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MarcDeSoto

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Everything posted by MarcDeSoto

  1. The gear shift rod grommet on Ebay for $17 can be purchased from Bernbaum's for just $6 if you order directly without going through EPay.
  2. I thought that I could never find linkage parts for sale for my car, but I saw this on Ebay. It's a very important part, the bell crank. But it's missing the essential special bolt that is required for the bell crank to pivot on. Luckily I have those parts. https://www.ebay.com/itm/304078373372?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D2428ce8a290741c1a0897ed45f282068%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D224645200420%26itm%3D304078373372%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DMopar&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A21afaa6d-2d1b-11ec-ab58-764fc2b02dc0|parentrq%3A8006ea4317c0a7448523877dfff25e29|iid%3A1
  3. I would add something else to Greg's list. A spare water pump because if it goes you are dead in the water. Of course, make sure you have five good tires.
  4. Thanks 41, your pictures are worth a thousand words! The clutch return spring on my car is very tight, not loose at all. Your English is perfecto as far as I'm concerned! I've seen your car and I think it's a 3 window coupe. It is stunning! Marc.
  5. Already been posted. I supplied the Imperial club for example with the three filmstrips on the 46-48 M-5 semi auto transmission, but they already had the records, so they created the soundtrack. https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1948-volume-a-the-hydraulically-operated-transmission/
  6. yes that's it. Thank you. I think that's Bernbaum's store. The Parts Manual has the specs "1/4" I.D. X 15/16" O.D., 9/16" thick.
  7. Well, it's the grommet just above that number. Looks like grommets are more of a generic item than I thought.
  8. Looks like many rubber grommets are for sale, even from Home Depot. I just have to figure out the right size. https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-rubber-grommet-style-1-sbr-pk25-g3032/i/G3337411/?recommended=true
  9. I just checked Steele Rubber and not even they sell that rubber grommet that goes on the shift lever. Does anyone have a solution about making your own?
  10. I've noticed something on the bell crank. 41's pic shows a 4l Chrysler's bell crank pointed down. But the sketch I showed show the bell crank pointed up! I have a 48 DeSoto. Should I point the bell crank arms up OR DOWN??? THERE'S also a difference in where the shift rods go in on the bell crank. The the sketch is obviously wrong. I don't even know who drew it and they even have the wrong rods going the bell crank! Now I'm trying to figure out where the left rod on the bell crank goes. I'm pretty sure it goes to the right side of the lever on the shift rod. I think there is supposed to be a rubber grommet there. Do they sell new ones?
  11. I changed the the mounting of the clutch return spring as you said. I'm not sure if I have the correct spring as the Parts Manual doesn't give the dimensions. I mounted the bell crank with the arms slanting away from the bell housing. I changed the orientation of the spring hook to I hope the correct way. Look at these pics and let me know if it's right. Thanks.
  12. Thanks guys. I'll change it now. But the bell crank. Which way does it go on? with arms slanting toward the bell housing or away from the bell housing?
  13. You can clearly see the top bracket in my pic above. It secures the clutch shaft in place. Maybe the pre-war cars are different? I tried to hook up the clutch return spring, but it catches on the bell crank. Are the bell crank arms supposed to slant in or out? I think they are supposed to slant in. I have the spring bracket sticking straight out. Maybe it's supposed to slant down. I'm not sure if I got the right spring, but I think so. Here is Junkers pic of his linkage on a 47 DeSoto. Looks like his return spring bracket points down and is inside of the selector rods. Also, I added my pics showing my crooked spring hitting the bell crank.
  14. See my other post on removing the clutch shaft. I have a couple more question about Junkers pics. The rusty bracket with the triangular point holding a spring is for the clutch return spring, right? And what does this spring that is hooked onto the frame go to?
  15. By bottom bracket, I mean the two bolts that hold the over-center spring to the lower frame as seen in the photo above.
  16. Yes, I just removed it with instructions from 41Chrysler. Turns out it's no big deal and was easy to remove. I removed the two bolts that hold the heavy spring to the frame and it came off easily. Now I can clean it up so it looks brand new. Look at the shaft on the MoPar filmstrip and see what they look like clean. I'll bet they didn't look like that for very long! Here is the filmstrip and the clutch shaft is about 10 mins. into the film. https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1948-volume-2-4-a-good-man-in-the-clutch/
  17. Is it OK to remove the top bracket first to remove the spring, or should I first remove the bottom bracket first, or does it matter?
  18. I'm thinking of removing the clutch shaft as it's very dirty. Is that a bad idea condering I would have to release the over center spring? I was thinking of removing the two bolts that hold the shaft to the frame to release the spring. How hard is it to replace that heavy spring? Do you need a special tool?
  19. Thanks 1941 and Junkers! Yes, Junkers, I thought you had improvised on your spring on the transmission shifter. The Parts Man. gives specs for it. I found the bracket I was looking for that holds the bell crank. Thank God! I thought that the clutch return spring hooks onto that bracket with two triangular points. Or maybe that's just on the post war cars. Now, I'm thinking about removing the clutch shaft for cleaning. Is that OK to do, or is it too hard to put the over center spring back?
  20. Well they got rid of the drain plug. He didn't say they got rid of the fill plug, which would also be used for draining when you turned the engine over until the fill plug was at the bottom. That's how I drained mine.
  21. The main part I'm missing now is the bracket (19-52-9) in Plate 19-3 that is oblong with three holes. I think this bracket goes on first because there is a divot on the boss of the bell housing, and the spring plate would not fit too well if it were put on first, but I'm not sure. But when I look at Junkers first pic, I see the spring plate without the bracket on top of it, and I think I can see the bracket behind it. If I can find bracket 19-52-9, I think I will have most of the hard to find parts of my linkage. Then I will have to find the right size bolts, washers, and various springs to fit it together.
  22. And thought this guy on the video was well informed. I guess not. I didn't know that the early Fluid Drives had a fill hole and a drain hole. How would you know which was which? And why would you need two anyway?
  23. Thanks for the link. At first I thought I'd seen this video made by Chrysler on the 41 Dodge. But this is new. It's 45 mins. long, but only about the first 9 or 10 mins. is on the Fluid Drive coupling with the M-3, M-5, and M-6 semi-auto transmissions. I always thought that the 41-42 semi-auto trans. were called the M-4, but I was just guessing.
  24. Left side of my 48 DeSoto showing transmission shifter rods. In front is the clutch fork. The second pic shows the parts I found today. On the left is I think a door plate. In the middle are the two bearings that go around the clutch shaft ball. So I hope to keep finding more linkage parts or else.
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