austinsailor

My brother ended up in a coma for a week many years ago from a similar heater. Got gassed by CO2, if my father hadn't found him when he did, he'd not have made it. It was touch and go for a week, and he's never been right since. Those things are dangerous. Get a modern heater with proper venting.

Depends on the route, but if timing allows it would be nice. Surely there is something that needs to be moved. Seems a shame to run empty.

I have to go to Canada to pick up that one ton Fargo I bought on Ebay. I'll be going sometime in the next month, probably before Christmas. I'll be going up with an empty trailer. Space is available. A little help with gas would be nice, but not required. If I can help get one to the new owner, a parts truck delivered or whatever, let me know. Up to a 1 ton. The trailer won't handle a bigger one. I'll be leaving from central Mo. I can go up I-35 through Des Moines and Minneapolis, or up I-29 through Omaha and Sioux City. If I can help someone, let's talk. I won't take one across into Canada, but could get it close.

I'm leaving Sunday morning any so far nobody here or on the 39 - 47 truck group has experssed a need.

It's over in Fulton now, it's a bigger, fancier place now. Big tourist place.

We're sitting on our sailboat in Rockport. Had my 48 Pilot house down here about 2 weeks ago to get a title. This week it's been sailboat work. Last trip I brought the '48, got the police inspection, lots of paperwork, had to wait on some more to come back in the mail. Nobody else wanted to see the truck, had everything on the checklist done. Took it back to Mo. Went in today to turn in all the paperwork, they wanted it weighed! Hell, it's 1000 miles from here now. With a little "discussion" they decided they'd take the weight out of the book. Now I just need to wait. Fredricksburg is a cool place. Glad you enjoyed it.

I'm heading from the Corpus Christi, Tx area to Central Mo in a couple days with an empty trailer. Anyone got something they'd like to take a ride?

It won't take the last 2 letters of my login name. Guess it's got to be a shorter name.

If I hadn't just bought the $200 1 ton in Canada I'd jump on it. I guess there is a limit.

Using the VIN decoder, it shows it was made in Canada, motor number T311. The list of truck engine numbers shows T310 as a 23" 230, T314 as a 25" 236 or 265. T311 is not shown. Now I'm curious. I've read here that all Canada motors were 25", so what in the heck do I have? It's going to be a month or two before I can go get it.

Hard to start the 48 hour clock when we'reom south Texas and the truck is in Canada!

She has no clue. How do you break the news that we're taking a trip way north of International Falls, Mn in the middle of the winter, when she's here sunning herself in South Texas, wanting to go to the Caribbean? I might be in trouble!

Look what you guys did to me. Now I have to go to Canada in the middle of the winter.

I just replaced all the seals on my 1/2 ton with NAPA SKF seals. Seemed very cheap, very flimsy. And, as I drove the seals in the axle housings, the springs in each poped out, making them less effective. And they cost about $20 each, not cheap. Anyone else finding them to be inferior?

I might own a nice 3 window by tomorrow. I wonder how practical it would be to cut out the corner windows and graft them in? Would seem a simple job.

Don't know if it has seats, but the body looks nice. Let me know if you need a link and I'll find it when I get home. I have one with seats, but I'm keeping them. Gene

Pictures often make things look a lot better than they are, but the back of the cab looks like it's in fine shape. I don't see any rust or dents. A guy could just cut it behind the seat, and at the windshield posts and mate to another with those parts shot and make a good one pretty easy.

There is a special socket for those, but I haven't seen one in 30 years. I put mine in with a normal wrench. There is one size that will fit, although I don't recall what it is. I just tried them till One worked.

I've been talking to the guy who has it. I'm interested, but I don't think I should get involved - too many trucks, too far away. But, here are some more pictures he sent me. Also, it has a power takeoff and a twin cylinder hoist under it. It's missing the pto shaft and generator.

You mention restored. You also mention that you think with little effort you could get it into a running state. Get it into a running, driveable state, then think about it some more. Not every one of these has to be a restoration. Just make a driver out of it. I recently bought a '48 B1B that had been in a barn for 20+ years and my goal is to drive it just as it came out of the barn. At least to the casual observer. It's got new brakes, seals, hoses, brake lines, cylinders, all that. But it looks like it just came out of the barn. You might find that you get quite a bit of enjoyment out of it just as it is. And I'll be your son will for sure.

If I had a truck like that had been in my family since new there is no way I'd part with it, end of story.

Anyone know what is involved?

Yes, he found 2 of them, that was all he could locate. I got one truck going, I have another. At $80 a pop when and if they can be found it's time to look at other options. The original yoke will only take the one ujoint. It's possible a machine shop could give you other options, but not easily or cheaply. The yoke that takes the ball and trunion is just a flat flange. They can make a new drive shaft to fit it with modern $15 ujoints available everywhere. I know, I had one made for my 40 dodge sedan. Cost about $300, done forever. What I might do is replace the yoke on the tranny, then put a higher geared axle, like a Dakota, then have a driveshaft made to fit that combo. It sounds like the yoke swap has enough possibilities to look into it.

My B1B has the oddball ujoints, the ones that press in from the outside with plates over the ends to hold them in. (Cleveland brand) I found one to get my pickup going, and I still have to tackle the panel truck. I'm wondering if I couldn't just swap out the yokes from, say, my 40 dodge parts car and go to a different style u-joint. I can have a whole new driveshaft made with modern u-joints for not much more than 2 of the old style joints, assuming I can even find more. Has anyone tried putting the car yokes, or another yoke taking a more common ujoint, in to replace these? I have all the parts to try this, but it'd be half a days work to find out.

Thanks Eric, I'll get the body numbers from him and run them.