MarcDeSoto

I'm still trying to remove the clutch disc from the pressure plate on my 48 DeSoto. I decided I'm going to have to remove the FD and clutch to do this. I am trying to take the bell housing off first, but I don't think I can do that without removeing the FD first. If I remove the FD, then I would not need to remove the bell housing. I think the only way to remove the FD is by removing the nuts that hold the FD to the crankshaft. So my question is can you remove the bell housing before removing the FD or is that impossible?

yes, they are wholesale only. I am buying my headliner through my upholsterer. he told me to call them for him. they have already sent me samples. Good to know they make good headliners.

I found this set which is complete for your Dodge, but I have not inspected it. I wrote them and asked if the rubber is soft or firm. I'll bet it is firm. Steele rubber does not sell the kit, but offers a re-vulcanization service where you have to send in your original mounts. I guess they need the steele parts. Again, I haven't checked their work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173244888404?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140131123730%26meid%3D005e0a4f6a5243c59edfa37cc5d4b0ad%26pid%3D100167%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D173602669472%26itm%3D173244888404%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D5411%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic%26brand%3DMopar&_trksid=p5411.c100167.m2940

Not bad. But I'd rather pay the $239 to have a headliner made by ACME of Long Beach that is made custom for my 48 DeSoto business coupe.

Bryan, You can hijack my thread anytime because I always learn something from your posts. I went down to take some pics of my bellhousing just to see if it had those mysterious holes. Mine doesn't have them, but it has an M-5 semi auto trans.

Bryan, If you think those motor mounts from Rock Auto are going to do the trick, you are in for bad news. I also ordered those motor mounts (made in India). I knew they would be bad, but I just wanted to see how bad. The purpose of Chrysler's cushioned rubber motor mounts was to stop vibration from entering the cab of the car's body. Those cheap motor mounts are so hard they might as well be made of wood or steel. I'm not sure who sells the soft rubber type intended by Chrysler, but you will have to pay more than $2.76 for them. Maybe Steele Rubber has some good ones?

I'm trying to attach the turn buckle to the clutch pedal and it requires a 3/8 X 24 X 1 3/32" bolt. Try asking for that size at your local hardware! The closest they have is 1 1/4" long bolt, but they don't have anything with a cotter pin hole at the end. I think a cotter pin with the slotted nut is necessary because you can't tighten this connection too tight because it will stop movement on the clutch pedal. So there needs to be a loose enough connection for the pedal to work and the cotter pin prevents the nut from coming unscrewed and falling off. And I don't think you should substitute a clevis pin on this high pressure connection. Can I drill a hole through the end of the bolt, or are automotive bolts too hard for that?

I happen to own a bunch of Miller tools that I got in the 80s including a huge Fluid Drive rebuilding kit with all the special tools! I have a junk FD from a 48 Dodge that I might fool around with to learn how to do it. One thing I've learned is when you take your car apart, besides taking lots of pics, you better save and catalog all the little parts that go on the linkages. They don't sell those little cotter pin bolts and other special parts anywhere.

I you already know, I am trying to free a stuck clutch on my 48 Desoto with M-5 transmission. I was not able to drop the clutch pan today because of one stud, so I pulled the trans. I used a floor jack to hold the trans. I remember that you should use long studs to hold the trans as you slide it out and when you put it back. So I went to HD to buy some studs. I bought two long carriage bolts instead with the plan to cut the heads off. Is it a good idea to use studs as guides when you install the trans? Next job is to get under the bell housing and try to break through the clutch pressure plate and the FD driving plate with a spatula to break the connection. For those who will reply to my question with READ THE MANUAL, about all it say is "remove transmission". And that is the extent of the detail. Even the M.T.S.C. filmstrips don't mention how to remove the transmission, or the clutch, or anything. One of the pics below shows the gear shift rod. I am trying to remove it so I can put in a new floor pad to hold the steering wheel and gear shift shafts. Does anyone know how to remove the grear shift rod? In the last pic, I show the long bolt I plan to use to replace the trans.

Thanks again. I do have one of those clutch measuring tools. Never thought of lengthening the clutch rod. Sounds pretty easy as long as I get it back to factory setting.

I'm putting my clutch linkage back together, but have no idea how you put the overcenter spring back in. It was easy to take off, but to put it back on would take the strength of Hercules! Any ideas? Do I need some kind of puller? thanks,Marc.

Moving back a step, how do you reconnect the clutch overcenter spring. Is there a certain order that you connect it back onto the clutch shaft? Do you start by connecting the turnbuckle rod to the clutch pedal?

It's odd that you say my swatch doesn't look original. I cut it out of a 47 DeSoto business coupe with the owner's permission back in the 80s. Look at Junkers72 pics. It shows the identical broadcloth in his 47 DeSoto Deluxe. The Customs were different since they tried to match upholstery to car color.

I found a very piece of the original upholstery for my 48 DeSoto Deluxe. This is the wool broadcloth that went on the seat. As far as I know, no one makes this pattern.

But if the clutch won't break free with the clutch pedal, then I might have remove the Transmission and clutch pan.

That would be fine if I had the starter installed. Not there yet. There is Youtube video of a guy who jacks up his 40 Cadillac, starts the engine, puts his wife in there and then lowers the read end with bang. Clutch broke free. Dodge, yes I thought about screwing the end of the clutch rod to shorten it. Then maybe I could break it free by depressing the clutch pedal!

I was trying to install my clutch linkage rod today, but couldn't because my clutch is engaged. The clutch has been engaged for nie on to 40 years! I tried to push the clutch fork back so the rod could go in, but it wouldn't budge. So I am trying to remove the clutch pan to get access to the clutch, but I think the pan is connected to the transmission. Do I need to pull the transmission to access the clutch? I think so because it looks like two bolts go into the transmission. When I get access to the clutch, what is a good way to disengage the clutch? I was thinking about using spatulas to break the connection between the clutch and driving plate.

I found about five pages of samples from leBaron Bonney, who are now out of business. What puzzles me is that they have such a huge choice of Broadcloths, but nothing very close to my broadcloth. Shown below are Bonney's headliner samples and one carpet sample.

Here is an old samples set sent to me from LeBarron Bonney about 15 or 20 years ago. It shows some better choices for windlace. The first pic is a bit out of focus because of the 1/2" core windlace.

I don't know maybe they sell it without the foam, but I think they sent it without so they could mail it cheaper. Yes, Bryan, you are right. I can't have the windlace clash with the headliner! That's why I'm being very careful before buying! Thanks for the original pics of a 48 DeSoto Deluxe. I know for a fact that is the original broadcloth, but I don't think they make that exact pattern anymore, so will have to select something close. Looks like the Deluxe had a fairly plain door panel with a tan headliner? above the leatherette part.

Here are the latest samples of windlace and headliner sent by SMS. I like the top windlace 1A and I'm not sure about the headliner. The bottom two look the best, I guess. I think the 1-E is called a taupe color. I'm really not sure what was original to my car. I have some samples I took from a guy's 47 DeSoto Deluxe bus. coupe back in the 80s. It would be great if I can find them!

There are a lot of things you are leaving out here. What car do you have? Has the car been converted to 12 volts? Does it have a 12 volt battery, and is it negative grounded? Does the ammeter do anything odd when you drive the car?

I think at least by the 40s, Chrysler used brushed cotton for headliners. I think mohair was used more in the 30s. In the original 40s cars I've seen, they used broadcloth for the seats, which is wool. On the leatherette, the vinyl samples shown above are excellent duplicates of the original leatherette.

Here's a pic of a D-24 Dodge business coupe showing some headliner material on the back of the front seat. It appears that some of the back area is in leatherette and some is in headliner. That is the color I remember as being original headliner.

All the Parts Books say is the headliner can be cloth or leather. Haven't seen any cars with leather, except maybe the station wagon. I took some pics of the interior of a 47 DeSoto business coupe in the 80s and I took at least one pic of the headliner. Maybe I can find it? I think the original headliner, at least on a Deluxe, would be what they called "brushed cotton" or "napped cotton".