austinsailor

We're waking up on the Wal-Mart parking lot in Ottumwa, Ia this morning. This rig is doing ok. As to hauling, the previous episode was a haul of the '51 Fargo from Inwood, Manitoba to central Missouri about 6 weeks ago The border crossing guys thought we were nuts. Gene G.

I'm going to be at the back to the 50's this weekend. Anyone else? I won't be driving a pilothouse, but I'll be hauling one. I'm picking up my 49 COE Wednesday, then heading back south to the car show. I'll be the guy with an '05 Dodge dually hauling a '60's Avion aluminum pickup camper (sort of like an Airstream in the back of a truck) and pulling a 40' flatbed trailer with a 1 1/2 ton COE. And some antique outboards and who knows what else. Gene G. From central mo

Vacuum operated, double reduction. A vacuum leak can leave you in neutral in the rear end - no go and and no emergency brake! I've posted this before, but what the heck: http://www.austinsailor.net/47_dodge/47dodge.html Mine is a 331 CI. Gene G.

We can have saw wars - mine is 16" 5 hp 3 phase. Uh oh - we're getting off topic. I'll use mine to rip boards for the bed. Ok, we're back on truck topics now.

http://www.estatesales.net/estate-sales/111168.aspx

I'm trying to get some information about the parts you wanted from the trucks in Minnesota. Please pm me or email at austin dot sailor at yahoo dot com. Thanks, Gene

The differential will double the speed of the drive shaft if only one wheel is turning. Therefore, it's 4 to 1, or more likely, 4.11 to 1.

Go to craigspal.com and download the free version of the craigslist search engine. Search the whole country every couple days for "dodge Coe" I'll bet you find many choices.

Interesting question about the rubber vs metal line. I did have a metal stub on the fuel pump, about 6" long, and a rubber line from there drooping down on the right side, then through a hole in the rusty floorboard to an outboard tank sitting on the right floorboard. I don't recall having a vapor lock (or whatever problem it really is) while it was set up that way. I was a bit concerned having that gas right there in the cab with me, and I was making a new tank, so I ran a steel line exactly as the original one was, and it went back to the bed/cab joint and turned up. I then put the rubber line on that with the tank in the bed. Then the problem started. I have a new aluminum tank nearly finished, but I'm reluctant to install it. If I have a vapor lock problem with it, I won't have the bulb to push new gas through. I'd have to wait for the cool down. But, thinking this through, maybe what I need to do is put a rubber line over the steel line to insulate it. I would guess that would solve the whole problem. I'll report back when I get that done. And I feel sorry for Don - never had a boat? I have about 15, need one? In fact, I'm typing this sitting on my sailboat in Texas this morning.

Can anyone explain why, when I'm experiencing what I believe is vapor lock, I can pump about 6 squeezes of the outboard bulb before getting resistance? Where would this fuel be going? It starts just like normal as soon as it's pumped to get resistance.

I'd strongly suspect vaperlock. On my 48 I just resurectedi'm having a big problem with it. I think today's fuel is contributing to it. In you case, the higher elevation would make you more likely to experience it. Mine runs just great, but if I stop for much longer than a stoplight after running at highway speed more than 2 miles or so, I'm toast. Since I still have a outboard tank and primer bulb I can just give it a few squeezes and I'm off again. Pouring gas in the carb or using starter fluid would fire it up but I do not know if it would overcome the vapor and start pumping fuel or not. I'm going to try several things. I bought a quart of lead additine at a vette meet last week, it's supposed to raile the boiling point of fuel something like 50 degrees. Should help a lot, but it's a contuing expense. I'll also try av gas. If eiter or both solve it, I should be confident vapor lock is really the problem. Next step is to insulate the fuel line real well to try to stop it. Should be better than clothes pins, although not quite the conversation piece. I know insulting the fuel line isn't period correct, but they didn't have to deal with this crap-for-fuel we have today.

There have been a lot of old trucks listed from Garden Valley, and I've talked to a few of the guys there. The whole area seems to be one big stash of trucks and parts. What is it about that area??

I thought I might have the only '51 Fargo pickup in Missouri, but I guess not.

23" 230 ci from '51 to '53.

I actually talked to the lady in parts, we talked in detail and she said they were 16" diameter tires. Sure sounded good. We even talked about exactly the truck and wheel size they were going on, tubeless or not. I guess the old "if it's too good to be true......" applies. I have to wonder what the "16" refers to???

These are 8" trailer tires. Ours were shipped, but they are able to call UPS and get them re-routed back to them. Saved by a very talented lady at that company. Back to the drawing board.

>Trailer tires are designed specifically to operate on trailers. >I would't mount them on a driving vehicle. In this case, they'll be driven on maybe 100 miles a year, not over about 45 MPH. I'm curious what sort of problems we might expect.

If it pumps up solid it's not air. One or more of your shoes has to have a problem. With the effort you've already done, what I'd do is adjust all 8 shoes out good and tight. Wheels won't turn, but you should have a solid pedel. Assuming that goes as expected, I'd loosen and adjust as well as I could one wheel at a time. Check the pedel after each one. It should show you something - either one wheel is causing a lot of problem, or all four if it gets equally worse as you move to the next wheel. If that is the case I'm guessing there is a problem with maybe linings loose or major adjustment way out. Something else comes to mind. Many years ago I was turning the adjusting cams the wrong way. You can actually get it to feel kind of ok doing that, but it won't last long at all. Could that be the problem?

We just ordered 4 for my Dad's 41 Chevy pickup. He'll drive it 100 miles in the next 5 years, so it'll probably be just fine.

They have 18 in stock, bit they are trailer tires. I'm not sure if that is a problem or not. Thoughts?

I've got 4 generators laying on the bench now. And a friend with a machine shop behind his house. I should be able to get a few spares together.

None anywhere around. We had a pretty good one open about 4 years ago, I used them often. Last year they packed it up. People will pay more to get one that came off the shelf than have theirs repaired properly. I'm not sure if it's the day or two it takes, they don''t care about cost, or some misconception that one that comes from far away must be better. I've always had better luck with one fixed in a local shop by someone you can talk to. I'm off to find a proper puller so I can fix mine.

I made a bo bo the other day. I was running a new gas line on my B1B and the generator wires were in the way. I tired to take the wires off the generator and after making about 3/4 of a turn on the field post, I realized my lower wrench wasn't actually on the nut and the whole post was turning. Forward about 5 days, this morning my battery was low. Rolled it, looked at the amp gauge, no charge. I knew at once what was wrong. Popped off the generator, didn't have enough tools to get it apart. Pulled the generator off my 40 Dodge parts car. It's stuck. Pulled the generator off the motor out of the 48 dodge 3/4 parts truck. Bolted it up but the end plate was different, adjustment wouldn't line up. Tried to pull the adjustment arm off the parts motor but the water pump bolt was probably going to break before it came out. Started to pull the generator off the 48 Desoto motor waiting to be rebuilt (and rodded), it was pretty squeeky. Moved on. Took the generator off the 42 Plymouth waiting for it's turn to get running. Now, this one was a chore. Battery box is right beside it, the ground is on one of the mounts, the generator won't swing all the way down to give easy access. A lot of scraps later, it was out. Slapped it in, now I get 30+ amps! I still had a 51 Fargo and a 49 Chrysler to try.

Your problem probably stems from the fact that most vehicles of this era were registered using the motor number as the VIN. Motors were changed often, the documentation seldom was. In Missouri if you change the motor, you are supposed to fill out a form, the owner and person who changed the motor sign it, send the form and $1 in to the state and they change it. Assuming Nevada has such a method, you might change the registration to your name in Nevada (no inspection of numbers should be needed) then once it is in your name file a similar form. You could surely find someone to put the motor in. Then your motor number would match, and you could be off and running. I'm guessing that if you start in California, you're going to be doing some pretty heavy duty work, bonded titles or whatever is offered there.

Head is about $800. I never talked to him about valve covers.