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Jeff Balazs

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Everything posted by Jeff Balazs

  1. I added this feature to my 52. It wasn't too hard to find all the bits. They are on ebay quite often. Jeff
  2. Don; One item that I think is fairly important is that the ground connection should be made with a 20 gauge wire ..... just like the lead from the trigger to the coil. Also the connection should be a good clean one as the trigger is a piece of electronics that might not react well to any poor connections. And of course the spark plug leads should be modern resistor type leads. Hth. Jeff
  3. Don; I think you will like both. Well...... ....... as long as they were installed carefully. I know there are those who have had issues with the Pertronix system but as you know I sure like mine. I have found that NGK BR6S plugs do particularly well with this set up. As for the alternator.......well that is a real plus as far as I am concerned. I have a lot of accessories on my truck and it keeps up with plenty to spare. Never a worry. Jeff
  4. That looks real sharp Don. Enjoy!!!! Jeff
  5. I looked and I could not find any B series 1/2 ton rear spring packs that did not have 8 leaves to begin with. Can you take some out? Of course you can......but at some point you start upping your chances of a potentially dramatic failure. Particularly if you are still using the old springs. Jeff
  6. Very nice find! Have fun with it. jeff
  7. Paul; My 3/4 ton has the 9 leaf rear spring packs that it came with from the factory. Properly lubricated this set up performs just fine for everyday use. I am happy to demonstrate the ride to anyone who doubts this. Maybe the shorter wheelbase trucks need modifications to this arrangement?......this certainly isn't the case for my truck. But then I also do not understand why these trucks need to have a modified stance either. These were and are old work trucks. Trying to make them into something they are not IMO just sort of loses it. Maybe you would be happier with a 64 Impala short? Jeff
  8. Paul; The book clearly says 8 for the rear.....so I suspect a previous owner like you..... had already taken some out. Jeff
  9. Paul; I don't think that the 1/2 tons came with any spring options. Maybe you could get after market overload springs but I would guess that they all came with the same 8 leaf rear spring pack from the factory. That Iowa corn farmer you mention probably opted for a heavier truck in the first place. Once you get into the heavier trucks there appears to be a lot of spring options....and that makes sense considering the whole Job Rated scenario. Jeff
  10. Doesn't seem correct to me. My Pertronix trigger works fine within the proper timing marks. Perhaps the kit you have is not the correct one for the distributor you have? It seems more likely to me that the trigger is not positioned in the right location in relationship to the magnetic sleeve......and that is what is causing the need to be off the timing marks. If that is the case it can't be doing your engine any good. Jeff
  11. I have made a few mistakes in my time.......but never that bad!!! :eek:
  12. Joe; I suppose it is just possible? Just seems sort of odd that it only shows up out on the road. Hey but what do I know? I ditched all the drums on my truck for 4 wheel disc's because I wanted something that was super easy to maintain. And so far...so good. Jeff
  13. Really? Wouldn't it do this all the time once it has deteriorated to this point ..... and not just when the car is on the road ? I know these can and do go bad but from the OP's description this sounds like something else is wrong. Jeff
  14. Could this have something to do with the rear brake adjustment? Seems like something worth checking before tearing into it. Jeff
  15. BTW, I had forgotten what it was like to drive a no power steering, no power brakes, no AC vehicle in 90 degree, 85% humidity. Your truck looks awesome! And you will get used to driving it again. I had to drive my Daughters Escape a bit yesterday.......kept reaching for the clutch and there isn't one? And no handle to roll the window down either? the brakes and steering feel too sensitive to me. Modern stuff feels very weird after driving one of these trucks every day. Jeff
  16. Putting the windshield in is the easy part. Getting it to not leak is a bit more of a challenge. At least the corner windows once in are not prone to leaking. One thing I will tell you is they are best tackled with two people. Jeff
  17. Tracing down the culprit can be tough. Could be something obvious......or something less so like a loose connection or bad insulation. Try disconnecting one item at a time until you find it. Start with stuff you don't use often like the horn or the heater. Best of luck. Jeff
  18. I think the most commonly used weight of oil is 10w-40 in these engines. The detergent or non detergent question stems from the propensity for sludge build up in this engine design. I cleaned my oil pan and have a working filter so I have elected to use detergent oil. So far ...so good. If I had no filter and did not know what was in the system I would probably go non detergent. Hth, Jeff
  19. I don't think this necessarily means the problem is at the regulator. Have you tried disconnecting the lead to the ammeter to see if there is still a drain on the system? Just an idea..... Jeff
  20. Geekay; Looks like your doors are different from ours in the States. We have an access panel lower than yours and centered. Not sure if photos of ours would be of much help? The internals are probably the same though and very simple. If you can get the mechanism to lower some you should be able to lift the glass up and out. Once the glass is out you should have no real problem getting the mechanism out. It will come out via the access panel. It is a good idea to soak all the fasteners with penetrating oil ahead of time. If you do one door at a time you will have the other for reference. Hope this helps a bit. Jeff
  21. There is quite a bit of information on this topic in old posts here. In a nutshell.....lay the rubber out in the sun for a couple of hours to make it more pliable. Once your string is in place tape the rubber to the glass. Masking tape works if you use enough of it. Lube with soapy water. Windows go in from the inside. If you have corner windows be prepared to curse a lot......they sort of lever into place Jeff
  22. Ed; I was suggesting the brass ones as they are a little bit easier to work with and will not rust out over time. . Jeff
  23. Replacing the welch plugs isn't that big of a deal generally. You do need the correct domed shaped brass ones though and you need to clean up the sealing surface at each opening. There is a product which really helps prevent any leaks. I can't remember the name of the stuff ......I want to call it Indian shellac? Napa carries it and it comes in a small bottle with an applicator brush. If you paint the sealing surfaces with this and then knock the welch plugs in properly you should not have any issues with leaks. Hth. Jeff
  24. Mike; What is the wheelbase of your woody? FWIW I have the full set of leaf springs in my 3/4 ton 116" WB truck and they did not seem to be badly worn. With a set of gas charged shocks it rides very nicely. I see all the time where guys pull a leaf or two to help improve the ride. I think all that is a is a band aid for a badly worn spring set. The ride should be pretty good if the springs are still doing what they are supposed to. As others have suggested I favor finding a suspension shop that can help you recondition what the truck came with. Jeff
  25. Don; Great photo of the old bike. Thanks for sharing. Jeff
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