austinsailor

a new head is about $800 with something like a 16 week lead time.

>I’m wondering if, since you probably didn’t have any reason to realize >what was going on, you continued to operate under load. Would that >make a difference? I have no doubt that made it worse. But in the big picture, there were around 16 quarts of the correct oil and around 3 or 4 extra of the wrong oil. I would never have predicted that would have done damage to the motor.

This is only my speculation, nothing scientific. But, every old motor I've taken apart that has sat for years has had a massive amount of crud in the bottom of the pan. My guess is that oils have changed over the years and this is not as much of a problem now. So, if a motor has been apart, cleaned out or overhauled since you've had it, it's very likely it hasn't accumulated a ton of stuff in the bottom. By that, I mean a half inch or more of heavy crud, sometimes so heavy it takes a putty knife to get it loose. A motor like that, if you leave it in and rely on solvents or additives, or even modern oil to work it loose, is going to have that stuff circulation all through the motor. I'd rather spend an hour to 2 hours and maybe $20 max for a new gasket and know it's clean to start with. If this is an old motor you know nothing about the history of, I'd pull the pan. If it's a motor you've had and started out clean and used modern oil in, I don't think I would unless something else makes it seem like a good idea. As someone mentioned, oil in the cylinders is to make sure they are lubricated when it starts. If it's been sitting more than a month or two, that probably isn't a bad idea regardless of it's history. I've talked to people who put diesel in instead of oil, and run them 10 minutes or so to clean them out. They claim they get tons of crud out that way. I don't doubt it. I imagine they also get tons of wear that way. I had a caterpiller track loader a few years back (Now have a John Deere) that had the hydrolic pump start leaking and lost a few quarts into the engine oil. It didn't take an hour or so to take the mains out. Still plenty of oil, just not the right kind. I just can't imagine what could be going on with diesel in there. Anyway, there are just my thoughts. No proof of anything, except the mains in my track loader.

I've done a couple recently. I'd pull the pan and clean out the gunk. Lub the cam lobes with grease. Remove the oil filter and clean the canister. Refill with oil. Remove the plugs and put a fair amount of lubrcant in each cylinder. Let it soak for at least a few hours. Assuming you've got the fuel system clean enough and in a shape to work, start the thing. Be sure the shop doors are open. When the smoke clears, evaluate how it's running. The two I did recently (both had set for 30+ years) ran smooth and quit smoking after a half hour or so of running.

Mine is a 3 ton, much bigger and a cometely different setup. But chances are a good shop could find something to fit. I say that without having seen a box like yours taken apart.

My local NAPA has come up with every one I've looked for. They had listings for my 48, I bought all 6 plus master from them. I'd guess they have yours too. Seems like the price was a couple dollars more than Roberts listing, but not much.

I've done a number of split rings. I sandblast everything to bare metal, repaint, then use it. I don't have a cage, but I slip it under a parts car to air it up. No local shop will work on them. Well, not exactly true - they won't put air in them. They give them back to you flat. That is even worse, as you have no idea what it looks like inside and how it's fitting. I'm not out there right now, but I think they are 5 bolt wheels. I'll get pictures and maybe someone can tell me what my chances are of finding one. I hope it's not a Canada/Fargo only thing and I have to go back north to find one!

The machinist who does the old ones here, and did my steering box, came up with a modern seal that fit just right. I'd be surprised to find that there isn't something modern that would fit. The big challenge would be to know where to look. Maybe a bearing house that specializes in those sort of things?

I have a '51 Fargo 1 ton that I hauled back from Manitoba recently. It has no spare tire, but the wheels are different than I've seen. I've seen split rims and split rings, but this has rings that are not split. I'm assuming that you get the air out of the tire, mash it down and the ring will slide off sort of like a tire does, going down into a depressed part of the wheel, coming off at an angle. Since I have no spare, I'm going to be looking for a wheel. What do I call this thing? Loose ring? Are they common? Should I just start trying to find something with the same bolt pattern so I have something?

The boxes were designed to take heavy oil. The problem is, seals get old, it leaks and people put grease in instead of oil. Then the problem is, the grease doesn't get to all the surfaces it needs to. My first choice is to put new seals in and use heavy oil that will flow into all the bearings and bushings. My 47 3 ton had a bushing at the output that was especially hard for the oil to get to. It had grease in it with a grease fitting installed into the fill plug. It was very worn out, but only at the shaft just before the seal. We machined down the shaft until it was smooth again, machined a new bushing, put in a new seal and it works great. It holds 90 weight just fine now. The '48 I am now driving had a perfectly tight steering box, and it is full of 90 weight, the same as it probably was from the factory. It does not leak. In my opinion, it should have something that will flow. Not wheel bearing grease, not anything that will stay where you put it. It's got to move on it's own to get into the places it has to lubricate.

I had no idea there even was such a thing. Now I have something else to watch for.

When I'm 2000 miles away, it seemed like Seattle area. What can I say?

http://kpr.craigslist.org/cto/1672046755.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/1706112614.html

>you ever ask about the whole bed? I sent an email to his neighbor but haven't heard back. I'll try to call tonight. Gene

I drove my old rusty '48 to a Corvette show last weekend. One of my friends, a lady in her 50's, loved it. She asked me to find her one like it. Took a couple days, but I found another for her about 15 miles away. Solid floors, motor is not stuck, not rusted out, just rusty as ordered.

There are several ahead of it, but it's a 6 cylinder fluid drive, was running not so long ago. Missing the stainless on the rockers, and the pot metal trim going around the right front fender. Otherwise, all there. Except the taillight lenses, of course. I'm beginning to have too many projects. Didn't think that could happen, but, oh well. It should run with a little effort. Brakes will have to be redone, but a little tinkering with the motor should get her up and going.

Saved it from the crusher. No dents, no rust, interior usable. Scrap price. How much better can it get?

No, he scraps whatever comes along, usually 70's and 80's cars. I bought some doors and hoods from these two trucks and he realized there was a market for them so he's watching out for dodge trucks. There is little to no local market, so he's grateful that I'll help him move these. He doesn't see many old ones, and all there is in his yard, at least then I was there, was the remains of these two trucks and a lot of washing machines and that sort of stuff. But if anything old comes along I'm sure he'll tell me.

For the first couple hundred miles you want to make numerous slowdowns and speedups, pulling hard on the motor, nearly lugging it, to seat the rings. If you read old car owner's manuals, they'll all tell you to "vary" the speed for X miles. That is the purpose. Just changing speed really doesn't help much unless you are pulling fairly hard as you speed up. The only other suggestion I have is to use oil with high zinc content. I knowthis will be controversial. But I say it anyway. I keep a drum of Rotella 30 of the old formula for this, but there are additives.

Try just making many tiny spots. I go along and just tap the trigger, making just a tiny spot. "Stitching" is a term I've heard for this. In fact, I saw a video some years ago of a welder that had a setting for this. You pulled the trigger, and it would just do a fraction of a second "sap" wait "zap" and so on. I don't have a machine like that, but use my trigger finger to do the same thing. Just barely enough to make a tiny puddle, then wait. You can keep the metal red, but not melting it except that one spot where the wire hits. I've taken pretty rusted, thin jagged spots, gone all around the thin area around the hole like that. It'll melt back just a little until you get a thicker edge built up, but eventually it'll make a solid enough edge to work too. I seldom use the trigger on continously. Lots and lots of little spots. You can actually weld on the edge of a piece of sheet metal and build up and replace some missing metal this way. Of course, you'll have to grind it some to make it smooth. I use a welder with gas, not the flux core, it might not work quite as well with flux core.

Bernbaum has it for $79. That is where I got mine and I thought that was high.

What kind of lock cylinder are you looking for? Door, ignition or?

I just responded to you by pm, then found this! It shouldn't be full as of a couple days ago, I've tried to keep it cleaned out. I checked that parts truck I have here, they are 1.25 at the inner bearing race. Truck seems to be 3/4, has 3/4 hubs and brakes all around. 3/4 wheels. I can also try to get the spindles off the one up there, shouldn't be a problem. It'll be a few weeks, though. Gene

I'll be going up 35 to Duluth, so it can't work. Sorry Ed. I'll ask about the bed. I think it had a good tailgate as well. I'll get more info, price and hopefully a picture or two soon. Gene