on the generator and elsewhere to retard interference.

The Model T's there were built just a few years ago? Are you sure? What is your source for this info? I was told the touring car I was riding in was a 1914 model.

Well, I'm back after many months absence from this forum. I just got back to Southern Calif. from Henry Ford's Greenfield Village where I saw and got rides in Henry's Model T's which are still thick on the streets of Henry's village! That got me more than interested in finishing the long postponed restoration of my 48 DeSoto business coupe. I took the radio out which is the same model as in the Plymouths and Dodges, an 802 Philco model with 8 tubes. Although, you may have a 600 series Philco radio which has just six tubes. After reading that it costs about $400 to have one of these radios restored, I thought I should see how difficult it is to fix it myself. I just bought a 1940's tube tester for $15 so I was able to test my tubes. All the tubes were the small locktal type Philco tubes, so I think they're original to the car. The tube numbers are 7Y4, 7C5(2), 7B6, 7A4, 7B8, and 7A7(2). Only two of the tubes tested good. All the tubes are available from Antique Electronics in Arizona <www.tubesandmore.com>. They say that most of these radios fail due to a bad vibrator. The vibrator is an electic switch which takes the 6 volt DC current from the battery and pulses it so the transformer will think it's getting AC. If the points stick in the vibrator, the 14 amp fuse in the A lead from the accessory terminal of the ignition switch, or the hot side of the fuel guage, will blow. Putting more fuses in will usually not solve this problem until the points get unstuck, or a new vibrator is installed. I plugged the vibrator into the four socket section of the tube tester and it hummed which means it's OK, I think. If you have a vibrator that has failed, Antique Electronics sells a solid state replacement for about $30. I'm thinking of writing an article on my radio restoration and posting pics with it. There is a good M.T.S.C. Master Tech booklet on radios in Vol. 4 no. 7 c.1951. I have the whole kit with filmstrip, booklet, record, etc. My question is do I need to buy a 6 volt battery now to test it or can I use another power supply?